Be careful using max assist without precautions, the blue drive gear may shear teeth.

Using turbo with high % values may well cause issues with either breakages or overheating the motor, might be ok winter time but during hot weather it my be telling.

Be careful using max assist without precautions, the blue drive gear may shear teeth.

Using turbo with high % values may well cause issues with either breakages or overheating the motor, might be ok winter time but during hot weather it my be telling.

Understood, thanks for the advice! Can you give me some advice on what percentage of the maximum value is safe in terms of overheating? Thanks

Be careful using max assist without precautions, the blue drive gear may shear teeth.

Using turbo with high % values may well cause issues with either breakages or overheating the motor, might be ok winter time but during hot weather it my be telling.

 

Is this a metal replacement for the blue gear? Noisier probably...

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003321879915.html

 

I'm so glad I chose the Bafang BBS01b

Edited October 30, 20223 yr by guerney

The Blue gear is the safe option as it is quite easy to replace and acts as a fail safe, if the metal gear is used then failure occurs elsewhere so involves more dissecting and repairs elswhere. This appears to be borne out by the ES users experience.

Understood, thanks for the advice! Can you give me some advice on what percentage of the maximum value is safe in terms of overheating? Thanks

 

The main advice if maxing out current and watts is to fit the heat mods needed to help keep the motor cooler and an internal temp sensor to monitor the internal heat build up, using an external sensor is no good.

On ES some of the users have cooked the motor coils resulting in demagnitisation and mpotor power loss, keeping the motor below circa 80c is recommended and when any tmp is noted nearing or above 80c one should ease back on the power.

Maxing out the current is not recommended.

 

Hardware temperature control tsdz2 - Endless Sphere (endless-sphere.com)

The main advice if maxing out current and watts is to fit the heat mods needed to help keep the motor cooler and an internal temp sensor to monitor the internal heat build up, using an external sensor is no good.

On ES some of the users have cooked the motor coils resulting in demagnitisation and mpotor power loss, keeping the motor below circa 80c is recommended and when any tmp is noted nearing or above 80c one should ease back on the power.

Maxing out the current is not recommended.

 

Hardware temperature control tsdz2 - Endless Sphere (endless-sphere.com)

I have set the max amps back to 12, as specified for 48V. I also reduced the max on turbo to 450 instead of 500. I did a small tour with quite a climb, pedaling between stage 2 and 3. When I got to the top I stopped to see how hot the engine was. It was very slightly lukewarm.

The luke warm one feels is just the tip of the iceberg as to speak, internally the heat will be far greater (likely 60 -65c ) ok now but if you ride in hot weather as we had this summer then the motor for sure will become toasty. Inside the motor there are many areas which are air voids, air is a very poor heat conductor so scant heat actually reaches the ali exterior which is a good heat conductor. What is needed is to open the motor and fill the voids (even the small 1 or 2mm ones) with heat conducting material so that it is touching the outer casing to physically transfer said heat to be displaced and cooled.

 

Having upped the %'s one will still be drawing over 500w of power in turbo mode.

Ideally one needs a temp sensor attached the internal motor with a small display on the exterior to monitor how high the temps actually go, if one can be sure internall 75c or less is recorded then on should be ok.

 

A cheap 2 or 3 quid 5v sensor can easily be added to the motoe body with high temp silicone and the display visible on the out side, one can power the display by simply splicing in to any of the internal Gnd & 5v sources.

The luke warm one feels is just the tip of the iceberg as to speak, internally the heat will be far greater (likely 60 -65c ) ok now but if you ride in hot weather as we had this summer then the motor for sure will become toasty. Inside the motor there are many areas which are air voids, air is a very poor heat conductor so scant heat actually reaches the ali exterior which is a good heat conductor. What is needed is to open the motor and fill the voids (even the small 1 or 2mm ones) with heat conducting material so that it is touching the outer casing to physically transfer said heat to be displaced and cooled.

 

Having upped the %'s one will still be drawing over 500w of power in turbo mode.

Ideally one needs a temp sensor attached the internal motor with a small display on the exterior to monitor how high the temps actually go, if one can be sure internall 75c or less is recorded then on should be ok.

 

A cheap 2 or 3 quid 5v sensor can easily be added to the motoe body with high temp silicone and the display visible on the out side, one can power the display by simply splicing in to any of the internal Gnd & 5v sources.

