not dave

Thanks all. I was hoping somebody had done this previously on this bike, but looks like I will have to go with a battery powered light.

I have a giant fastroad e+ ex pro and was wondering if there was an easy way of adding an additional brighter front light?

Hi. I have a giant fastroad e+ ex pro. Is it possible to add an additional front light that is powered from the bike battery?

I think that might work!

Hi, Had my bike stole - it was a Whyte Dorset with a TSDZ2 motor (80 Nm torque) and a 17ah 48v battery (816 Wh). The bike was mainly used for errands and commuting, but occasionally for the longer ride (up to 35 miles, but would like capacity for a 50). My employer has a cycle to work scheme, so very tempted to go with that as you get an approx 50% saving on a new bike, so very tempting. But, those bikes look very new and expensive. I would be quite worried about leaving those bikes anywhere, I think they would turn any chiefs eye. So alternatively also considering getting a similar bike and converting myself again. A couple of questions. - What are currently considered the best motors? - Are there any systems where you can use multiple batteries? For 90% of my journeys, a small battery would be plenty, but I would want to have the opportunity for a high capacity to be added if I desired. - Are there any systems that have a small controller / display. One of my pet hates of the TSDZ2 was the stupidly big controller / display. All I need is a small display that shows battery and power level. Surely if I wanted a larger screen, I could use my phone as a display connected via bluetooth. - Are there any bikes that are considered great donor bikes? I am thinking particularly on frame strength and the gearing used. The Dorset and similar bikes use 11-32, which when you have a single chainring on the front is much narrower than the 10-51 you now see on some electric touring bikes. PS, I am also posting a thread in the electric bikes forum asking what would be a good of the peg replacement for the Whyte Dorset.

Hi, it seemed that the crank arm was of a softer metal than the shaft. When it loosened the damage was done to the inside of the crank arm meaning that after re-tightening it constantly became loose again. I have found these are good hex keys for tightening:- https://www.toolstation.com/draper-expert-soft-grip-t-handle-hex-key-set/p49663

From reading up on greases, the silverhook moly cv lithium grease seems like what I need. Please let me know if I am being an idiot!

Thanks dwvl. One more question - what grease should I use? Would lithium grease like this be OK? https://www.toolstation.com/lithium-grease/p89691 Or would moly grease be better? https://www.toolstation.com/silverhook-moly-grease-tube/p27520 Looking for something I hopefully can get in Toolstation or Screwfix. PS, I will hopefully be replacing the blue gear with a metal one. EDIT I see Mobilgrease recommended in a few places (a red lithium grease). Would that be better? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mobil-Mobilith-Lithium-Cartridge-MOB-149612-1/dp/B00FJYEJJ0/ref=dp_prsubs_2?pd_rd_i=B00FJYEJJ0&psc=1

I need to fit a metal gear to replace the blue one. First step is removing the crank from the non-drive side, the central bolt is easily removed, but the crank remains attached. What is the correct method for removing the crank? Also while one got the bike on the stand im looking to tidy up the wires. What is the correct route of the wires to the display unit? When I originally fitted the kit, I fitted the motor first and there was no room to put the wires under the bottom bracket, so I have put them on the side of the bottom bracket (second picture).

Ps, here's a short video of the noise the TSDZ2 makes when i put some pressure on the pedals. Any idea what this fault is?

What are they like to ride? when I was looking at kits last year mid drive motors seemed to be more recommended as they were more ‘natural’ to ride. But... your statement that they are more reliable does get me interested... I am about 100kg and would like to ride as quick as possible. I am in Cardiff and just a little north of me at some pretty steep hills, though only some of my rides are in that direction.

Hi vfr. issues were around reliability. A crank failed, the charger failed and now the motor has stopped working and is making a noise when I pedal and not producing any power. Riding is all on road and general commuting / leisure riding. Bike is a Whyte Dorset, with a rear pannier rack. I’ll take some photos in the morning. The battery is currently only attached on the two bottle fixing screws. I’ll chat with the local bike shop to see if they can add another further up the tube.

Hello, I bought a TSDZ2 kit last year and while the performance has been great, there have been number of issues. What alternatives to the TSDZ2 are there that I can re-use the same battery (a 48v 17.5 ah Samsung downtube battery)? I am particularly keen to get a kit with a small / discreet display. Also, is it possible to fit the downtube battery on a rear rack? The battery seems to be too heavy for the supplied plastic mount and despite adding cable ties and rubber tubing to damp the vibrations, the mount still flexes side to side. I appreciate that moving the battery up and back will slightly affect the handling, but i am quite heavy myself (~100kg).

Unfortunately there isn't that wide a choice on Amazon given the dimensions... E.g. the on linked by Altea4 has a max size of 6.3 x 3.74 inches. In imperial the phone in the case is approx 6.5 x 3.6 x 0.6 The main issue being the the extra thickness. When i tried a couple of top tube bags in the lbs the naked phone fitted easily, but once in its case there was no chance. All of the phone holders i have seen on Amazon are of a similar size.

Hi, I am looking for a Handlebar or top tube bag that has a clear phone holder large enough for a large phone (iPhone Xr in an Otterbox defender case). Dimensions of phone in case is approx 165 x 90 x 15 mm. Has anybody see one suitable?