Flatcap_FPV

I really dunno about that mxus hub now, i don't like the torque curve compared with the Mac 10T hub! Only real benefit to the mxus hub is +10 mile range over the mac and even that is showing 50mile on 60v18Ah which is more than enough! Even if i use the Mac 6T to comparison the mxus has a load more torque below 12mph where they both converge around 70nm, but the Mac continues to deliver way more torque after while the mxus just nose dives. The only make or break benefit i can see with the direct hub is when you actually pedal assist! +100w human on the Mac gives +10mi, yet the same on the mxus gives +35mi... Worth serious consideration if i had a sleeping bag and intended touring around the country! So my next question... Torque? 70, 90 or 115nm Ok, so 115nm is the highest torque and the obvious answer, but could you give an analogy as to what those torque levels actually are like force wise?

At least I wasn't alone thinking 20s... common sense 72v is double 36v which is 10s

Cheers dude 16s it is to keep it a more mainstream voltage... man dunno how I've got out of whack thought 72v was 20s Doesn't bode well for doing batter calcs does it haha

User manual + YouTube. I already had a read through the manual for the lcd3 thats with the kit and also watched a couple of in-depth YouTube setup videos that take you through main, P & C settings in detail. Windings and poles are on the spec sheet for the motor (failing that I can just pull the hub apart and count) Lvc I would "usually" set at 3.2v/cell for flying machines so that i dont get false lv alarm on battery sag ... but I that's a little on the low side for this application and would use a more comfortable 3.5v/cell. Again can be set on the controller, without double checking the manual i think it's total voltage... so 3.5x15 (or 16!) So an lvc of 52.5v (or 56v) Not rightly sure what the magnets are about on the hub cover (think they have something to do with speed sensing but would need that clarified) But mostly I'll do the same as any other self respecting fella... Plug it all together, throw the manual in the bin and press buttons until it works HAHA (joking lol)

But I am worrying lol. If I go with a 15s pack and can't get a BMS, that makes life awkward if I finally decide to add them! Simple Pack redesign to 16s for component availability isn't a big deal now but may have been if I had the pack built lol

Ok, another dumb ass question.... by my math a 60v battery is 15s... (4x15=60) Can't find any 15s bms, but if I search for a 60v BMS I get 16s which is 64v???? How have I managed to confuse myself!

If its little more than than discharge protection and i would be adding an inline fuse anyway since its good practice would this not sufice? But I will take your advice into consideration and have plenty of time to mull it over!

I'm good for building supplies: battery wrap card, heat shrink, xt90s, nickel strip, assorted silicone wire from 8-24awg, tab welder, ts100 iron for small work and a big old Weller 80w chisel tip for battery tabs, kapton tape etc. Insulator rings ill just punch out of wrapping card. Like I mentioned before tinkering is ma'thing. Lol. Just not used to working with large parallel banks, mainly series so I'm needing no additional equipment to build with so to speak. The only controversial thing I'm gonna say is bms's. The ones I ordered arrived so I tore one down... No way am I trusting those things to maintain a balance charge on the pack, the bleed resistors are tiny barely able to add more than a few mA loading to the cells. The batteries will be made as 20v (5s) modular packs and I will be charged and maintained off the vehicle using quality calibrated equip. However I will be adding cell/cell monitoring to keep an eye on things whilst in use. Remember that very first pack is only for proof of concept and will make sure its used heavily restricted until a 2nd pack is added.

I suppose it doesn't really matter if I do since the dropouts would be the same. I like having all the parts to hand so I can mock up and adapt as I go, just the way I prefer to work. Oh and Happy Monday btw

