thelarkbox

Very Similar situation this end. Fwiw circa 3 years ago i fitted a yose-power rear wheel kit conversion to my el-cheapo 'ladies' step thru (see icon) . I had preconceived ideas and m/cycle experience that gave me false twist n go expectations.. so the full power until speed cap hit assistance took some getting used to.. Now 3 years on i still can be caught with a silly grin when returning from a shopping trip rolling uphill with ease.. last week i returned without assistance to see how it was..- a light shop - but still easier to pedal uphill than i remembered from preconversion runs..;) Yes more sophisticated solutions exist but circa 100kg of me and a good haul from the supermarket is not a problem for the basic yose kit. As long as exchanging a rear tyre is within your wheelhouse fitting a conversion kit is little more than that with additional bolt ons and cable management. a chilled evening/ warm afternoon task Source a fully featured (good brakes) Comfortable 2nd use bargain bike from a hand me down or ebay etc and a £600 budget will get you a bike and conversion kit that suits you with a reliable but basic assistance system, with cash to spare in all probability.. Then If after ridding the bike you find the basic system lacking, you can make informed upgrades fixing what needs it or you may like me just adapt to the way the bike works. Or if then worthwhile exploit the ride to work scheme buying the bike with features you need and appreciate, rather than buying blind on advice now ending up with something not quite right. However you get it I Hope you enjoy your ebike as much i have enjoyed mine, and happy recovery..

+1 for the orange paddle arm. If you want further attention I would think cheap and replaceable (£shop or ali express ) rear bike light perhaps even upgraded with an orange tape covering?? If the paddle and cheap flashing led light gets hit - its a £ or 2 to replace... and more importantly NOT YOU or the bike..

Google supplied this manual ?

No harm in adding a passive voltage display just be mindful to select one that is powered via its reading connections and can handle the voltage .. if in doubt post links of what your considering. shouldn't cost more than a few quid. Most options are probably 'panel mount' - Most hdpe containers can be cut with scissors and pressed flat with an iron ( and non stick sheets/baking parchment) for a diy 'panel you can cable tie to handlebars ;)

You can expend some frustration composing gripes of non case related nuisances you encounter for posting i guess.. - that's probably the best therapy available considering your 'stipend' for duty.. Cant promise to read em all tho.. Chin up, n all that..

I mass closer to 100kg than i would care to admit. My approaching 3 yr old conversion using the cheapest yose rear wheel kit, is still capable of putting a silly grin on my face as i switch on the motor-assistance leaving the supermarket. If anything i am surprised at the power available from the kit, yes when i hit hills and slopes and if they continue for longer than 1/4-1/2 a mile in distance, there is a significant 'performance' hit and my input becomes more crucial, but pre conversion i was puffin and panting or pushing the bike soooo much sooner..

Im sure you dont have to look far for perfect examples of unsuitable for jury duty citizens to emulate for the morning of selection?? It all boils down to how much pride you can swallow in a single dose ;) A diy judges wig and black hanky cap might sell it..

And this guy isnt another russian mouthpiece?? convenient how he drops an 'alleged' when he comes close to validating the state of war as a result of the russian invasion! while probably not getting the rubles yet he sure sounds eager for em. you see all the 'fake news' outlets and legal bods have probably done background work and are aware of the russian migration of infiltrators that have flooded areas of east ukraine for decades, creating 1000's of dodgily documented east ukrainians many who remained in place to achieve the pretence for the invasion, but many also who then migrated further,, Something your man has not even bothered to read up on let alone dismiss.. EDIT: my qualifications for speaking about Ukraine are heritage and about 6 months spent over there since 97.