Wow, thanks for this detailed explanation! So I'll get me something like that

https://amzn.eu/d/2gRUsKJ

according to these instructions

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-improve-motor-heat-dissipation

to make a good contact to the housing as the next optimization. Is there somewhere a good tutorial on how to attach the temperature sensor and connect to the emmebrusa software? Thanks

Look and read thru the 9 page threa don ES I linked to in #130 above.

The Blue gear is the safe option as it is quite easy to replace and acts as a fail safe, .....

Absolutely so (and this guy on YT thinks so too

) and folks say that the brass gear is more noisy.

 

If you're a 'low power' rider like me, (250w, 36v riding mostly in ECO) then you'll be wondering whether to be concerned about overheating. To see if my type of riding might lead to a hot motor, I attached a 'one shot' temperature strip in May'22 to my motor casing and the motor itself. As I've said recently, the motor only ever got hand warm to the touch even during the heatwave period of summer 2022 here in the UK.

 

Below is a pic of the temperature strip taken a couple of weeks ago (Oct 22) and the temperature never got anywhere near the 77degC low point on the strip (I'll fit a lower temperature range strip next time!). The red stuff is 'red rubber grease' which I apply liberally to the motor casing rubber seal (belts and braces to keep out water) and as can be seen, the 'blob' of grease hasn't got warm enough to melt.

 

From my handlebar mounted Watt meter, I typically get 100w-200w power delivered by the motor, with the odd peak around 450w-500w when pedalling like furry in a higher power setting (that's the OSF setting of 12amps max doing its work there!).

 

Should I ever opt for a 500w motor at 48v and be riding at something more than ECO, then I'd be fitting a temperature strip as a first measure before I went tinkering with the motor's 'inards' and possibly creating problems.

 

Clearly people do have problems with overheating and I wonder if the controller ever gets 'anguished' and causes some of the symptoms reported by affected riders?

 

 

 

If my motor sensor is correct the most I seen is 63c towing my trailer usng eco only with street mode enabled, I will have to wait till next summer to see if this changes now I have disabled street mode and upped the % amounts.

Today I made a tour with 25km and about 750 meters of altitude. I have a 12.5Ah 48V Hailong battery. Before the start, the battery was full except for one dash in the VLCD5 display. After arrival just two dashes left. I mostly drove with level two in hybrid mode, which I configured with 150 in power and with 100 in torque assist mode. Since I haven't fitted the engine with the heat conducting pads yet (I'll do it this weekend) it also got pretty warm after all the climbing. What do you guys say about the battery consumption? Reasonable? Or too high? Thanks for your opinions!!!

Edited November 2, 20223 yr by kiwisibk

Hi All

Ive had the 750w standard kit with LCD5 for about 3 years now. Ive thought about trying the mod but have been enjoying my bike enormously. I think I got lucky with my motor. It coasts really well when not peddling and when switched to no assist. Mine has the thumb throttle also which i sometimes use as well as peddling in turbo model if its a really steep hill. So far my original plastic gear is holding out.

I'm tempted to leave everything as is just because there seems to be a few minor bugs with the mods. I'm happy with the power spread of the stock assist modes. I often use full turbo if I'm just having fun and going a short distance like say 10kms or so. This thing really takes off in the smallest gear at full assist. From 0 to 40kms/h in 7 secs or so. I got a larger front sprocket to increase top speed a little. I enjoy powering along tracks but also enjoy slower meanders also in lowest assist. I guess ive gotten used to how it is set up that I can't be bothered changing and tweaking all the settings to find the right balance between economy and fun.

As a side note my bike has fitted 15 watts of flexible solar panels on each side of the frame and twin mppt solar controllers (the type used to charge electric solar golf carts).

I have not plugged in my bike in over 2 years.

I just park it in the sun and it charges itself.

The panels are laminated plastic and weigh almost nothing . The solar controllers are fanless and quite compact and light also.

My bike is a Merida hard tail pretty standard older MTB. I absolutely love my bike. Its a joy to ride. My battery is only around 6.5ah. Its a 48v brick from a Chinese clone onewheel that I scrapped because it was too dangerous! I'll upload some pics of the bike when I can.

Edited November 4, 20223 yr by awakekiwi

As you say, the OSF does have minor bugs.

 

In the one year I've been running OSF I'd say the advantages of a quieter motor and the flexibility in tailoring the motor response, far outweigh the odd software glitch.

