DennisTheMenace

I am happy to read your advice, I'm not happy with you trying to belittle people who have less knowledge in this area than you have, even if you are trying to make a joke. As Thumper said "If you can't say soimething nice, don't say anything at all."

I've checked the voltage on the charger socket on the battery. It was initiall 0.65V then 0. I took saneagle's advice and cut a jack plug off of one of the many old chargers that I should take to the recycle centre - see picture ) (ha! this one did come in handy, about 10 years after I stopped using it) [i'd put reflective tape on the end of the battery - one small step in trying to get cars behind me to see me.] So is the next step to source a jack socket, open up the battery, and replace the socket?

Can someone tell me how I can test if the jack socket in the battery is working or not?

I fail to see how this helps me, I have already been given this advice.

So.. I measured the voltage across the charger connection, and it is 40V ( expected 36, but that is a different issue). To me that means the charging cable is OK after all, and the "wiggling" is just a "red herring"/coincidence / something for me to blame. As for "switch on your charger before putting the jack into the battery", I usually do NOT do that. I usually plug the charger into the battery, then turn on the charger. No particular reason for doing it in that order, it just felt a better way to do it. Is it possible that the issue is with the jack socket in the battery? If so, do you know how I can fix that? I would assume that I can get a replacement part, but I have not looked into that yet.

So now..... The charger is ALWAYS showing these lights again A while ago, it woudl show the red and green lights, but after wiggling connection to the battery, it shows 2 green lights, and the battery would charge. I'm thinking that inside the cable, either one or both of the wires near the battery connection have been moved so much that they have broken, or at least stretched so much that there is not enough wire left to transfer a charge. Is it a simple process to openupo the cable, cut out the "dead" wires, and solder then ends together? Or can I get a new connection end? How do I even categorise the end? I know the polarity of the connection and voltage and amps but I'd need a micrometer to measure the diameter of the outer and inner of the connector. Is there a shop that sells connectors, or even a connector and cable? (Can't see it on RS Online or Maplin.) I'm capable of opening up the charger, and replacing the battery-side cable.

SO... I bought a digital volt meter. But before I started fiddling about, I pressed the lights on the battery, and... they all lit up ... Whack The Frog!!! I put the battery back in the holder and it powered the bike. When the battery went down, I charged it up again, and all is OK! I didn't even get the volt meter out of the box. If I read this (rather than wrote this) I'd say "User error", but I know what I saw, and I am at a loss *?* Oh well, it works, and that is the main thing. Thanks all for your help and suggestions; it it goes wrogn again, I've some steps to pursue.

I have a 2019 Pendleton which I bought new from Cycle Rebublic. Yesterday when I connected it to the battery, and plugged it in it showed one red ligth and one green light. I know that the battery needed charging. as it ran out yesterday. This morning, the lights ar the same, but the bettery is not charged. When pressing the "show charge" button , no lights show up. I do not have the know-how to open and test the charger. Question - do I just but a new charger? This site looks like a good choice: https://ebikebatteries.co.uk - £40 including shipping MUCH cheaper than Halfords - £80 but I can get 15% discount, so £68

For background see "Pendleton Somerby Electric Bike (Dec 2019) Battery fully charged but no power to wheel " I think that the hub sensor need fixing on my Pendleton Somerby Electric Bike. But which bike shop in/near Ipswich should I go to? Anyone have an opinion? This is a list of cycle shops/repairers in/near Ipswich: Spokeworx Pedal Power Cycles Halfords Evans Cycles Elmy Cycles Cycle Revolution Bicycle Doctor

Thanks for your help. There are no loose wires within the housing, all connectors apppear to be fully connected, no misalignment with the arrows. From reading Sturmey's post, I am thinking that it is the hub sensor that may be at fault.

Thanks for your help. There are no additional flashing lights. There is a 'walk assist' thumb button function on the bike. Pushing it turned the back wheel. from what you said it sounds like the pedal sensor is not working properly. Do you know how I can test that?

Thank you for your reply. I will check and get back to you.

Thank you for your reply. I will check and get back to you.

I have a Pendleton Somerby Electric Bike, bought in Dec 2019. One morning this week, the power no longer went to the wheel. There are a full 4 lights on the controller, so I can see that the battery is fully charged. The cable from the battery has come out a bit (the grommet is now outside the battery housing), no idea why. Any clues as to what the prblem could be? My initial though is that there is a loose cable inside the battery housing, not the cable that goes to the controller, but the one to the wheel. When I get a couple of free hours I will (attempt) to open up the casing, check hte connections (if I can see/recognise them) and reseat the grommet.