September 4, 20232 yr Author This from Andy at Woosh: "Error 30 could be one of several things, the display, the controller, or the loom that runs between them. The most likely culprit would be the display. Do you want to send it in and we'll check it out for you?" I noticed that there are a number of connectors coming out of the controller that are not connected to anything, but I guess that's normal There is also one, with three wires, inside a thick, black cover (see pic) that is unconnected. There is a compatible one coming from the controller, but, when they are connected, nothing happens. A couple of the connectors from the controller (the metal 'bullet' ones) seem to be rusty. It's difficult to disconnect them, due to the plastic protector over them. Indeed, upon disconnecting the blue one, the wire came out, but I expect I can reconnect it somehow.
September 4, 20232 yr Shouldn't there be a cautionary note of big CAPS for people dauted by the thought of connecting outer cables, I have personally slipped before and shorted the ground to positive, before going inside I may add. It's a nasty flash at best & I counted myself lucky, slightly brown pants was a relief more than an embarrassment. Now, & only if I really need to, which is not often as most of the time the motor /cable is at fault. I switch the LCD on without battery a few times whether this method is a sound way to discharge the CAPS or not I will never know due to my extra caution. [is this a good method?] Please don't forget some folks might not be as savvy as others. You must have got a big flash because the battery was still connected. The capacitors don't do that. If they have any charge in them, you just get a snap noise to let you know something happened. You're right, you could discharge them by switching on the LCD, but I'd short the battery wires afterwards anyway, just to make sure.
September 4, 20232 yr This from Andy at Woosh: "Error 30 could be one of several things, the display, the controller, or the loom that runs between them. The most likely culprit would be the display. Do you want to send it in and we'll check it out for you?" I noticed that there are a number of connectors coming out of the controller that are not connected to anything, but I guess that's normal There is also one, with three wires, inside a thick, black cover (see pic) that is unconnected. There is a compatible one coming from the controller, but, when they are connected, nothing happens. A couple of the connectors from the controller (the metal 'bullet' ones) seem to be rusty. It's difficult to disconnect them, due to the plastic protector over them. Indeed, upon disconnecting the blue one, the wire came out, but I expect I can reconnect it somehow. you can send Andy what you want him to test to rule out some possible causes. It won't take him long to check the parts you send in and can help you pinpoint the fault.
September 4, 20232 yr Author I've asked Andy to simply send me a new display and controller. I'd prefer the cost over the time.
September 4, 20232 yr This from Andy at Woosh: "Error 30 could be one of several things, the display, the controller, or the loom that runs between them. The most likely culprit would be the display. Do you want to send it in and we'll check it out for you?" I noticed that there are a number of connectors coming out of the controller that are not connected to anything, but I guess that's normal There is also one, with three wires, inside a thick, black cover (see pic) that is unconnected. There is a compatible one coming from the controller, but, when they are connected, nothing happens. A couple of the connectors from the controller (the metal 'bullet' ones) seem to be rusty. It's difficult to disconnect them, due to the plastic protector over them. Indeed, upon disconnecting the blue one, the wire came out, but I expect I can reconnect it somehow. The blue would have been a phase wire , rust or a poor wire contact may have been the reason for your issues.
September 4, 20232 yr Author Is it okay to cut away the melted plastic and have a look at those connections? I must say, the blue wire coming from the controller compartment is not very long.
September 4, 20232 yr Yes you can remove the plastic , they will need some new insulation or simply cut back to new clean wire and solder direct to each other with a bit of shrink slid up the wire first.
September 4, 20232 yr Author Yes you can remove the plastic , they will need some new insulation or simply cut back to new clean wire and solder direct to each other with a bit of shrink slid up the wire first. Thank you. I'll be able to connect that okay, if I can get a new controller. For now, I've cleaned the connection and secured it. I've now checked all connections - still error 30.
September 4, 20232 yr Error 30 will persist with failed mosfets. Problem with error 30 is anything can cause it but often it is a comm's fault.
September 4, 20232 yr Author It seems to me strange that Andy would consider the display to be the likely suspect, given the evidence.