 

Having said that if you are happy with the OEM setup then don't bother with OSF unless you like tinkering just for the hell of it.

As you say, the OSF does have minor bugs.

 

In the one year I've been running OSF I'd say the advantages of a quieter motor and the flexibility in tailoring the motor response, far outweigh the odd software glitch.

 

Having said that if you are happy with the OEM setup then don't bother with OSF unless you like tinkering just for the hell of it.

 

The one loss with the stock firmware is the surging effect at higher cadence and power levels.. The torque sensor is quite sensitive and adjusts quickly.. Im guessing the mod has a smoother way of adjusting power and less responsive to small changes in foot pressure. And likely more efficient also due to not needing to adjust power so often.

Put the TSDZ2 on a Raleigh Mixte about six weeks ago. This week I started testing the firmware options. I first got familiar with the visual STM tool to write the eco-cycle 48V "stock" firmware and the bike still worked.

 

Today, I used embrusa's configurator tool with his current 48V file. It took me a few tries before I figured out the options for an active throttle. During this. I decided to go back to the stock firmware above, to ensure my throttle worked, and when I did, the TSDZ2 did not work at all. No speedometer, battery said dead, and no assist from throttle or pedal assist. A little worried now, but I had loaded those files earlier, so probably pilot error.

 

I went back to the embrusa loads, and this time got the throttle to work, but no speedometer. On the OEM firmware, I had been using a magnet spacing of 1.5 cm on the speed sensor. Anything less was giving me a jumpy speedometer. I set it to about 4mm space, and the speedometer came alive again. The new firmware must adjust the sensitivity on that sensor? Or the sensor cooled down when I took the bike outside from 18C in garage to 5C.

 

That was enough. It's cold here, 5C, and I was done. Got a working speedometer and throttle, and seems like I just have to test ride the assist levels. Still have a puzzle of why I cannot get back to factory default, to be solved later.

 

Here's my question. How to change power modes from the display? I take it I have to enable changes in zero assist mode. Then in either level 2 or 3, I can select a given power mode. Is there a video tutorial for the VLCD5? Do I even want to change modes. Probably not, but want to see it work.

Edited November 12, 20223 yr by harrys

I have the vlcd6 which doesn't do anything like mode changes - [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] might know about the vlcd5 though?

I believe the VLCD6 can do it too, but its awkward, Found a youtube video for the VLCD6, but I could not tell what the guy was doing because there were no words..

 

Today, I did "[x] Set parameter on startup on the configurator" and reloaded the TSDZ2. Now I could enter the mode change directly by pressing my "light" button. I believe it will work, but I had unchecked the throttle. Bummer. It was too cold at 3C to go test it,

 

Rolled back the stock firmware with the visual STM tool just to make sure I could do it. I couldn't. Battery display read 1 bar. Motor didn't work. Bricked. I had saved off a copy of the original option bytes file. When reprogrammed the motor with that, it unbricked.

 

Now I Took it for a ride in cold weather. It's the 750W stock firmware, an improvement over my original 500W settings. If we get a sunny day. I'll try the enbrusa load again,

Put the TSDZ2 on a Raleigh Mixte about six weeks ago. This week I started testing the firmware options. I first got familiar with the visual STM tool to write the eco-cycle 48V "stock" firmware and the bike still worked.

 

Today, I used embrusa's configurator tool with his current 48V file. It took me a few tries before I figured out the options for an active throttle. During this. I decided to go back to the stock firmware above, to ensure my throttle worked, and when I did, the TSDZ2 did not work at all. No speedometer, battery said dead, and no assist from throttle or pedal assist. A little worried now, but I had loaded those files earlier, so probably pilot error.

 

I went back to the embrusa loads, and this time got the throttle to work, but no speedometer. On the OEM firmware, I had been using a magnet spacing of 1.5 cm on the speed sensor. Anything less was giving me a jumpy speedometer. I set it to about 4mm space, and the speedometer came alive again. The new firmware must adjust the sensitivity on that sensor? Or the sensor cooled down when I took the bike outside from 18C in garage to 5C.

 

That was enough. It's cold here, 5C, and I was done. Got a working speedometer and throttle, and seems like I just have to test ride the assist levels. Still have a puzzle of why I cannot get back to factory default, to be solved later.

