Hi guys

I thought I'd let know how iv got on with this kit

Fitting it to my Raleigh Royal thats about 15 years old was straight forward other than the hub nearly touching the fork, so a washer was needed and solved the problem.

I'm using the throttle only as the pedalec disk won't fit due to the gap next to the bottom bracket is too narrow also the disk would catch the frame which curves out close to it too so wouldn't turn even if the gap was OK.

Iv not needed to come off the big ring and only used the outer three rings at the back due to the help of the motor.

Hills are easy with light pedalling even steep hills with a little more pedalling and feels very good.

Pulling away has a slight lag then away you go with a whir that gets very quiet the closer to 15 mph you get.

Maximum speed is 21 mph on a flat under perfect conditions, but generally 18 is the norm. Without pedalling 15 to 16mph is held on a fresh battery dropping to 14 to 15 after a few miles.

I did 10 miles taking in several large hills and flat roads too but purposely hitting some hills a few times as i wanted to flatten the battery to do a first 12 hour charge out of the three iv been advised to do with a new kit.

After the ten miles of which i held the throttle on permanently, I still had approximately 1/4 of power in the battery left.

My battery is the frame bottle type with 7ma rated at about 25 mile range.

Only getting about 12 miles does seem shorter than expected until you take into account the three full drain and 12 hour charges are yet to be done, also that im 20 stone.

So I'm very happy with the performance and battery life as its going to improve dramatically over the coming weeks as I lose weight and get my cycling legs back and use the throttle mainly for hills.

The shop I used to get this kit was electricbikeconversions in Stoke, whom I can wholeheartedly recommend.

http://i.imgur.com/Q1hTZ5O.jpg

Looks good

Someone here may be able to offer ideas to get the PAS ring working, maybe on the chain ring side?

I didn't even fit the thumb throttle to mine as the PAS is so handy.

I did look at the chain ring side but the gap is as a narrow. So I'm stumped how to fit it.

http://i.imgur.com/1sBs24S.jpg

My PAS ring would fit into that gap easily I’d have thought. The other option may be to fit it to the round part of the crank arm itself?

 

 

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It's a tight fit as the disk is fat and quite large.

http://i.imgur.com/7UrPE24.jpg

That’s the same as mine. I progressively cut those teeth/splines down until it fit. I also glued it once it was a tight fit onto the crank arm.

Someone else may have another idea but that worked for me.

 

 

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The gap is too tight, it doesn't fit in as it's tight..

Also the disk would touch the frame curving out near it.

Turkeylegs fitting a PAS is the best feature of these kits as it enables you to use the 5 assist levels each having a different power level, the throttle gives max amps all the time so will be stressing the battery. With the PAS working properly you will find the riding much improved and throttle use will be relegated to a quick speed boost or get you out of trouble use.

 

For your needs you need a KT V12L pas sensor that fits on the left side, it is one piece sensor unit with a middle rotating section with short splines that grip the square taper in the gap between crank arm and BB. It is only 42mm in diameter unlike the disc you have. If the gap is still too tight for a V12Lthen you need another BB with a 3-5 mm longer shaft.

 

I have an unused brand new one with the yellow 3 pin Julet water proof connector.

We can do a swap PM me if you are interested, I will have your sensor & disc and you can have my V12L.

Edited February 1, 20188 yr by Nealh

That's right. you're missing a lot by not having the PAS. It's worth the effort to fit one. There's loads of different ways to do it if you research a bit, and you can normally fit any type of PAS. You don't need to use the one that came in the kit. You can get a longer BB from Halfords for around a tenner to make more room.

Sounds like a plan mate!

 

http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=392

 

Shows you the different sensor which I think is the one they mean, looks neat

That’s the same as mine. I progressively cut those teeth/splines down until it fit. I also glued it once it was a tight fit onto the crank arm.

Someone else may have another idea but that worked for me.

 

 

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After thinking about it and thanks for the offer Neilh but iv gone the same way as you. Iv got some gorilla epoxy that you mix from two tubes but its a few years old so wondering if its still usable.

What sort of glue did you use?

I forgot to say it's only the glue that will hold it on as that's the only way it would fit by removing all the splines and just sticking it slightly over the pedal arm.

Edited February 2, 20188 yr by Turkeylegs

I just used a little superglue as it was really tight on the pedal already and that’s what I had. Epoxy would be far better. Should be perfectly fine even after two years. So long as it hasn’t gone hard [emoji1]

 

 

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Success,

http://i.imgur.com/Wlix7ef.jpg

There ya go ! And the plus point is that that type of two part mag ring can slip on the shaft. Not yours, that glue will see to that.

I just got in from doing five miles and the pedalec was different.

