That's what I'd do. You'll probably have to do a bit of wiring, changing over connectors etc. It might be also an idea to get one of their pedal sensors just to make sure it's compatible. They're cheap enough. And you get the chance to change your throttle to a different type or add one if you don't already have one.

 

Hello again d8veh.

 

I'm afraid I didn't think this through enough, and I'm hoping you can help out. The main purpose of getting new equipment is to increase the speed of which I will be able to cruise with moderate pedaling. As of now my motor stops assisting at 25 kph, which means my speed is about 24-27 kph with the motor pulsing on and off when pedaling moderatly.

 

So far an S06S along with S-LCD3 has been determined. However, I think my motor might also be a limiting factor for the speed, but want to figure out for sure. I've read that if the no-load speed differs (about 10%) with fully charged/uncharged battery then the motors rpm is limiting the top speed. I've also read that if the system doesn't "pulse" (kick in and out) when lifting the tyre and holding the gas, the motor is doing as many rpm's as it can with that voltage.

 

On my bike the speed isn't lower when my battery level is low, it just get's less torque which suggest it could be spinning faster before reaching maximum rpm for that voltage. Although, when I lift the tyre and give full gas it doesn't pulse but rather keeps a stable 25 kph which suggest it does as many rpm's as it possibly can with that voltage. Obviously one of the facts aren't true since its contradictory. Could you help me straightening out the facts here? Do I need a different motor along with my S06S to increase the top speed?

 

If I in fact should get a new motor, I've been looking at the BPM2 36V350W with 328 rpm. My wheel size is 28x1,75. I'm riding mostly a more or less flat surface although sometimes quite windy since its open fields and along coastline. Also I'm quite lightweight, me + bike + battery weighs in around 90 kg. Would the BPM2 36V350W work well together with the S06S although that controller is rated at 250W? Does this seem like a good option to drastically increase my speed with moderate pedaling?

 

Sorry for long post, thank you for taking the time.

I would say that you speed is limited. You won't know the max speed until you delimit.

 

The BPM is a much bigger more powerful motor. A 328 rpm one will max out your controller at virtually every speed you travel, so the controller will soon overheat and probably pop. You have to match all the components in your system with each other, and to the speed you want to go. It's very complicated until you get your head around how they all work together. I'll try and explain:

 

The motor tries to draw the maximum current allowed at low speed, but as it speeds up, it generates volts that oppose the battery volts, so at high speed, the current goes down until it reaches zero at maximum RPM. If you have a low current controller, the controller will be maxed out throughout the speed range, but if you have a higher current controller, the point at which the motor can't take the maximum current happens at a lower speed. Use the simulator below to play about with different controllers to see what happens. If you look at the red line, it has a kink in it. That's the point at which the current from the motor starts to decrease from the maximum allowed.

 

http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

 

To run a 328 rpm motor, you need about 30A at 36v to get it up to near it's maximum speed and a battery that can provide it.

 

To summarise, if you want to go over 20 mph, you need a 22A controller, motor around 260 rpm and a battery that can give 20A continuous. For 25 mph, you need a 30A controller and a battery that can give over 25A continuous.

I would say that you speed is limited. You won't know the max speed until you delimit.

 

The BPM is a much bigger more powerful motor. A 328 rpm one will max out your controller at virtually every speed you travel, so the controller will soon overheat and probably pop. You have to match all the components in your system with each other, and to the speed you want to go. It's very complicated until you get your head around how they all work together. I'll try and explain:

 

The motor tries to draw the maximum current allowed at low speed, but as it speeds up, it generates volts that oppose the battery volts, so at high speed, the current goes down until it reaches zero at maximum RPM. If you have a low current controller, the controller will be maxed out throughout the speed range, but if you have a higher current controller, the point at which the motor can't take the maximum current happens at a lower speed. Use the simulator below to play about with different controllers to see what happens. If you look at the red line, it has a kink in it. That's the point at which the current from the motor starts to decrease from the maximum allowed.

 

http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

 

To run a 328 rpm motor, you need about 30A at 36v to get it up to near it's maximum speed and a battery that can provide it.

 

To summarise, if you want to go over 20 mph, you need a 22A controller, motor around 260 rpm and a battery that can give 20A continuous. For 25 mph, you need a 30A controller and a battery that can give over 25A continuous.

 

I see, thank you for the explanation, my vision gets clearer for every day passing . Yes there is definitely more to it than one initially thinks.

 

Unfortunately I simply don't have room for a bigger controller than S06S or KU63/65 without making major modifications. I don't want my bike looking too much like a DIY-project either.

