Hi again. d8veh is right. yet as he say, the jumper points might still be there, just not labeled., Can't see any jumper wiring, but if there where, that would be the point, so stretching the side plate further out on the wire to get room to examine further would be good (though be very gentle, especially the first time, since they are glued/silicon'd together with the rubber surroundings)..

 

Don't know what Connector 6 is supposed to do, but I would try !! AT YOUR OWN RISK !! to disconnect it and power up (due to my trial and error nature, but can't see how that should blow anything up .. did a fast google search on your version of the board, but couldn't find anything in a hurry.

 

<edit>

I now see that you have a throtle walking pedal override that limits to 6km/h.. could this curcuit give you any hints to how the limiter works? This might be a "golden plate" in this regard.. !

 

I see some more tonight when I get some nerding time ;D

 

I also have a wiring diagram of the whole card layouts of all models, I just need to figure out where I put it Then I can compare it with mine, to figure out if, and if so, where the enactmen pins are

 

Don't give up on it yet

 

Another thing to try, though a bit of a stretch, is to short every solder point fairly close together on the board (one at a time) (WHILE BATTERY NOT CONNECTED), since some jumpers tend to erase some information in memory, so the power is not actually needed for the change. If you are lucky, that would trigger off the limiter upon next bootup. But as I say, this is stretching science a bit, and you are now entering the world of real old school hacking hehe

I also would suspect such a circuit to need some sort off battery(?) which I cannot see on this boards but hey, I have seen stranger things working than that

 

 

-Kaare

Edited July 28, 201411 yr by Kaare Jenssen

I'm looking at the back of the PCB at all the connections along the edge. They have various markings:

 

V0 is 5v

GND is 0v

12V is 12V.

H1, H2 and H3 are the hall signals.

All the ones beginning with D must be data inputs from brakes, display, PAS and throttle, plus some unused ones.

 

For the ones marked beginning with a D, can you tell me the markings of those with wires in, and what the wires go to? Then can you list the unpopulated ones.

Are there any other markings not mentioned above? There should be another one beginning with V for the battery voltage to the display. I can't read the ones where the light is shining on it.

Don't know what Connector 6 is supposed to do, but I would try !! AT YOUR OWN RISK !! to disconnect it and power up (due to my trial and error nature, but can't see how that should blow anything up ..

 

Connector 6 is for the lights. It carries battery voltage, so don't plug it in to anything else, and don't short it out.

Hi Kaare and d8veh,

 

Thanks for your replies. Just got in after a long day out - about 35km on the bike as well...and still feel the pulsing motion kinda like sea-sickness!

 

It's late now, but I will go down in the morning and take some more pictures and try to answer your questions d8veh about the markings on the wires and where they go to etc.

 

I'll also try to short out the board with the battery disconnected Kaare, just in case

 

Thanks - will report back tomorrow

 

I'll also try to short out the board with the battery disconnected Kaare, just in case

 

 

Don't do that until we've figured out what's what. Shorting out some wires or pads on the PCB, can instantly damage the controller.

Ok - I haven't crossed anything out yet.

 

I opened up the controller again and took a few more pictures.

 

It's very hard to know exactly where everything goes, but I've managed to figure some things out. I made some notes on one of the pictures below.

 

There doesn't seem to be any jumpers on the circuit board at all, except something that looks like a tiny single jumper (ie. it doesn't look like it is connecting to poles, rather, just a single pole with a piece of plastic slid down it). You can (almost) see it on the second image, between the light brown upright capacitior, and the white sockets (where my far left red arrow is pointing), but it is so tiny, I didn't dare to touch it. I'd need a pair of fine tweezers to get to it anyway.

 

 

Does this help in any way?

I'm guessing that the motor sends signals back to the controller to say something like how many RPM it's doing, or, how many volts its using?

 

I wonder if it is just a matter of finding the cable sending this info back to the controller, and disconnecting it on the circuit board?

 

This would explain the pulsating feeling - going over and under the programmed limit - on flat ground at around 24 - 25km/h. Or am I way off here?