The strangest feeling was not having to hold the throttle on for help in pulling away but I soon got used to that. What I did find was on setting 5 the motor didn't seem to help as much as the throttle at about 10 mph on hills as hitting the throttle gave me a noticeable boost in help.

Overall I love it as I can use the pedalec all the time but bring the throttle into play if I want a little extra or to just coast a bit.

There ya go ! And the plus point is that that type of two part mag ring can slip on the shaft. Not yours, that glue will see to that.

Cheers for the tip, I was thinking alsorts of problems with axles and chain rings ect, but this has solved it all.

Thanks again mate I'm chuffed to bits .

There ya go ! And the plus point is that that type of two part mag ring can slip on the shaft. Not yours, that glue will see to that.

 

Excellent work! Should be fine now I’d say.

 

 

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Something else I noticed was when changing up to go faster there seemed less help , but when I change back down and my feet were turning quicker there was more help, or is it just me?

Gazzgo, it was you I thought I was thanking as I didn't look properly at the post, many thanks mate.

Gazzgo, it was you I thought I was thanking as I didn't look properly at the post, many thanks mate.

 

Ha ha no probs. Glad your sorted [emoji1]

 

 

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I must say I'm really enjoying the bike and finding the help makes going out a pleasure instead of a chore.

I'm still getting a leg burn and start to sweat when I'm pushing too but that's a choice I don't need to make if I don't want and just use the assist more.

The more I go out on it the more I'm learning like only use assist 1 to 3 to extend the milage of the battery and only use the throttle when really needed.

At the moment though the novelty hasn't worn off so ill continue to have fun on full power till it does.

Yep, the lower the assist the longer the ride. I rarely use the throttle and try to save most power for when I turn for home and my legs are starting to tire. When I first came to this forum I was in awe of guys talking of 14 mile rides like a stroll in the park. Now I don't feel like it's been a ride unless it's been at least that far. Though I do like a tea and cake/pint and crisps stop:eek:

My second ride out was ten miles, though I had full assist all the way really and was pleasantly surprised how easy it was relatively speaking.

The five miles tonight were just a quickie it seemed , that's the difference it makes.

I'm wondering if the three 12 hour charges are going to make much difference to the batteries performance and if it does how much?

I'm sceptical about it and hoped someone who knows could help.

An update on how I'm getting on with this.

After very happily seeing the 7 ah battery at 42 volts I couldn't wait to see how it performed today.

Now I purposely used assist 5 on it to get an idea of the minimum assisted mileage I'm likely to expect. Well I wasn't dissapointed.

Some long hills that would see me dropping onto the middle chain ring and burning my legs to keep single figure speeds were just short of burning my legs and keeping about 14 mph in a relatively comfortable zone physically.

When pulling off a quick touch of the throttle or two revs on the pedals and I was away easily, then even when freewheeling I'd use the throttle to keep the momentum going then picking it up on the pedals and feeling the thrust even at 16 and 17 mph to help me keep that speed with a bit of effort from myself.

During all this I never let up on the pedalling and only used the throttle maybe 5 or 6 times for a few seconds each time.

When I got home I had that starting to sweat heat from good effort on my part which considering its my 4th time out I think in years and iv got 20 stone to carry too isn't bad at all.

Now to the battery which was at 42 volts when I set off and after 14 miles on full assist with minimul throttle use was 36.5 when I got home with 3 green lights still on the battery check button and one bar on the lcd display.

Going on how it felt from 18 mph upwards the assist goes down very quickly until it's hardly noticeable at 20 to 21 mph, so iv decided to take the restriction in the lcd from 67 kmh to 30 kmh.

My theory is that at 20 mph the motor isn't trying to pull more from the battery as it keeps trying for 67 so saving a little of the battery.Is my logic good or am I being ignorant , as I am new to this.

Anyway, my overall impression up to now of this cyclotricity 250 watt front hub kit has blown me away.

It gives me enough assist to do the miles in relative comfort and only working hard when I decide to and even coasting on the throttle when the feeling takes me.

I'd highly recommend this to anyone thinking about it as you already have your normal bike fitting like a glove as I do with my Raliegh Royal that iv had at least 15 years maybe more like 17 according to my wife.

I'll update as I go along as it was difficult to find that much info on 250 watt front hub kits when I was looking as most seem to go for 500 or more watts which for me defeats the cycling objective, It may as well be a moped or motorbike of some sort then in my opinion .

The motor has a maximum speed to which it will spin with the wheel off the ground. If you're at any speed above that, you will draw zero power from the battery, regardless of what the speed is set to.

 

Between something like 60% maximum speed and maximum speed, the current ramps down to zero, so you only get maximum current from the battery when you're going slowly, where the controller is limiting the maximum current. Therefore, the faster you go, the less you take from the battery.