Footie

We have tried it, now the EU whats to change the rules and the rules don't suit us (as a democratic country), so we should leave. I cannot believe the BS propaganda I have to watch every time the news comes on, the remain group getting 20 minutes air time while the leave get less than 5 minutes of air time. Unbiased Government controlled news reporting at its best. With all the threats and ravings aside, the two issues that are the most important (to me) cannot be resolved by staying in the EU. Immigration cannot be controlled under EU laws and rules. The EU is not democratic. If we do leave then the government should resign, as they clearly do not support an independent UK or the will of the people.

Have you checked out the powacycle website? They appear to have a page listing replacement batteries. http://www.powacycle.co.uk/products.asp?cat=50 E-BikesDirect seem to list batteries, personally never bought from them. http://www.e-bikesdirect.co.uk/Item/Electric_Bike_Batteries/PowaCycle_Battery/PowaCycle_Battery_Lithium-Ion__26V_-_13Ah.aspx Seems this has been discussed before by another owner. http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/battery-info-for-powacycle-windsor.18008/

I see. Just did a quick search on the Internet and found a site that suggested the ideal crank size for someone my height (5ft 8inch) is 167.5mm to 170mm. Having a normal body length but short legs, I have difficulty setting the seat height to the optimum height, so I have to compromise by setting it slightly higher. This is so I get good power for climbing hills ... which I have plenty of here Only problem is, I am on tip-toe when stopped at traffic lights and junctions, unless I get out of the seat. In truth, I think a slightly shorter crank would help to reduce the problem, giving me a good leg length on the bike while allowing more foot contact with the ground (due to a reduced seat height). I can see why these things can fuel interest and become thought provoking

Had a successful test of my new battery today, cycled 9 miles with no power cut-outs and I still had power in the battery when I got home. Admittedly, I could have gone further but my legs are a bit weak at cycling at moment, as I have not cycled for well over 18 months. Hopefully, now I have a decent battery on my electric bike that will improve. My goal was to have a working range of about 10 miles (5 miles there & 5 miles back), it would seem I now have that ... Just what I wanted The cranks are 170mm (center to center), as originally supplied. Why do you ask?

My new bottle battery arrived yesterday, so today I set to work fitting it to my electric bike. I opted to fit the battery behind the seat, as it was before. Clearance is tight, so I have had to remove the original rear battery rail, as it was taking up valuable space needed for getting the new bottle battery in and out. In it's place I have fitted a narrow length of aluminum sheet, which is the full width of the frame. This will serve three purposes, firstly, it allows me to use the original fixing holes of the battery rail (so no new holes). Secondly, it gives me a good fixing surface for the battery, allowing higher fitment, which is necessary for the required clearance under the battery to access the plug and switch. Thirdly, it will act as a deflecting shield to help protect the battery against the wet and crud being thrown up by the back wheel. I was reluctant to disturb the original wiring, so I have used some semi soft rubble disks to attach the battery wires to the original SLA battery connecting pins, that stick out of the bottom frame. I have then hot-glued some plastic caps over the pins, then hot-glued all around them to seal tight to keep out the wet, dirt, etc. I carried out a short test run up the road and all works OK. Battery is now on it's first full charge. Weather permitting, I will test it out properly tomorrow

Tested my electric bike today, on a circular route of 2.5 miles, twice. Unfortunately, on the second trip the pulsing started at about 1/2 mile from home. So for some unknown reason I have a range limit of about 4.5 miles. Battery was reading 37.7 volts when I got home. I hate to admit it but this seems to point to a power loss under load and likely an issue with the batteries in the pack. After some thought I have decided, if I am going to fork out another £100 for three SLA batteries then I might as well spend a further £75 and buy myself a 36v 10Ahr lithium-ion bottle battery. So one is now on order

Tested my electric bike at a slightly greater distance last Sunday but I had some problems with "pulsing" power. It started after about 2 miles out. The entire trip was only 6 miles (in total) but the last 2 miles were a nightmare, I was down to a crawl, I even had to change right down to first gear to be able to keep moving. The battery was at 37.5 volts when I got home, it was 39.5 volts at the start. Searched on the internet and found someone with similar problems, which was caused by the sensors in the brakes intermittently cutting power. I did adjust the breaks before the second trip, so I have checked them over and readjusted them, even fitted a new cable adjuster. I am Hoping to try the bike again over the weekend. Fingers crossed it will work OK.

Managed to test out my new SLA 9Ahr battery today. Nothing serious, just a short (close to home) run. Rode it (gently) into town and back (2 mile round trip), handled the steep hills without a hitch. I am still able to ride it on the flat without power, pleased about that, as I had a worry the added weight might make it too heavy. Battery took 50 minutes to charge back up and the charged voltage was 39.9v. I will now start increasing the range to see what I have. Seems everything is working fine with my rejuvenated E-bike, so far

It seems there are a number of 48v batteries about these days, 36v used to be the tops a few year ago, technology dose not stand still. Rebuilding my battery has rekindled my interest in E-bikes generally and yesterday I found a nicely priced 36v bottle battery. My kit e-bike has never had a battery of its own, a bottle battery would be perfect for it and it would mean I would be able to finally use it out on the open road. In comparing the two against each other, the weight of the SLA battery aside, I think the kit E-bike would likely give me a better range (even at 36v). It is far lighter than the be-spoke E-bike for starters, so the rider will be able to input more, while saving on battery power. Regeneration used to be popular, not sure if it still is. My be-spoke E-bike has regeneration in the back wheel (built in dynamo), while this is fine for flat areas it has been a pain here in hilly Cornwall. An E-bike without regeneration will clearly run a lot freer and potentially have a greater range in hilly environments (IMO). I will be interested to know what you do in the end