Some motors have an addition wire that gives a speed signal, but some controllers don't need it. They can get the speed from the normal hall sensors.

 

I think that the information that you've given above regarding which wires go where are incorrect. Can you use a meter on beep to check between the connector and the pad on the PCB.

 

I've decoded some more connections:

 

V0 is 5v

GND is 0v

12V is 12V.

H1, H2 and H3 are the hall signals.

VIN is battery voltage

VKEY is the return from the switch that powers the controller with battery voltage

I need to know which ones the throttle, PAS, brakes, and control panel are connected to.

I'm guessing DBK is the brake signal and DVP is PAS

 

If any, DSM looks like the best candidate: Data - Speed Modulation maybe.

Ok. I don't have a meter unfortunately, but I wonder if it could be an idea to simply unplug one wire at a time, starting with the DSM you mention above, and see what happens?

As far as I can see, there's nothing connected to DSM, so the idea is to short it to ground. If you put a 1K resistor between them, it''ll give an extra level of protection. You can buy a 1/4W 1K resistor for nearly nothing from an electronics supplier.

 

With everything open and switched on, get a friend to hold the wheel off the ground and spin the motor up to the maximum with the throttle or PAS. While it's running at full speed, touch one end of the resistor to ground and the other to DSM and any other likely data pads to see if the motor increases in speed.

Thanks, I understand.

 

I will source the resistor, follow your directions, and will report back once I have some results!

 

I'm going away for a week today though but will do this as soon as I get back!

I've thought about this some more whilst I've been away, and will hold off with any modifications - at least until after the guarantee on the bike runs out... just in case! But thanks so much for your help and ideas - I will return to this thread in the future!

As far as I can see, there's nothing connected to DSM, so the idea is to short it to ground. If you put a 1K resistor between them, it''ll give an extra level of protection. You can buy a 1/4W 1K resistor for nearly nothing from an electronics supplier.

 

With everything open and switched on, get a friend to hold the wheel off the ground and spin the motor up to the maximum with the throttle or PAS. While it's running at full speed, touch one end of the resistor to ground and the other to DSM and any other likely data pads to see if the motor increases in speed.

 

Hello there! I just signed up on pedelec solely för the purpose of this thread. I, just like brugospals, have än ecoride and än identical controller. This 25 kmh pulsing drives me crazy on my Daily 42 km bike ridning. I read through the thread with excitement, only to find that a solution wasnt in Place yet. I tried shorting Every suspicious connector like suggested. Unfortunately None of them gave the desired effect . Is there anything else you or someone else with more experience than me can think of? I can add that ecoride use the same controller för all their bikes regardless of wheel size, so the limit shouldnt be because of rpm. Any help apreciated, thanks in advance.

Hi Tedvin,

 

Glad to hear I'm not the only one going crazy due to the pulsing! I previously owned an Ecoride City from 2013, and the controller on that didn't seem to limit at 25km/h when the battery was fully charged. It gave assistance pretty much up to about 30km/h and tapered off: no pulsing.

 

That bike got stolen, so I was quite surprised at the difference between that and the 2014 Ecoride City. I asked the shop in Gothenburg about it, but they said they had had to make some changes to the controller to better comply in with Swedish law. I asked them if it is possible to remove the limiter, but they said no. Of course, they aren't going to give the answers away, probably due to legal restrictions.

 

If you, or someone else manages to solve the issue, please post back here - removing that limiter would make things much smoother... and faster

You need a new controller. They don't cost much. Some might be too big to fit in the compartment. What is the size of your ones?

Hi Tedvin,

 

Glad to hear I'm not the only one going crazy due to the pulsing! I previously owned an Ecoride City from 2013, and the controller on that didn't seem to limit at 25km/h when the battery was fully charged. It gave assistance pretty much up to about 30km/h and tapered off: no pulsing.

 

That bike got stolen, so I was quite surprised at the difference between that and the 2014 Ecoride City. I asked the shop in Gothenburg about it, but they said they had had to make some changes to the controller to better comply in with Swedish law. I asked them if it is possible to remove the limiter, but they said no. Of course, they aren't going to give the answers away, probably due to legal restrictions.

