tim25

oh ,very interesting thanks Flecc

LOL.. ive been through the 36 wiring combos on a previous bike, still got the chart somewhere. Also good point about the cadence issue, and i cant buck the voltage down because the 24v desired would be too low for my 36v controller. hmm, more thought required

Thanks everyone for your helpful suggestions! Im a little dissapointed that the verdict is not looking good for the flyers future! Im not looking to invest alot of money into it and may have to gracefully bow out... shame because it looks so well put together. But not too sad as i like lots of the parts and i paid very little for it and I still will get to play around with an interesting piece of e biking history...I look forward to opening up the motor and seeing how it works? My heart is still set on my possibly crazy home made mid drive system, I currently ride an overvolted hub drive which i enjoy alot. The parts like the Handlebar Stem twist function looks like it will be useful for small living spaces. + 2 very smooth running wheels with marathon plus tyres! and a load of other parts for my fantasy future home built bicycles. Many thanks every one for your contributions! I may return with more qustions yet like .. Is it a ridiculous idea to try and hook up a spare 36 volt KT hub motor controller to the phase wires and hall sensor wires and see if it goes? I dont even know if its brushless or brushed?

Thanks for your reply’s, with both the model name nealh and voltage types flecc. Any ideas if I ’ll blow the controller with 36v? Seems an unusual voltage to get a 26v battery, unusual normally is expensive! Perhaps I could stick a buck converter on my 36 volt battery to lower the voltage.

I recently purchased a Swiss Flyer Bicycle needing a battery and some restoration. I can't find any Markings on it and I don't know what model it is. My guess is that its from about 2012, It has some nice components like a mid drive motor, magura hydraulic rim brakes, alfine /nexus geared hub and a speed lifter twist headset. Its a strange looking bike but it looks to have some potential to me. I dont even know how many volts it takes. My research suggest that some of them worked on a panasonic 26V system and some on 36 volts, any one got any ideas what this is or how i can find out? Ive got a spare generic 36 v battery and am keen to plug it in and see, but dont want to blow the controller straight away...

Nealh, Thanks i will try that with a pedal sensor when im back, i will also look to see if i can find the pictures of the inside suspect wiring. to me they looked dark and heated, possibly burned! rather than shiny and new like my Suntour motor. sanaagle your right, i didnt want to force it as i was a bit unsure? it went in a long way but not quite to the end, it was so tight!! I had read that they could look very similar but not be the same maybe there could be 2mm more to push, I wonder is there a best practice way to clean / lubricate the pins ? i was thinking disconect and apply wd40 and a gentle toothbrush for example?

i will look into the hall sensor tests later as i have done that before with a previous project (on/ off 5v as i turn the wheel) or somthing, will re check previous instructions

oops i realise i must have added and posted on a new account by mistake as this is my normal account on my old pc, and a new one on my ipad as sculpturetim, manythanksf oryour reply to sculpture tim

Thanks for your reply, imglad to hear its possible. i am powering it through a throttle shown in photos bought with the controller, but i am geting no reaction on the display when i twist it, i have followed p and c settings from u tube to get throttle to activate the motor at all times.

no it came apart ok once i had soaked it in light oil due to being completely stuck due to dirt first removed the sprocket, then the axel nuts, perhaps the circlip in the free hub body, cant remember exactly as a while ago but ended up removing the whole top plate of the motor and removing the motor from the hub and the free hub came straight off after screws have come out, i do have photos of the process

KT-V12L Dual Hall Sensor 12 Signals Easy Assembling Left Installation PAS Wuxing 130X thumb throttle Original Motor and battery from a carrera subway ebike

This is the controller settings i am using with the Suntour hesc motor Kt lcd4 display Kt controllerT09S 36V/48V image attached shows my p and c settings, im not an expert but it is working well

Thanks for the advice

Hi VFR400, thanks , i will hunt around on endless sphere also for info on the controller. I think open source firmware feels beyond me. I believe i have seen cylinder shaped things looking like a compacitor with 63v on them inside the controller. perhaps ill have to stick with the 54.6 max charge im using now, Ive seen some step down buck convertors that will reduce 60v to 54v, just trying to avoid spending any more money and use what ive allready got, as i said before it seems to be working quite well and im enjoying it so far. i did read about one guy who used something called a schottky diode or similar name to avoid tranfer form battery to battery. Do it take it that when used in series voltage variation is not a problem ? apart from the allready discussed lack of low voltage cut off problem and draining the battery too low

Update: Halfords did supply me with a new motor cover plate with the free hub attached. a doddle to fit. and swapped out the large bearing on the other side of motor, all seems to work ok... im very happy to be able to fix it! On the whole “Halfords” and “moore and large” (their parts supplier) were very helpful, Although I did need to push the process along a bit. And join the dots for them. “Suntour” were completely useless! I now get about 18mph ish with the new kt controller. I have had to move the new controller onto the rear rack because its too large to fit in the original frame space. i think the controller T09S 36V/48V450W-500W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller is drawing more amps than the stock battery bms can provide so the system is turning off. If i turn it back on and go easy on the throttle and limit to PAS 4 it will go very well and does not switch off. Ive tried messing with the max amps in the C settings but the result doesn’t seem any better. (Seems to cut the power to motor instead of switching off)but still loses power. Ive had a plan to use my 18v Makita tool battery packs to power the bike for a while now as I have several and they all seem good with a built in bms and fast charger. I already have the stock 36 volt / 8.5ah battery and have added a booster battery in series to add a further 12v using a 20 amp buck converter to step down the voltage from 18v giving me 54v total ( 12v + 42v ) top bike kit recommended highest voltage to be 54.6v for this controller 54v this gives me a great boost in power and speed up to about 23-24mph max (for private road use) Questions : 1: I have read many threads saying using 2 batteries of different voltage is very bad and will ruin both batteries! Whats the verdict here? 2: What is the best way to monitor the battery using a multi-meter to find out whats actually going on in use? I have a power level indicator on all batteries so have been monitoring them to not let either run out. I have been charging both at the same time with its own charger and with the principle that the booster will run out first ( picture shows 2 boosters in paralell on back rack but ive found 1 works best)and I will charge them at the same time before the booster gets too low. ive tried a low voltage alarm but cant access the individual cells on the tool batteries so only can show the total of 12v on the alarm display. 3: Do you agree the maximum voltage would be 54.6 allowable on the KT T09S 36V/48V450W-500W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller. Could I push it to 60v? That would allow me to use 3 x 18v Makita batteries as my main battery)( max v 60v charged)? Or would this be too risky to blow the controller?