Hi We've got 3 Swytch kits (gen 2) - 2 of which work faultlessly and are great to use. One did work but is now an endless cycle of intermittent on/off working....TBH I think it's the handlebar connector as we have swapped out everything else and have 4 working battery packs. I also have a gen 1 non working Pro battery pack (the massive ones) which I forgot to top up charge and it seems to have died - it's not to hand at the moment and is buried somewhere in my storage unit. I also have a spare gen 2 battery pack which holds charge but I think has a dead controller. Does anyone know if the gen 1 and gen 2 controllers are interchangeable (either a straight swap or a swap with some minor tweaking)? I was thinking about trying to cobble something together from both old kits and using the gen 2 Pro battery cell pack maybe rear or frame mounted. I use the Swytch kit on an old Giant Bowery single speed which as it's really light so it works a treat and the range is very good too so any advice to get it going would be great. I contacted Swytch but they don't seem to have any info on Gen 1 these days. Thanks.

Hi. There’s very little knowledge remaining regatding swytch gen 1. I’ve attached a picture of a gen 1 controller and also a gen 2 controller. You can see the plug arrangement is very different.

Hi We've got 3 Swytch kits (gen 2) - 2 of which work faultlessly and are great to use. One did work but is now an endless cycle of intermittent on/off working....TBH I think it's the handlebar connector as we have swapped out everything else and have 4 working battery packs.

 

My Gen 2 Eco battery just died. Do you have any links for replacement batteries I should buy?

The picture of the generation 1 unit is in fact a picture of the Battery unit. In my generation 1 pack the controller was separate. When the battery died I just replaced with an external generic 36V Yose battery directly powering the controller by twin thick gauge wire (was in fact hifi speaker cable). The bike continues to work ok using a variety of 36V batteries (eg the Yose and Bosch lawnmower types of varying capacities).

The picture of the generation 1 unit is in fact a picture of the Battery unit. In my generation 1 pack the controller was separate. When the battery died I just replaced with an external generic 36V Yose battery directly powering the controller by twin thick gauge wire (was in fact hifi speaker cable). The bike continues to work ok using a variety of 36V batteries (eg the Yose and Bosch lawnmower types of varying capacities).

For those who want to copy this idea, you should use 14g wire.

 

That's to put a put a number on it because "thick" has different meanings to different people.

I also want to change out the battery, I have a large capacity 36V. I'm not sure what gen my system is, but only a year old or so (pics attached). I have the handlebar mount, the battery has 4 spade connectors (female), and the 2 charging ports. I was going to solder female spade connectors to my own 36V battery, but I'm not 100% sure of the orientation of the connectors, and why 4? Sure there are just two connections from the battery? Thanks

Just tried measuring voltages on the four pins, either getting zero volts or fluctuating voltages across the pins. Makes me think there's a BMS to contend with, may not be possible to use own battery...

 

also discussed here:

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/swytch-battery-diy-upgrade.45488/

Just tried measuring voltages on the four pins, either getting zero volts or fluctuating voltages across the pins. Makes me think there's a BMS to contend with, may not be possible to use own battery...

 

also discussed here:

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/swytch-battery-diy-upgrade.45488/

Every battery has its own BMS. If you can't measure voltage on the Swytch battery, it's because it's switched off. Don't they have a power button somewhere? Most batteries only use the outer two blades as the connectors for power. Some manufacturers use the middle ones for whatever they want, like a remote power switch, lights, data, etc. You must look to see which blades have wires soldered to them on the controller side. By convention, the one with the thick red is the positive, and the thick black is the negative. Once you know which is which, you can connect your battery with spade connectors you will probably get a big spark and zap noise when you connect. It's a bit scary, but nothing to worry about. If your battery has its own switch, you won't get the spark if you connect when it's switched off.

Theres a power button on the display. I've taken the mount apart. There are just two wires red and black from the controller. Annoyingly the wires aren't exposed on the controller side to directly see how they are connected to the battery terminals. The inner terminals are shorted - common ground? Not sure about the outers. I can connect the battery via some leads and take a spur off each for testing with the system on? Seems like the best way to get the polarity correct.

