SkyMonkey

I've only had this one two months. Bit too soon to throw it out! I am still curious as to how changing the rotor/stator made such a difference to [mention=10894]Deere John[/mention] and his BBS01B. What makes a BBS01B not a BBS02B? i.e. Does the 500W come from the rotor/stator or the controller, or both? What would a BBS02B be like with a volt matched BBS01B controller on it? The rest is just gearing, right?

I think I set throttle to Current. As I said though, I probably did something wrong. There was literally nothing from the throttle when walking with the bike. So I'll try again soon to look at the settings again. Cheers [mention=33660]guerney[/mention].

So, a week late, but I've tried your settings [mention=33660]guerney[/mention] and tested them over my first extended ride (28 miles). I probably did something wrong! The PAS 0 assist setting I used to assign to the throttle was 100% current/24% speed. But neither the PAS 0 setting (pedalling) or the throttle did anything. Other settings I changed, like 100% keep current and 100% speed across all other PAS levels did work though. That made the pedalling cadence thing better, to the point where I think I can live with them (for a while anyway). I'll try 40% speed setting on PAS 0, and if that doesn't work, tinker with assigning PAS 1 instead. The controller seems quite conservatively restricted (12A max), so maybe PAS 0 is always 0 to this controller.

Is this the handlebar display you have [mention=43790]shirty3836[/mention]? Shown in this YT vid @ 2:15. I assume you meant "Fallowgate wiring" being proprietary wiring connectors made by the now dissolved company 'Fallowgate', as mentioned in the linked website. The YT vid doesn't really show any of the wiring, so pics would be helpful. Then someone with more nouse than me (like [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention]) can recommend compatible replacements. https://allensebikes.co.uk/batribike-electric-bicycles/

Why is this?

Cheers [mention=33660]guerney[/mention]. I'll have a go at trying your method later today.

The 500C controller does have the option to 'Walk' the bike at 6 kph by holding in the "-" button on the display. But it requires quite a hard and continuous press on the button to keep it working. My old and arthritic thumb can't maintain the pressure needed! So it's pretty annoying that I know it can do it, but only by that method (so far).

I think I am going to go down the re-programming route this weekend. Hopefully that will help with the problems I'm experiencing. I did some tweaks when I first installed the motor, but having ridden for a month, there is definitely room for improvement. And I'll screenshot this time so I know what I did. I'll look at Keep Current for power at the top cadences (cheers [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] ). Also, manoeuvring in slow traffic is quite jerky, so I'll be looking at the Pedal Assist tab 'Start' and 'Stop' settings (cheers [mention=33660]guerney[/mention]). 100% speed all though the PAS levels now seems more logical to me now too. But I've all but given up on setting the throttle to a legal 6 kph. I would like it as an option for walking a fully loaded bike around easily. Again, I can't remember how I tried to set it, but it's too fast and going up the gears ups the speed proportionately too. Any advice on that would be welcome. Cheers guys (and guy-esses?). A full review and pics of the E-Sutra is coming soon BTW, I promise.

Sram 7 speed cassettes are still available in the UK. They won't have the same choice of quality that their 10/11/12 speed cassettes have, but I always had good experiences with them in the past. This one is 12-32: https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/sram/pg-730-7-speed-cassette-709518#colcode=70951803 A larger chainring would help too for lower cadence pedalling. The one on that bike looks none too large.

I am going off the published specs for the Bafang BBS series, as posted by Deere John:

Hi [mention=33660]guerney[/mention] That would be a cheap solution. But I also ride an 'acoustic' carbon road bike, so the 'twiddle' is somewhat ingrained in me too. The gearing is slanted to high torque/low(ish) speed, with a 42 chainring and 11-34 9-speed cassette. I used to ride this bike a few years ago for fully loaded pannier touring with a triple chainring. Anyway, economy and common sense go out of the window when 'perfection' may be attainable. Plus, I am really enjoying this DIY E-Bike thing. It has re-invigorated my lifelong love of bikes, and got me back on the other 'normal' bikes stowed away for so long in the cellar. I'm a born tinkerer. Not sure how a throttle would help in this situation [mention=12031]soundwave.[/mention] I have one installed but it is set as close to a 'walking' throttle as possible (and may go completely). What I want is to 'cycle' naturally, not just push a button. The problem is the BBS01B 'power band' is too low in the rpm range for me. A BBS02B would really have been the best option, but I have to stay legal for my job. My other hope for someone who had tried this was [mention=9639]Raboa[/mention], but judging by his earlier post he never took the plunge.

Well, I have searched the net for any advice and everything I find is slanted towards either: Getting a BBS02B instead. Adding more volts (as [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] recommended). Using a 36v stator/rotor kit (also as [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] recommended). Or turning the BBS01B effectively into a BBS02B with both a controller and stator/rotor change. I really do wish [mention=10894]Deere John[/mention] was still active (lord knows I've dropped his name enough times!). I think I will go ahead and try just a new stator/rotor kit to begin with and report back. If no joy, then try the BBS02B controller too. As he pointed out, the casing is where the voltage and wattage are stamped (for apparent legality). I'm not willing to mess around with voltage changes, so all will be at 48v.

Hi [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention]. I am not trying to explain anything. I am referencing & quoting [mention=10894]Deere John[/mention], and asking questions to help my understanding. Have you read the whole thread I linked in my first post? I have just re-read the thread again, and he says he has done exactly as I quoted above. I will re-state what he says he had done. for clarity of 'explanation'. New 36v BBS02B 500W stator/rotor. Same 36v BBS01B 250W Controller @15A. Same 36v battery. Result: higher Max rpm available before assist cuts out (i.e. from 78rpm, changed to 113rpm). So, either it works, or [mention=10894]Deere John[/mention] is a liar. Can anyone else confirm or debunk (with actual experience, not just conjecture or a different procedure).

Well that's why I'm asking. I only have the one instance of [mention=10894]Deere John[/mention] doing the stator/rotor only upgrade, and he's not been seen since April. He did the upgrade on a BBS01B 250W 36v system with a BBS02B 500W 36v stator/rotor kit. He didn't change the controller (so amps still fixed at 15A). He didn't change the battery (so still 36v). His thread is worth a read. Here is a quote from his assessment after installing (post #27): "Ok, now I have two rides with the new BBS01.5. Short summary: Hard to tell what I felt. I think I start in the other end. I certainly know what I NOT felt. No more motor cutting off on me when pedalling normal. No matter what cadence it assisted anyway. I had to pedal like a maniac to get it to cut off because then finally outrun motor rpm. So this huge issue is no more. I just swapped rotor/stator. Same (250W) controller, same programming. So, what did I feel? It felt great! It feels like the 36V BBS01 should have felt from beginning I think. This cadence issue was really frustrating. It was worth every penny to get it fixed. Biking experience is so much better now when I just can pedal at whatever cadence I want and still get the assist I want."

Thanks [mention=9639]Raboa[/mention]. That does seem like a better deal, especially with the seals and gasket included. I'm in no real hurry, so shipping from the US is no problem.