 

If you, or someone else manages to solve the issue, please post back here - removing that limiter would make things much smoother... and faster

 

Interesting about the 2013 model controller. That sounds exactly like how I want it to work. I've got the Urban8 from 2014. I'm sorry about the stolen bike, though I wonder, did it's controller have the same connectors and functions? I'm thinking ecocide possibly keep spares from older models, so perhaps one of the older controllers could be bought from them. If not, maybe they could point us in the right direction towards the seller of those controllers

You need a new controller. They don't cost much. Some might be too big to fit in the compartment. What is the size of your ones?

 

Thank you for the reply. Yep, that's the trouble. I measured my box to 95x50x30mm. It's really tiny. It also has different connectors than other more common controllers i've seen on here and endless-sphere. Do you know of any good places to look for controllers?

How tight is the controller in the compartment? The KU65 and S06P from BMSBattery are just a couple of mm bigger. It looks like your motor is sensorless. Is that correct?

How tight is the controller in the compartment? The KU65 and S06P from BMSBattery are just a couple of mm bigger. It looks like your motor is sensorless. Is that correct?

 

Well, it's quite tight, but the measurements of both KU 63/65 (http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/692-hall-sensorsensorless-250watts-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html) and the S06P (http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/545-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html) should be able to fit.

 

As to whether my motor is sensorless or not: Does this refer to if there are hall sensors or not? On my present controller I have 3 thin wires (blue green yellow) labeled H1, H2 and H3, which run from the controller to the motor along with 3 thicker wires. Does this mean my motor is in fact sensored?

 

I'm sorry that my knowledge in this area is a bit thin. However, thank you for taking the time and helping out d8veh, it's much appreciated

You need five wires for three hall sensors in the motor. There has to be red and black too., so are there at least eight wires altogether. Sensored/sensorless means with/without hall sensors.

 

If you have a sensored motor, you can use the S06S as well.

You need five wires for three hall sensors in the motor. There has to be red and black too., so are there at least eight wires altogether. Sensored/sensorless means with/without hall sensors.

 

If you have a sensored motor, you can use the S06S as well.

 

Yes, at a closer look there is just like you say also the red and black wire.

 

Ok, so the S06S seems to be a nice controller with the "torque imitation". However, I'm wondering how that controller will work together with my display/control panel. My present one looks like this http://store.ecoride.se/cykeltillbehor/182-kontrollenhet-activedrive.html. Will I still be able to use the same panel?

 

Does the controller have the possibility to connect my lights aswell or do I have to come up with some other solution for the lights? And just to be clear, neither of S06S or KU65 has a speed limiter? It's tempting to buy one and try it out, as soon as I get your reply regarding the control panel

The BMSBattery controllers don't have wires for lights. You'd have to chuck your control panel and get a nice LCD instead. It'll probably work with the KU63, but would need a 4-pin connector.

The BMSBattery controllers don't have wires for lights. You'd have to chuck your control panel and get a nice LCD instead. It'll probably work with the KU63, but would need a 4-pin connector.

 

Thanks for all of your help. So right now I'm thinking of getting a S06S along with S-LCD3 from BMSBattery. My lights run off 36V so I'll just connect them to the wires coming from the battery and add a separate on/off-switch for them. Does all of this seem like a good solution?

That's what I'd do. You'll probably have to do a bit of wiring, changing over connectors etc. It might be also an idea to get one of their pedal sensors just to make sure it's compatible. They're cheap enough. And you get the chance to change your throttle to a different type or add one if you don't already have one.

That's what I'd do. You'll probably have to do a bit of wiring, changing over connectors etc. It might be also an idea to get one of their pedal sensors just to make sure it's compatible. They're cheap enough. And you get the chance to change your throttle to a different type or add one if you don't already have one.

 

I added a PAS and have placed my order. What a project this turned into, can't keep my hands away from tinkering

 

Cheers d8veh!