The golden rule as mentioned above is to always source controllers and their matching displays together to avoid the inevitable communication problems attempting to match 2 dissimilar systems. The installed firmware can differ within a single brand, as many systems are 'personalised' with brand logo's and flash screens etc for customer brands ie yose etc. - a nightmare many of us have stumbled blind into before finding places like this ;) displays will generally have: 1) a +ve battery voltage wire often coloured red, 2) a lock-signal wire often coloured blue, with SOME systems shorting this with the red +ve battery voltage in wire can start the controller headless with throttle control. - and could brick controllers not employing this feature.. 3) a black ground -ve terminal, 4,5) a pair of Rx (receive) , and TX (transmit) wires, for communication of input settings and the display metrics, error codes etc. 6th wire??? Motor temp sensor? , Direct speed sensor input? lighting circuit? there are a few possibilities.. 1000w while not usually the metric used to classify controllers (usually the peak amp output ie 15A, 20A etc is the metric more generally used . It suggests your bike? is outside the scope of this forum for specific advice ( pedelecs ie 250w max rated motor ..). For more general EV discussions with more specialist emoped e-m/cycle focused expertise the https://endless-sphere.com/sphere site could be more useful. If i have misread the situation however and your just overamping your bike for kicks n giggles not limited by regs btw, or if its for a bike to ride on your own land wink wink,, feel free to post details and pics of your bike and problems..

+1 for the multimeter, once in your toolkit you will find it useful in many ways.. some dont even need the intimidating dial that know one fully understands when first getting one;) and will automatically work out what your measuring and apply the relevant metric and scale ta-da!! But i will mention that being able to turn the dial to the one or two settings you understand ok with a determined click will make all the ladies go weak at the knees ;) Joking aside reading the battery's actual voltage with a meter rather than the guestimate displayed on the display ( could be accurate? but??) is generally default check number one when looking at any issues. And can after a full charge be a very good indicator of the battery status.

Other than a couple of cable ties to fix loosing a front or rear carry box due to collisions (it happens too frequently in the city - tourist!!) and a carry bag which can double up as a 'glove' if i suffer a chain loss - less frequent.. - nowt. Anything else would just end up extra luggage to lug about and watch over ie get left in the bank or wherever.. All my trips are however within an hours walk from home so while a pita not the end of the world should i get a flat.. A broken chain (unlikely) would be no problem thanks to the el cheapo cadence based pas sensor ;) yay e-bikes!!

I would agree with @D8veh above, if a web purchase i would seriously consider cancelling the hallfords battery, you could buy a complete conversion kit from yose for the same sort of money.. If concerned about the diy fix with more generic parts, drop a few pics of your bike , battery, controller, and motor connections so a smooth sailing job mainly of cable management can be confirmed ;)

Ran through with my bikes specs (step through cargo-ish style 700c wheels..) The downtube battery option was unavailable, while perhaps not suitable for all bikes in this category, certainly would and does work with mine see icon pic.. *although did require a couple of rivnuts fitting.. Otherwise Thumbs up, the concise descriptions and explanations all made good sense ..

Your charger is a plastic box containing solid state circuitry so as long as it both works and no conductive/metalic elements are touchable through the case crack i would breath easy and chill. A wide roll of electrical pvc tape can bandage the box securely. While caution with all things electrical is certainly a healthy starting point especially battery related ;) In my opinion as a qualification free armchair expert ;) Not so much warranted in this case. You may wish to check that a 3-5a fuse is fitted in the plug and not a 13a job, just so if the charger develops a fault and attempts to short circuit the fuse will blow earlier.. If the rattling about was anything other than case fragments the chances of the charger working are highly improbable. Granted a daily shake to confirm the rattle still exists could lead to future damage in some circumstances so would be best avoided, but beyond ensuring all cables are secured and gripped well and the electronics are not exposed to probing fingers, and avoiding unnecessary shaking, I would suggest your good to go.. And dont drop it again if possible ;)

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0378/5506/8295/files/C500_manual.pdf?v=1679586295 If your display wont provide access to the settings you require check with yose support you have the correct controller/display. my own 250w kit is supplied with hobbled f/w that prevents setting anything beyond display metrics, but iirc member @cadence has both 250w yose and 350w kits installed on bikes and has confirmed his 350 controller/display combo on the 350w installation IS NOT Hobbled in the same fashion as the 250w kit display.