Gringo

Interesting technology, something I may well consider. I can shift down all the gears really fast with a single twist , as long as my pedals are moving. I have a Shimano hub gear on another bike and you don’t need to worry about what gear your in because you can shift while stationary .

Hi folks, I thought I’d share my experience with SRAM gripshift with Shimano Cues 10 speed derailleur and cassette. A few years ago I had 4 bikes (all 9 speed) in my collection and I’d been putting up with arthritis in my right thumb (and a lot of other places) for years. Then I bought a 5th bike and it had a twist grip shifter. Night and day better, and you can have the shifter on the left side without issues. I changed my other bikes to sram twist and continued to ride them for a few more years until I had to give up on manual bikes altogether (waiting on a new knee).last year I bought another E-bike that came with the new 10 speed Cues gears, I asked many bike shop mechanics about 10 speed twist grip (explaining that I’d already done several 9 speed conversions) and they all said no chance, either fit electronic shifting (too expensive) or swap out the Cues for something else ( I didn’t want to junk the brand new derailleur and cassette) I’ve now done 1200 painful miles and I was about to bite the bullet and fit a new 9 speed setup, digging through my spares I found a SRAM NX 11 speed Gripshift, a quick measure and I found the pull ratio was exactly the same as the Cues thumb shifter. An hour later and i had a perfectly functioning 10 speed twist shift, the derailleur end stops mean you don’t use the last click of the shifter. The only annoying thing is, I could have done this 1200 miles ago.

A bit late to the game but I’ve had several pullers over the years and remember one in particular that had a top hat shaped adapter that went on the end to press against the BB spindle end, when I tried to use the puller with it in place i got only a few turns before the puller started to apply pressure on the spindle and it stripped the first few threads. Without the adapter the tool worked perfectly

What does the chain line look like with the chain on the middle ring of the cassette?

That’s the best thing about cycling, downhill fast 49mph was my best, I’d ran out of gears and my legs were a blur, I’d have gone faster if I could

5mm standard thread for bottle cage mounting. If I remember correctly it’s a 7.1 mm hole for a 5mm rivnut and I’d also look for knurled nuts as they grip better with less chance of spinning in the hole

Hi folks, before I ask my question I’d like to say, sorry for the long winded post I’m a retired mechanical engineer, I’ve owned, built and maintained motorcycles, pedal bikes all my life, I’m not a numpty who doesn’t know the difference between a spanner and a spoon. I have 6 bikes at the moment including a few spare wheel sets, tyre change has never been a bad problem usually 3to5 minutes each, although some tyre/rim combinations are particularly tight to remove. Schwalbe smart sam plus on my Bizanga mtb rims need a thin metal tool forced between the rim edge and tyre just to get a little soapy water in before repeatedly wiggling and prying to get the bead moving. Once the bead seal is broken the rest is straight forward. Today my friends were out riding and someone had a puncture, they were only a few miles away from me and after 4 experienced riders had tried and failed to get the tyre off the rim (Giant hybrid bike with Marathon plus tyres) I got the call can you please help. anywho I went to the rescue tools in hand, it took me at least 5 minutes with a large screwdriver and soapy water just to break the seal between tyre and rim , the rest of the repair was done in 2 minutes. As it appears that I’m the only one in our group that can do this, I’m thinking that there must be something to keep the tyre from sticking, maybe grease the rim, silicon or talcum powder? I’ve even briefly considered shaving a little off the tyre under the bead I have searched the subject but all answers don’t address the real issue, they assume the questioner doesn’t know how to use tyre leavers and suggest things like, pushing the bead to the centre of the rim or even stupid answers like “i Don’t have a problem“ Has anyone else had similar issues and found a solution.

I like the idea of a dropper but I also love my ncx suspension seatpost and wouldn't do without it. I guess the best compromise would be a sprung saddle with a dropper post

To turn on and off you only need to press the on/off switch on the display, battery key is only a mechanical lock, to reset the trip (distance for each journey or per charge or whatever you want) press and hold both left buttons (no other functions can be changed) to see the different screen options press and hold the lower left button, the screen can display, trip distance, overall distance, assist level or estimation of remaining distance in the battery (very unreliable as it bases this on the last small portion of your journey, ie if you’ve just got to the top of a long hill in turbo, the remaining battery will be a lot less than if you’ve been riding on the flat in eco) the motor connectors are, 1- main power from battery, 2- speed sensor, 3- display, 4-front light 5- rear light. before you go to a dealer to get lights activated, try pressing and holding the upper right button for a few seconds and look at the bottom left of the screen, your lights although not fitted may have the function activated (they were on my Crossfuse ) se pic.

Totally not what you asked but I thought it worth mentioning, in the past few months two of my friends have bought (independently to each other) second hand Orbea’s I don’t know the exact models but they both said they love them, neither spent more than £700. they look similar to this picture

by increasing the chain ring size your chain could now be too short, just a thought

I’ve been using the free version of Komoot for more years than I care to remember. Recording rides and route planning, I share rides via Komoot and when I use it to follow a route it also give audio directions

Sold

I can’t say I laughed as Ive seen similar saddles before, this one however looks like it’s putting undue stress on the seam of his jeans, I can only imagine the knock on effect as it pushes one buttock up at the back while the other goes down

During lockdown I had a frame shot blasted and powder coated candy red over a silver base £80, at that time a single colour was £60 I have used Halfords aerosols in the past , although they do a decent job the finish is not very durable (anything rubbing against it wears through quite easily) decals cut from sticky back vinyl