 

However, from reading in the S-LCD3 manual I see that there is a feature for reducing the maximum current which the controller lets the motor draw. At highest setting it reduces current by 5 amps from the controllers maximum, which for the S06S would be 14-5=9A. With 36V system this makes for a power slightly above the controllers rated 250W. So my questions here are: Does this current-reducing feature of the S-LCD3 work with S06S controller? If it indeed does, this slight "overpower" shouldn't be impossible to handle over-heat wise, right? Perhaps with minor modifications like changing the thermal paste to something better (got loads of qualitative stuff of this since I'm building PC's).

 

I've been trying out the simulator you linked, really nice tool. From the drop down menus I chose the Bafang BPM motor, 36V 14Ah eZee LiMn (the battery i use is actually a 36V 13,5 Ah Li-ion). As for the controller I chose a custom 9 A 0.1 Ohm. (As for the resistance, I have no idea, is this a reasonable approximate value?) The resulting graphs are quite interesting. It presents 30 kph with electric power alone. My interpretation is that after reaching the vertical line, the difference between red and black presents how much power I must add from physically pedaling to reach that speed, assuming the motor doesn't generate more volts than the battery outputs in that specific speed/rpm. Considering my speed without e-bike help is about 22 kph I probably usually add about 120W by pedaling. Adding this to the electric performance makes my real life speed approximately 35 kph with this setup.

 

If these figures were to be even somewhat close to reality, I'd be more than happy with the performance. So as I see it this all comes down to the following question: Are there any major down sides of limiting the current to only 9 amps to the BPM2 motor which really could handle a lot more? (Other than the obvious that the torque gets limited by limiting the current). Does it somehow damage the motor to not let it "stretch its legs"?

 

If there are any weird assumptions I've made or maybe something else I haven't though of, please point them out, I'm happy to learn more about this

A BPM at 9A would be gutless. You'd get a lot less torque than you already have. The simulator seems to have bugs. When I select a 9A controller, it says the current is 25.5A at 30 km/h. If you select a 10A controller it improves but gives motor amps 13.3 at 30km/h but only 11A from the battery. I guess it doesn't work for low currents. I can tell you though that 9A wouldn't get you an efficiency over 60% with that motor, so about 216w maximum output (9A x 40V x .6), which will get you to about 13 mph without pedalling in ideal conditions. Throw in a bit of wind and the speed will drop further, which takes the efficiency down further, so you lose power. Add in an incline and the motor will stall out. Compare that with your present system that can output a maximum of about 480W. Trust me, a BPM should be run at 20 to 22 amps.. The 328 rpm BPM is too fast for a bike with 26" wheels. If you want one that fast in 26" wheels, you need 30A at 36v, which means the 500W version.

Also registered for this thread as I am experiencing the same pulsing. Its actually my wifes bike, but she wouldnt say no to less pulsing and slightly higher topspeed.

 

Did you guys determine that the stock controller cant be modified? I have a hard time believing that, but I am no electronics engineer myself. I am not very fond of replacing the controller as it is a fully functional unit. I am however capable with the multimeter and soldering iron. Two custom ebike builds under my belt. Including 18650 battery builds and custom welded frames.

 

What is likely causing the limit?

 

Is it likely that I could present some more information (as in taking pictures or doing tests) about the controller that could lead to a breakthrough on how to modify it? I have done reflashing of brushless escs for multicopters before, maybe something similar could be done? I dont have the knowledge of the programming itself tho. Im suspecting there are more ecoride owners that have seen this thread just to find it "incomplete".

 

Best regards from Sweden

Also might be worth to mention, that the controlunit on the handlebars has a few settings. When you power the bike up it is in default mode and will use the highest degree of assist until the bike reaches 25km/h regardless of gear and cadence. Then there are 3 settings for assist low medium or high. They seem to alter the max current to the motor depending on setting. (low feels sluggish, medium alittle more alert and so on) But more importantly there is a topspeed tied to the steps. Rougly 15km/h for low 20km/h for med and 25km/h (max) for high. Might be important data for you electronic masters in here.

 

Link to the unit:

http://www.ecoprofile.se/thread-2548-Nytt-assistanssystem-fran-EcoRide-ActiveDrive.html

We've been through just about everyyhing to find a solution. I've just been right through the thread and now I have one last idea. I see in one of the pictures that the LED control panel has 5 wires. This means that you can connect a LCD panel, which might give access to the speed limit. It's a long-shot, but if anybody has a LCD panel, they could give it a try.

Was looking around at bmsbattery due to earlier mentions of that site in the thread, and found a panel that probably is more or less the same as the one thats on the ecoride. Anything useful?

 

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/549-s-led890-e-bike-led-meter-ebike-kit.html

Better pic of the underside

 

I tried to see what the wires to the control unit does, and the red, white and yellow are obvious. The green wire has something to do with the power/speed modes. If the green wire is removed, the bike travels at max speedlimit regardless of low med or high setting.