 

Here's my question. How to change power modes from the display? I take it I have to enable changes in zero assist mode. Then in either level 2 or 3, I can select a given power mode. Is there a video tutorial for the VLCD5? Do I even want to change modes. Probably not, but want to see it work.

 

I also had problems with the speedometer not working when I had "odometer compensation" enabled. Try to disable it, then it might work again. In general, I have disabled the data display in VLCD5 and the parameter configuarion as well as it is quite confusing as to what data is displayed. If I disable both, only the battery level is displayed at startup. And I find it much better to configure everything with the Java program on my laptop, because you can always start with the last change by loading it at the beginning (the file with the latest date at the bottom).

It took a couple of runs thru the STM viusal linke before I understood what I was doing. I wiped out the original program and data files on the motor. Wish I had saved them off. The "stock files" from eco-cycle are not quite the same. Their tutorial should have had us save off those files from a first time use with the motor too.

 

There is definitely something gpoing on with the reading of the speed sensor in the embrusa firmware. When I use it, I have to move the magnet closer. When I revert to "stock", I have to move it away again.I did tyrn off display daya, and enabled cgange parameters. That is less confusing/ but I had to quit nefore I could explore it further.

,

With the temperature back to a seasonal 4C high. it gets too hard to be programming my bike in the cold. and doing test rides. I want to see if the 36V option will work with a 48V battery, because I have both types.

It took a couple of runs thru the STM viusal linke before I understood what I was doing. I wiped out the original program and data files on the motor. Wish I had saved them off. The "stock files" from eco-cycle are not quite the same. Their tutorial should have had us save off those files from a first time use with the motor too.

 

There is definitely something gpoing on with the reading of the speed sensor in the embrusa firmware. When I use it, I have to move the magnet closer. When I revert to "stock", I have to move it away again.I did tyrn off display daya, and enabled cgange parameters. That is less confusing/ but I had to quit nefore I could explore it further.

,

With the temperature back to a seasonal 4C high. it gets too hard to be programming my bike in the cold. and doing test rides. I want to see if the 36V option will work with a 48V battery, because I have both types.

Forget stock firmware and ST Link software, you just need it to test if the USB connection is working properly. You need just the Emmebrusa Java UI tool to set all needed parameters, I flashed it already plenty of times always without any issue. A couple of hints: disable "Street Mode" set at sartup since it restricts the power of you TSDZ2 tremendously. Set "Advanced Torque Sensor" and "Field Wakening". And set the maximum speed in the Java tool, which should not be taken over by the display. Nothing else. I use eMTB assist mode with following values for all four stages: 4 - 8 -12 - 16. Works like a charm with Emmebrusa, you never want to go back to stock software, believe me....

Tbh I don't think there is a need for saving stock firmware settings , just plug away and make numerous firmware changes till you are happy with the ride input and feel. For me I'm using hybrid mode for my trailer towing, quite good low torque and acceleration from standstill at a low cadence and then good input once on the go with TS and a higher cadence and pedal pressure.

As mentioned street mode needs to be disabled other wise the power is pants.

 

One upgrade worth doing is to add an extra sealed bearing on each side, one in the spider and the other behind the LH seal.

The voltages afaik are not transferable so a 48v battery is likely to smoke a 36v controller, one can fit a 48v controller as they are one and the same in fitting and one will then have more then the 96rpm max pedal/cadence roatation. Tbh I think if one is buying one then simply opt for the 48v model, the only difference in wattage is the current setting.

Tbh I don't think there is a need for saving stock firmware settings , just plug away and make numerous firmware changes till you are happy with the ride input and feel. For me I'm using hybrid mode for my trailer towing, quite good low torque and acceleration from standstill at a low cadence and then good input once on the go with TS and a higher cadence and pedal pressure.

As mentioned street mode needs to be disabled other wise the power is pants.

 

One upgrade worth doing is to add an extra sealed bearing on each side, one in the spider and the other behind the LH seal.

Why do you need extra sealed bearings? Which ones? Do you have a link?

I have only done the thermal conductivity upgrade with silicone pads...

The extra bearing each side is to support the axle against lateral movement and to ward off the axle snapping beyond the circlip groove. Each bearing is placed on the outer position of the circlip to give the extra support.

#425, #433 & #436details in below thread.

My Cargo bike build. | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community

Edited November 14, 20223 yr by Nealh