Yes, that battery will fit straight on. Nothing is without risk though. There's a very small chance that your controller could get damaged. A new controller would be about £20 to £30.

 

There's two things that you have to check: Firstly that the battery contacts are the same way round. You need to check them with a meter. If not, it's easy to swap them over. Secondly, your controller will switch off at too low a voltage. The battery will have a BMS that should protect it, but you need to check that it's working. Any throttle or display LEDs will be on all the time, so they won't help. It is possible to modify the controller if you need basic electronics skills, or you can keep an eye on the voltage yourself with a permanently fixed voltmeter. 31v is the minimum for a 36v battery.

V1NF DC15-120V Waterproof Blue LED Panel Meter DC Digital Voltmeter Two-wire | eBay

Thanks to KirstinS, I decided to make a 12V booster pack. I have an old Dell laptop battery and have dismantled it and found 8 batteries but no manufacturers marking nor type except code numbers (I think they are 18650 from the size). I measured the voltage and all except 2 measured about 3V so should have 6 good batteries. Since they are 2200mAH I planning to build a 3s4p pack to make a 11.1 and 8800mAH booster. Would the capacity be sufficient bearing in mind my original bike battery is 24V 9AH?

 

I planning to buy a (genuine) Imax B6 charger for this project. I understand a little about the function of balance wires between batteries in series, but how do you balance batteries in parallel?

 

This project is going to take a while as I'll be buying additional refurbished 18650 batteries on Ebay, avoiding those Ultrafire ones from what I have read about them. I'm a bit apprehensive about the flammability and explosiveness of these type of batteries, so will be very careful and taking my time in soldering and testing this.

You can't make 3S4P from 8 cells. You need 12. Also, it's best to to have higher nominal capacity in your booster because the cells will be old and worn out. I'd go for 3S6P, which means 18 cells.

 

I've been thinking about this, and realised that here's a chance of damaging your main battery if you don't monitor it too because it won't be protected by the controller's LVC anymore. That means you need two voltmeters: One for the booster pack and one for the main pack.

LVC = Low voltage condition?

 

Probably didn't make it clear, I'm looking to buy more 18650 cells on Ebay like these Samsung here www.ebay.co.uk.

 

Thinking about the problem of LVC no longer protecting the main battery, would it be better to keep the capacity of the booster less than main, that way just monitoring the booster should be OK assuming the booster will discharge quicker. Also booster would be less bulky. What do you think?

 

I like to use this series harness www.ebay.co.uk for the booster and a switch so I can switch the booster in/out of series with the main battery.

Hello experts. I have a some question about my controller, that there is a limit somwhere in the controller or not?[ATTACH]6747.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6748.vB[/ATTACH]

My e bike is 250W \ 36v with PAS sensor, but without motor sensor and have 5 speed on a throttle.In a 5th speed controller give 24v (in AC mode, in DC mode the instrument shows nothing). I have tried some experiment with plus 6 Voltage but now both, 4th and 5th speed give the same 24v. strange.(and no more speed than 25 km\h) it looks like something cut the voltage off. any idea guys?

The voltage you measured doesn't mean anything because it's a three phase AC motor, so the voltage sent to the motor is changing all the time. You need an oscilloscope to see what's happening. Do you have a 24v or 36v battery?

 

I don't quite understand what you have regarding your 5 speed device. Is it an LCD panel? If so, can you show a photograph.

Since this thread started, I've seen another controller like Spikey's. The big white lead is a programming lead, which is a bit worrying. Unlikely, but it might mean that the speed limit is programmed into the software, and it could use a hall signal to check the speed. We'll know when the booster battery is finished.

[ATTACH]6758.vB[/ATTACH]

here is the throttle.Very simple Led panel. Led lights show the levels of battery (down), and the 5 speed (up, and with plus and minus buttons I can change those). Battery is 36v. I tried on 42v but no more speed than 25 Km\h.

When you tried 42v, did you add another 6v battery? If you did and the speed didn't change, it looks like bad news. The normal speed limit wires are not connected to your controller, so it can't be them. You don't have a user programmable limit. It's not the motor limiting the speed otherwise it would go faster at a higher voltage. Therefore, the limit must be set in the controller software. I think you'll need a new controller like the KU65 from BMSBattery, or make an opportunity out of a crisis and get their nice S06S sinewave one with LCD display.

Yes I added another 6 v battery. So it looks like you have right. The controller is limited by software. Bad news but no worry, I will change than the controller and the problem will resolve. Thanks a lot !!!

and something else: After I buy, can I add 48v for Ku65 controller? Can I handle it?

Edited September 7, 201312 yr by redboy

Since this thread started, I've seen another controller like Spikey's. The big white lead is a programming lead, which is a bit worrying. Unlikely, but it might mean that the speed limit is programmed into the software, and it could use a hall signal to check the speed. We'll know when the booster battery is finished.

 

I think you could be right.

 

Before I soldered the shunt the bike would not go beyond 15mph dead. After the soldered shunt I get better torque up hill but on the flat it would reach 15mph cut out and then back on again, repeating this process. To reach 15mph dead and not go any faster must be controlled somewhere so your theory about software programmed limiter makes sense.

 

I wonder should I abandon the idea of a booster.

The Ku65 can handle 12S lipos that go up to 50v, but a 48v battery goes up to 54v, which is over the 53v limit of the capacitors. Some people have done it and got away with it, but it's risky.

 

I'd keep the booster battery on ice until you get a new controller.