 

If the blue wire is removed, the motor wont run at all, regardless of settings on the control box. Wont run with the walkassist button either. Dunno if this helps anything.

Edited June 2, 201510 yr by Wheazel

Forgot this one.

The wires to the panel are normally:

Red battery voltage

Blue battery voltage return from the switch on the panel

Black ground

Green and yellow Tx and Rx data.

 

This can be more complicated if the panel has a loght switch on it, when some panels are analogue so the green wire gives an analogue signal for the power level and the 5th wire carries battery voltage for the lights. Other ones are digital, so data is sent to tell the controller to activate the lights.

 

Assuming that yours is digital, you cannot access the speed limit with a LED display. It has to be LCD so you can see what the speed is. I'm not saying it will work. It's just an idea.

This is the C500 meter that works with my Lishui controller:

 

I'll post the picture later. I can't figure out how to do it with Tapatalk.

The yellow and white wires that you can see in the last picture i posted, comes from the controlbox and instead of being connected to the main controller, they are routed out of the controller via the sealed wirepasses and then connected to front and rear lights. Lights are ledbased and probably consumes very low current. With this in mind it seems the controllbox actually turns on the lights. Im not at home until tomorrow to doublecheck, but this is how I thought earlier today when looking at the cabling.

I might have guessed that's how yours would be. I was going to mention it. You have a simple light switch button that latches the battery voltage from the red wire to the yellow one. The white one will be ground. When you press the light switch again, it unlatches it. The latching is done by a microprosessor in the display: The switch is a simple input to the MP, which switches a transistor, which then switches a small mosfet.

Where is that lcd display from? Still a plausible solution?

The LCD in the photo came in a Xiongda kit that also included a Lishui controller, if that's what you mean. I guess any one would work because they probably all use the same communication protocols, , but I can't say for sure. Different controllers have different programmable parameters, which must be linked to the LCD software somehow. I don't know how that works..

Maybe one of these?

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/740-s-lcd5-lcd-meter-for-s-series-controlers-ebike-kit.html

 

Also anyone knows what these connectors are called? Cant find them anywhere else but on this link.

http://dream-start.en.made-in-china.com/product/ybCxsGLTCwrp/China-Dr-D08-2-6pin-Waterproof-IP67-Connector-in-LED-Panel-Sanitary-Products-Electrial-Appliance.html

 

The connectors on the ecoride look very similar. The one going to the controlunit on the handlebars is a 6pin threaded with oring seal.

 

@[uSER=4366]d8veh[/uSER] you were right about the white being the negative wire, the yellow and white are split to both rear and front lights.

Was about to order one of those lcd displays for $17, but the shipping was $31 so i passed. Also have gotten my hands on one extra connector half, the one from the display side. So I can easy just make a plug and play test with a lcd display if I find one that is cheap.

 

Any other source for lcd displays that might work?

Hello everyone,

 

I've read the 5 pages of the thread as I'm trying to get rid of the 25km/h speed limiter of my Nanjing controller.

I have it geared with a 36V 10A battery and a 36V 250W motor.

 

Any advice on which controller I should buy that doesn't have a speed limit?

Also would an LCD display help in any ways?

 

Thanks!

Yet another Ecoride owner from Sweden signing in (gothenburg to be more precise) :]

 

Did you guys succeed with replacing the controller with a one without speed limit?

 

I found that the whole board is covered with lacque, I will try removing it to try resetting the speed limit.

 

I was also pondering if it might be possible to connect to the microchip and reprogram it not to have a limit :] removed the lacquer and the biggest chip says "cy8c24533" which seems to be the following chip: http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Cypress PDFs/CY8C24533.pdf

 

http://i.imgur.com/ksBGOIh.jpg

 

 

There is also a pin next to the connectors, unsure of what it does though.

 

http://i.imgur.com/umsxntn.jpg

I havent gotten rid of the limiter. Ended my search when the lcd displays werent dirt cheap to just test with. I would rather change stuff to get a higher speed was my conclusion. If you can figure out anything more I would be grateful.

Shorting the "enactment" pads on the back of the pcb.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=72183

I did give up trying to "tune" the stock controller. Ended up buying a new controller and better displayunit. Have replaced everything but cant get the pas to work yet. The thumbthrottle works, and a new pas sensor is on its way. Hopefully that will complete the mods. For those curious, the motor drives weaker and weaker up to 32ish km/h, which is more or less the noload speed. On straights with minor to none human input, the travelspeed is in the high 20s Overall a very nice mod to get rid of the abrupt powercut of the stock controller. My partner is pleased with the change.