zoros

Saneagle - much appreciated - now that makes sense! Best Z

saneagle - that "moped" advert.....can't see 100Nm anywhere? Can you pick it out for me please? {PS: This advert is for a moped, it is not an Ebike]. 85 miles in one day on one charge - pull the other one. Your 42 miles with the electric switched off - of course it's possible on the flat. But where I live in the hills, absolutely no chance navigating the hills on a 28kg lump of metal for that distance.....

Apologies - the cost of the bike rack now is: £360....ouch! https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-racks/towbar-mounted-bike-racks/halfords-advanced-2-bike-towbar-mounted-bike-rack-337846.html Z

It does add up! My tow bar was £350! But I look at it as an investment! The bottom line for bike racks - call your insurance company if you are concerned about certified racks but I bet your bottom dollar - if the rack doesn't mention ebikes - and something happens - you're stuffed! Z

My experience when I was looking for a rack: 'Normally' the advert states the "static" load for the rack (IE: 45kg). But this figure is designed to take into account cornering and sideways forces too, I was told. Putting an ebike onto a normal rack is frowned upon unless the company making the rack certify it as fit to carry ebikes. The advertised loading of any bike rack MUST indicate that this rack is for ebikes also. If there is no mention of ebkie capacity - steer clear. If the rack let's go at speed and flies into the oncoming path of another car - it doesn't bear thinking about! Be interested to see if your car insurance wriggles out of that one if the rack is not certified for ebikes. I bought a tow bar rack for 2 ebiles from halfords and I absolutely love it, quick to load/unload, built in locks to the car and also to the bikes. £250. Couldn't do without it. Z

I like a good discussion! You said: Torque has no relationship to price. My turn to say 'rubbish'! You will NEVER be able to buy a new ebike with >60Nm for less than £1000. Expensive equipment is generally light, not robust. A cheap steel cassette will always outlast an expensive lightweight one. Mediocre components is the way to go if you want problem free long life. Let's agree to disagree. I keep telling you electric bikes do not have ranges. The range is determined by the rider. Ask yourself how much range does a non-electric bike have. What on earth are you on about? If I do a lot of hill climbing (especially where I live) or I want to do a 50 mile trip - I have always referred to my range remaining to determine when to call it quits. I was talking about ebike range, not normal bike range. The reason I bought the damn thing was to negotiate these steep hills and to do long distances - something I couldn't do previously without getting absolutely knackered. How many 'normal' bikers do 50 miles a trip? How many 'normal' bikers do major inclines one after the other (snowdon national park)?? If you are a professional biker or super fit then of course range doesn't matter but now I'm getting on, I can't maintain that sort of endurance without the ebike. Have you tried cycling a 23Kg push bike without assistance?? Of course range information is essential. How much does your diagnostic test cost to find the capacity of the battery? How much does it cost to service your bike compared with the zero cost that most Cyclamatics get in their lifetime? One service a year £85 all in. Includes diagnostics/battery efficiency/software updates/any gear adjustments/ brake adjustments and general condition. What is a 'cyclamatic'? Is it an asthmatic with a bike? Z

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Excellent feedback - much appreciated. But isn't it a very grey area here? Pedelec Vs Moped for that instant you need more power? Z

I'm talking disc brakes guys? Z

I'm in a bike club - an ebike club. Apart from the fact that ALL of those with bikes that cost less than £1500 have motors of 60Nm and less (most have 50Nm), the motors are from less well known manufacturers and have less robust warranties. The level of equipment is mediocre to say the least and above all else, components (like the chains/control units) have been the subject of failure too often. Like anything in life (on average), you get what you pay for. I've done 4000 miles in 3 years - apart from brake pads, nothing has ever gone wrong with my bike and it looks and feels like new. The battery is still offering over 90% capacity on the diagnostic readout. Range still varies between 85 miles on 'ECO' and 35 miles on 'TURBO'. They're no different from cars or even washing machines. My battery replacement costs are >£500. If I saw an Ebike for sale for £400....guess what?

If I am interpreting your response correctly - you are describing a moped! If a throttle 'overrides' the pedal input, IE: twist the throttle (do not pedal) and away she goes - that is a moped and not a pedelec. My brothers bike does NOT allow the bike to be propelled fwd with throttle only, the throttle ONLY works if he/she is pedalling. So I see a conflict here....the pedal input causes the electrics to assist. Alternatively - IF you are pedalling, the throttle also works to assist??? What exactly is happening here? Z

The throttle DOESN'T work withou pedal input (otherwise it would be a moped). So I say again - what is the purpose of the throttle on a pedal assist ebike? Thanks in advance Z

You get what you pay for in Ebikes. Anything less than £1500 is not going to cut it. Less than £1000 and your starting to scrape the barrel. Less than £500 - junk, I'm afraid. Z

But doesn't the pedal input do that?? Z

Thanks guys Z