You wouldn't happen to have come across a kv or rpm @ ##v i can't seem to find that model or those specs... even on the MXUS site? I get the feeling that it's for a high road speed and i want torque, but if i have something to do the math with I can get a rough idea on final wheel size between 18-24" to give best balance. Tick for the frame/dropouts: diy tadpole style recumbent (Similar to Warrior diy frame) I can get custom dropouts machined easy enough if something like these Horizontal Dropouts won't do the trick? I was planning on having it laced into that optional 20" Holkammerfelge 2 rim with 2.34mm 'special' spokes... Dunno wtf that is but that sounds beefy, Right! LOL. I recall getting pretty hefty bmx (rock tyres?) back in the day i'll nip down the bike shop and have a look around. I have both a hardtail and softail option, just unsure of which will pan out... if that motor is gonna have some kick like you kinda suggest then hardtail would be better for rigidity! Tick for the brakes (kind of): I was looking at hydraulics and the larger 200 size rotors, thanks for the nudge in the right direction Batteries.... I know we have a long standing discussion on batteries... and you thought it was settled that i was gonna buy a quality premade pack from a reputable seller, yea.. nah man we're back to building a modular slab! I cant find any that even look reputable and the cheapest is still £140 more than a fully assembled diy pack, just my time to consider and aint like i'm making a living from this! I have gone over the manual and a few great youtube vids about the kt controllers and in the C settings you can restrict the max allowed current. (Like putting a restrictor plate in a bike for 33bhp ) Part 1 training wheels: Sony 18650VTC6 30A-3000mAh 18Ah 15s6p. Made up of 3 20v packs in series something like this: Part 2/3: Then add in an 18Ah block at a time when budget allows, then i can take the restrictor off. (should have room for 60Ah total) Can i tick that box and go hit buy???? c'mon, tell me i'm there... or at least close:confused:

Am i getting any closer with this MXUS XF40 kit?

Fair point, Already see the quality CS kicking in! "not recommended" was all the reply I got about running 72v. Back to the Mac motor... Was trying to keep it under the £1000 mark inc battery. Going down the Mac route is around £1200 exc rim & tyre. ps. Not trying to hide from you haha:D, was trying for a more relevant thread location!

Came across this Pedalease 2in1 kit... Apparently the controller is in the hub, just wondered if anyone has used one of these and has any feedback? Apart from the obvious downside to this setup if either the motor or controller FUBAR its gonna mean replacing the whole shabang... But it seems a reasonable price for a pedelec virgin and comes ready to go with a wheel and 20x4" fat tyre which is a another bonus for me Means i have more money to spend on a better quality/larger battery, I was also looking to run a 72v pack (assuming the controller is good to 84v)

ok... i cant keep up, im responding to something from 3 pages back. im just bumping myself! Sorry guys, i'm out

woo hold on there Tex.. I don't recall backpedaling on the HSE statement? Ok i accept that was rantish, but was solely based on my own experience and not something seen/heard elsewhere clarified by a 2nd personal account... I strongly believe it was a relevant analogy to shake the pot with. However it was only a reference point for me to join the debate and a further 20 questions to clarify the use of common sense within these new restrictions was not a relevant point... That said the people needing clarity on common sense questions which would only confuse children for the briefest of moments! Well they would probably need instruction on climbing a set of stairs to accompany the 3 points of contact rule! we are back at my first case in point. The people behind the desks can't/won't/don't think outside their tiny, little, box! I didn't have a gripe with the GM food, tbh i'm errr, 'Meh' about it! It's that our peers are being so arrogant as to refuse a trade deal with that as their excuse... " yea ok, we will import it, but..." US was our largest trading partner (last time i checked) it should have never got to this point, "sod it we'll just make do for now and sort it out after we slam that door!"... Bit late phoning home to find out ya parents have turned your old room into a sex den! #ohfudge That's potentially excusable but they wont let us (the people) decide if we want to pick it up off a shelf or not. Basic honest to goodness 'Free choice' isn't there a name for a regime like that? Or look at it another way, we've been brown nosing USA long enough... May as well lube up, get hazed and join the club! bffs New isn't always better: Valves are still prefered over modern tech for certain applications. Mag reel backups, LP's aren't going anywhere (but wtf is a Philips CDI? ) ... Old isn't always perfect either, Think of all those criminals! Compo claims for pulling their back out after a night stealing those crt tv's)... When not even the people that call themselves leaders, can suck it it for 5 mins and agree the only thing you can make with lemons is F'in lemonade, what is the point of freaking... just cross ya fingers, wait for the dust to settle! Either that or make sure you're 100% off grid by the time the door hits us in the ass! Haha