Before I comment, let me say I have been out of the electric bike circuit for a few years, so I am not up to speed on modern advances. I have an old (9 year old) heavy MTB electric bike. I also have a second electric bike, which is a kit on my 30 year old mountain bike but it has never left the shed, other than a short run up the road and back. I am also based in beautiful Cornwall and sadly the rolling Cornish hills have been killers for my electric bike batteries. Admittedly I am only a leisure rider but that has also meant my bikes have lasted well due to low usage. I have had different batteries over the years but all have fallen by the wayside due to the mighty Cornish hills. My originally electric bike came with 7Ahr SLA batteries, which gave me a range of around 10 miles, at first. After about 8 months of light usage they started to fail and when the range dropped to 7 miles I switched to a li-po4. Sadly, my eye watering £250 li-po4 battery only gave me a range of 18 miles, due to the Cornish hills. The li-po4 has served me well but it too has now died and I just can't see the point of paying out several hundred pounds for a replacement li-po4 battery again. Instead I have spent around £100 and switched back to SLA but increased the power by going for 9Ahr SLA. I have yet to fully test the new set-up but in reality I am not looking for a massive range, I know the hills will kill my battery, all I need is a range of about 10 miles to do all I want, 5 miles there and 5 miles back Anything further and I will use the car.

Hi Flecc, Thanks for the welcome back I had a quick look but couldn't find a Gallery, possibly not looking hard enough. Is there a thread for showing off ones pride and joy? If not then here is a picture of my Cougar Mountain Electric Bike. I am aware the seat post it now very close to the top of the battery, it is wound right up to stop the seat hitting it , only when I get to ride it will I know if there is a problem. I may have to modify the bike (a little) and remove the spring suspension altogether, still very much work in progress

Hi all, just dropped in to say hello. Been a good while since I posted or visited the forum. My electric bike battery died a few years ago and with a replacement costing several hundred pounds I just couldn't justify the high cost for leisure cycling, so the bike has been shed bound and gathering dust. Not been keeping up with the world of electric bikes but it seems the batteries are still as expensive as they were. I finally decided that I would convert my bike back to SLA but the battery case was too short for the present day batteries, so I have had to modify the battery case to fit the standard 12V 9Ah SLA batteries. Today I finally got around to getting things sorted and the bike has been out on the road testing the new battery pack. With the test run OK I then recharged the pack, which also worked OK. This afternoon I have carried out the finishing touches to the pack (sealing, smoothing edges, etc) and it is now ready to go, although it does need a quick spray of paint to make it look a bit there after. Due to work it is unlikely I will be able to test it any more until next weekend but looking forward to being back out on the road on my nine year old electric bike

I have not been active on here for a long time, sadly, not been cycling much either. I decided the other day to use my Couger MTB e-bike. Originally it was powered by a 36v SLA battery but I had a li-po4 battery made for it., it's only used for leisure riding. I attempted to charge the battery but I could not get it to charge up fully (charger lights would not go green). I decided to tested the e-bike out and all worked ok. I came back home and attempted to charge the battery again but the battery would not take any charge at all. Removed the top of the battery and can see the fuses have melted, so I have possibly had a battery meltdown. Had a quick look at the new suppliers and things have moved on since I bought my MTB. I do like my MTB bike (she's a beast) but I paid close to £250 for my li-po4 battery, not really wanting to fork out for another expensive battery again. Thinking it may be best to put it back to SLA, sell it and look for something newer. Anyone able to advise, on what cheap options are available these days, for batteries or sources for replacements internals? Thanks in advance.

I've added my name to the petition. I've never been on the Ryde but I once went on the Waverley. It was my Dad's idea to go and he sprung it on me. It was the first time I had ever gone out to sea at night on a boat. Could hardly feel any sway at all. I can still remember the coloured shore lights in the darkness, big-band music playing, sipping a beer and trying to figure out where the hell we were The trip left me with some priceless memories (wow - that was over thirty years ago). These classic ladies are definitely worth saving. Waverley Excursions - Home .

Eddie F posted: If i ride at more than 15mph am i liable to be pulled for speeding. Affecting my driveing licence? when i used to ride a standard bike i would normaly ride an average of 20mph. thanks. Eddie My road going MTB style ebike is still giving me a little push at 16mph and that’s how it came out of the box. So I regularly cruse at 15-16mph. flecc posted: I've personally ridden downhill on an e-bike at 45 mph (in an urban area) and some of our members are part of our unofficial "over 50 mph" club, only just though. I have tried and tried but can't get over 30mph down hill on my ebike (got 29mph once). The regeneration in the back wheel acts like a brake .... I would love to be like you lot of lawbreakers ----------------------------------------------- Bike #1 Cougar Mountain Electric Bike 36v 200w rear wheel Hub motor (Jul07), 10 Ah LiFePo4 battery (Apr08) Maximum range (road/hills - Cornwall) 18 miles. Maximum range (on flat) 25 miles Bike #2 20 year old 18 gear mountain bike 36v 500w Goldenmotor front hub motor (Jun 09), 9 AH DIY rack-pack or 15 AH SLA (depending on trip). Used off road .