September 4, 20232 yr The error codes are on page 11 of the KM529 LCD manual. Download it here: https://wooshbikes.co.uk/manuals/KM-529-LCD-Display.pdf You initially reported error 23. 23 Motor Abnormality. Inspect if motor phrase is well-connected; Inspect if lines are well-connected between motor phrases and controller. Motor phase wires are the thick yellow green blue wires and you inspect also the motor cable connector. You did that already. You later reported error 30. 30 Communication Abnormality Inspect if lines are well-connected between display and controller. Error 30 shows up when the 5V supply is compromised. This can be caused by a sensor or LCD or dead controller (which generates the 5V). It is the most difficult to diagnose at home if you don't have a second working bike to swap components over. It's better if you could post some pictures. A rusty contact is undesirable and needs to be fixed but not probably the only cause.
September 4, 20232 yr It's difficult to identify the root cause of your failure because there is often consequential damage. If the motor connector isn't in all the way, the motor stalls, the current goes right up, melts the wires and blows the MOSFETs. Likewise, a slightly loose bullet connector gets contact resistance, heats up, melts the wire, shorts to another one and blows the MOSFETs. Anything that stalls the motor, even going up a veery steep hill too slowly can cause the same problems.
September 4, 20232 yr because the battery was still connected Aye it could of been a snap, there was defo no battery connected, either way I pooed a little.
September 4, 20232 yr Author There's a bike repairer just half a mile from us who has done some conversions. I might ask him to install the new components. Is insulation tape okay for those blue, green and yellow connections?
September 4, 20232 yr There's a bike repairer just half a mile from us who has done some conversions. I might ask him to install the new components. Is insulation tape okay for those blue, green and yellow connections? Heat-shrink tube is a lot better. I'd put two layers on just to be sure.
September 5, 20232 yr Author I just remembered that my wife's old ebike would have had the same display as mine, and it did. I tried it, but with the same result - no power, error code 30. So, I wait for the (almost) new controller.
September 5, 20232 yr Bike all good again. Thanks everyone! So, can you confirm what caused the original problem? Were the bullet connectors melted enough to touch? Was it a loose bullet that caused it to over-heat or was it the motor connector not in far enough? I'm pretty sure that your blown MOSFET was a consequence of one of those problems, not the cause. Going up hills too slowly under full power can also cause the wires to melt and/or the MOSFETs to blow directly. For anybody else, if your motor becomes intermittent or misfires, you must never try to give it full power because that will blow one or more of the MOSFETs in the controller. When it cuts out, it's a natural reaction to give more throttle or keep pedalling, but that's fatal for the controller.
September 5, 20232 yr Author I spoke too soon. I now have no pedal assist, but the throttle takes it up to 20.5mph ?
September 5, 20232 yr I spoke too soon. I now have no pedal assist, but the throttle takes it up to 20.5mph ? As long as the throttle works, no harm will come when you ride the bike. Possibilities: 1. The pedal sensor isn't turning properly. 2. Bad connection. 3. Wires in the wrong sequence to match each side of the connector. 4. Controller has wrong setting for type of sensor 5. Controller setting has switched off the pedal sensor 6. Controller works with opposite rotating sensor - works when you pedal backwards. Which type of pedal sensor and connector do you have?
September 5, 20232 yr Author As long as the throttle works, no harm will come when you ride the bike. Possibilities: 1. The pedal sensor isn't turning properly. 2. Bad connection. 3. Wires in the wrong sequence to match each side of the connector. 4. Controller has wrong setting for type of sensor 5. Controller setting has switched off the pedal sensor 6. Controller works with opposite rotating sensor - works when you pedal backwards. Which type of pedal sensor and connector do you have? The sensor and everything are just as they were when all was fine. there are a few wires/connectors that have no corresponding matches coming out of the controller. eg one with red, black and white wires from controller compartment, the closest from the controller has red, black and yellow. What I really need is a colour diagram, or even just written details telling me what to connect to what.
September 5, 20232 yr What I really need is a colour diagram, or even just written details telling me what to connect to what. Send Andy a picture and mark the wires you need to know, he'll tell you.
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