The Ku65 can handle 12S lipos that go up to 50v, but a 48v battery goes up to 54v, which is over the 53v limit of the capacitors. Some people have done it and got away with it, but it's risky.

 

I'd keep the booster battery on ice until you get a new controller.

 

Well unless you can find any free cells. I found a local laptop repair shop who were having to give me for free out of dead laptops.

 

If free then worth a try to be sure ? At least that way you know for sure a new controller is required

When you get this cutting in and out at 15 mph, it's very likely to be caused by a limiter, which can't be solved with a booster pack.

When you get this cutting in and out at 15 mph, it's very likely to be caused by a limiter, which can't be solved with a booster pack.

 

If that's the case and a 36v 8fun controller is not so limited (we know from other members )

 

Would a 8fun run at at 36v run this at over 15mph

 

Given the 24 wheel size vs my 700c I would guess yes ?

 

I do have a spare one if you think it worth it d8veh ?

 

Otherwise I guess OP needs to suck up cost of new controller

Can someone recommend a 24V controller that have the same wiring configuration as my original which I can have the speed restricted. Also the controller should have enough headroom so that I could run the bike at 36V on the odd occasion.

You'd need to post a picture of your controller with all the wires laid out showing all the connectors to be sur. The KU65 or S06S or S06P from BMSBattery will probably work, but you'd need to change a couple of connectors.

slightly off topic but has anyone used dc-dc boost converters instead of extra batteries. I seem to remember thinking that if you have a brushed motor you might be able to add one on the output from the controller to raise from 36 to higher volts for more rear wheel rpm at the expense of battery range. Sadly I am not electronically minded enough to be able to fathom the calculations needed to establish whether this would work.

10A 12V~80V DC-DC Boost Converter Power Supply 500W 600W Voltage Regulator | eBay

this sort of thing.

They can't provide enough amps and they are terribly inefficient.

I just bought this bike at a cheap store here in Norway, and after taking apart the controller I concluded we have the same controller.. and good news: I HAVE SOLVED THE MAX SPEED DEACTIVATION BLOCK!

 

Now, what you do is this:

 

1. disassemble your controller

 

2. take a jumper (like those behind old CD/DVD-Drives, or something else to short the two pins marked 'enactment' (see pictures below)

 

3. While pins are shorted, turn on the power on the battery for a couple of seconds and turn it off again.

 

4. Remove the jumper or material used to short-circuit the 2 pins and fire up the bike and go for a test-spin without boundaries ;D

 

 

That's it; you now should have your motor running even downhill.

 

Though it don't go -much- faster on flat ground, it gets more motivating to pedal faster to see how fast one can go with a little help and with the limits at 25kph here in Norway, I can actually feel the difference even on my 200W 24V engine Biking just got EVEN more fun!!

 

By the Way; One can easily connect a cable to those two pins, to make a more permanent switch on the handle-type-of-solution.. That way, you can keep it legal.

 

200W is still a bit embarrassing in steep hills, so I will try to solder on some soldering iron to see if that fixes that problem as well... I will let you know, if I feel the result worth mentioning.

 

Sorry for posting on a partially dead link, but I could not find this info anywhere online, so maybe someone reads this and save themselfes some time and frustration Great post neither way, I have learned a lot here

Hi Kaare,

 

Great post - thanks for the info! I'll check my controller tomorrow. Out of interest, what brand is your bike? EcoRide? (Swedish/Chinese).

 

Mvh from Sweden

Hi!

 

I bought it at "Biltema" and after a quick biltema.se search I found the same bike there (nice with global stores and products sometimes).

 

http://www.biltema.se/sv/Fritid/Cykel/Cyklar-och-vagnar/Elcykel/Elcykel-folding-20-271401/

 

If you wonder why your wires don't go to the same pins on the board, don't worry about it. As long as the board has the same model number (or even if it don't but has the same 'enactment'-pin on the board), this procedure is 100% safe.

Edited July 28, 201411 yr by Kaare Jenssen

Hi again,

 

I opened up my controller today but couldn't see the "enactment" pin. The board is tiny as you know, and feels quite fragile so I didn't dare to poke about too much or start crossing out connections, just in case...

 

The model number is similar however. Yours seems to be LSW70A6G whilst mine seems to have an extension of this: LSW70A6G-V02-13083

 

The bike is an Ecoride. The motor is a standard 250w brushless 8Fun hub motor and battery is 36v 10Ah - all Chinese of course.

 

Are you able to locate the "enactment" pins in these photographs?

 

 

Edited July 28, 201411 yr by brugospals

Yours is different. It doesn't have the jumper in the same place. It might use an external jumper. Is there a pair of single white wires, which are joined by small black connectors outside of the controller?

No, the only external wires joined with black plastic connectors outside the controller is connection #1 (6 km/h no-pedalling throttle limiter), and the front and rear lights.

 

This is the connection diagram. http://store.ecoride.se/EcoRidekopplingsschema2.pdf

 

Connection #1, the 6km/h speed limiter, is for the throttle control only. Disconnecting that means that the bike will go up to 25 km/h without the need for pedalling. The 25 km/h limiter still kicks in though. So I keep these plugs connected, as not pedalling up a hill at 25 km/h looks suspicious...

 

Basically, I want to remove the 25km/h limiter because the bike really pulses when cykling on flat ground around the limit. The motor kicks in and out, and it's very annoying over longer distances.

 

Any other suggestions?