Trevor George

WOW !! amazing setup . . but I wouldn't want to go anywhere near a 48 volt battery and start soldering, which is why I took the easy route and just used a Y-shaped plug-in connector into the front-light wiring loom. Good luck with all of those lights and indicators if you do connect in Maybe even a "flashing blue light" for those emergency rides haha

I agree about your Current Bank Account (and mine) but if the current draw is so low it is well within the tolerances of the output from the Contoller, so if it's useful to you I would leave it connected as I plan to do with mine, despite some cautionary warnings, as the overall current draw of both front and rear light are still way under the maximum output of the controller

If you've been doing it for three years, and have gotten away with it, then it's probably well within the tolerances of the circuit-designer's original circuit diagrams and specifiactions for components I feel the rear light draws so much less than the front, that it won't (hopefully) become a problem for me.

Yep, I'm puzzled as well, as I didn't think that a 12 volt LED rear light would even work from a 6 volt supply

Hiya . . I don't know the total circuit draw and it's not in any manual I have, but considering the front light is very bright and the rear is nowhere-near-as-bright, and that any circuit / engine / whatever is always created to allow for tolerances, I feel quite content in using this alteration. If it blows the Contoller, then I will inform the Factory, as I'm pretty sure they will send me a replacement controller, as I'm being a 'guinea-pig' for them, in doing this sort of thing for them to show how well-made their eBikes are As here -▶

Yep, checked with a Mulimeter and it was 12 Volts, before ordering the new rear light off eBay

The original rear light was such as faff, and the new rear light is low powered, and the Factory have adopted my idea, so I'm hoping all will work out ok. It's a damn sight more efficient anyway

I did consider the Contoller, but it's so difficult to get at on mine, and I would still have to remove the motor, so when that Y-splice worked ok when I tested it at the front with a low-powered 12 Volf rear light, I just figured the easiest way was to drop a wire down the frame to connect up. I'm just hoping it won't overload the system, but being low-powered, I'm hoping to get away with it

I think because the rear LED is very low-powered, compared to the bright front light, that I can get away with it, and I don't think the Factory would adopt the idea unless they had checked with Bafang first

Hi from another Trevor . . I live in the hilly City of Bristol and have installed many kits for myself and friends from UK-based - Cyclotricity - as -▶ CLICK HERE

Hi folks . . I did a search and couldn't find any references, but I have a Bafang Mid-drive M510 motor, and the controller only supplies 12 Volt power to the front light on my - MarioBike Bird - and I've been irritated ever since it arrived, as my rear lamp is a separate (and fiddly) item which has to be removed to charge the small internal battery, and it could easily be stolen when I park up. I just wondered if anyone else here has a similar setup with a Bafang Mid-drive motor on their eBike that also only supplies power to their front light? To me that doesn't seem very useful when there's a 48-volt battery just in front of it, so I decided to do something about it and have now converted my MarioBike Bird eBike to be able to switch both front and rear lights on at the same time. If this is of any help to anyone else who may have a similar setup, and 'might' be able to pass a wire through their frame to the rear, then this is my 'help' video -▶ Interestingly, I contacted the - MarioEbike Factory - and showed them, and are now going to adopt my idea on all of their new eBikes on their Assembly-line, as soon as they have ordered in enough lights and cables

Thanks, we will do that

Thanks . . I will tell him that, and I'm sure he wil be very appreciative . . Thanks

Hi Roger . . I know this is an old post, but just wondered if you had succeeded in getting a replacement battery, as a colleague of mine is looking for a battery and a charger for his EZEE Sprint, as I posted here ▶ https://www.facebook.com/groups/bristolelec/posts/3521599898078657/

This is the item / socket that [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] was recommending