Theres a power button on the display. I've taken the mount apart. There are just two wires red and black from the controller. Annoyingly the wires aren't exposed on the controller side to directly see how they are connected to the battery terminals. The inner terminals are shorted - common ground? Not sure about the outers. I can connect the battery via some leads and take a spur off each for testing with the system on? Seems like the best way to get the polarity correct.

Isn't there a hidden power button in the bag somewhere, like near the charge socket?

Edited September 13, 20241 yr by saneagle

There's a battery test button - that wakes the battery. Looks like the centre pins are positive and one other is ground and one unused?

There's a battery test button - that wakes the battery. Looks like the centre pins are positive and one other is ground and one unused?

This thread is about gen 1 and 2 systems. Sorry, I forgot that yours is the new one. There's a separate thread that describes everything about that connector:

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/swytch-pro-max-yellow-battery-connector-secrets-revealed.46171/page-4

 

If you want to run a separate battery, it would be better to splice a connector into the two battery wires going in to the controller.

That's just the job! Thanks

Spliced the wires going into the controller - thanks for the suggestion. Added a 500Wh 36V battery - a very worthwhile upgrade. The bike can now run in the highest power mode, and I think the top speed has increased (entered a smaller wheel size to unlock). With a separate bike computer I'm measuring 35 km/hr on the flat in mode 5. Can also use the swytch battery as a backup. Added 4 piston calipers front and rear - definitely needed...

Hi all, don't know wether this is the right place but am looking for one of these from a swytch kit. not sure of the generation 1/2?, but a handlebar mount for the battery. I have no output from the mount to the red wire (to the PAS sensor) there is a 3v output to the white wire.... The sensor LED lights up but does not flash when pedaling. The magnet disc is fitted correctly...

Hi all, don't know wether this is the right place but am looking for one of these from a swytch kit. not sure of the generation 1/2?, but a handlebar mount for the battery. I have no output from the mount to the red wire (to the PAS sensor) there is a 3v output to the white wire.... The sensor LED lights up but does not flash when pedaling. The magnet disc is fitted correctly...

My advice with swytch kits is as soon as something goes wrong and you need to buy something, chuck the electrics. Just keep the motor, then you can have a nice controller and whatever battery you want to go as far and fast as you want at however hard you want to pedal, without further problems.

 

If your battery is OK and big enough for what you want, you can keep it in the bag and whatever holds it, and install a normal controller wired in the conventional way.

Spliced the wires going into the controller - thanks for the suggestion. Added a 500Wh 36V battery - a very worthwhile upgrade. The bike can now run in the highest power mode, and I think the top speed has increased (entered a smaller wheel size to unlock). With a separate bike computer I'm measuring 35 km/hr on the flat in mode 5. Can also use the swytch battery as a backup. Added 4 piston calipers front and rear - definitely needed...[ATTACH=full]60689[/ATTACH]

Hello , how did you splice the wire , which wire was it ? I thought had to connect cables to the pins as there is no battery in cable as the battery connects straight to the clip ? I think mine is same gen , looks same, thanks

There's a picture on this thread called 'connection' - it shows the black and red wires, I spliced these, hope that helps

There's a picture on this thread called 'connection' - it shows the black and red wires, I spliced these, hope that helps

Thanks , my swytch just failed today anyway so am replacing with a kt controller, 36v 15a max 8a rated hopefully last longer, I took the unit apart so can see where you mean, dunno what happened , went to go to the shop , base display was off , took a while to get on then started flashing then went off, then was hard to get back on and just did same when eventually did, now won't switch on at all , I'm guessing the 6a rated for the Swytch controller is too low , as I've seen on redit, someone went through four of them only lasting a few days each time, I do live in a hilly area and took it up some big hills to test it , but it was riding fine, problem only showed when I went to take it out again

Strange, I haven't had any problems (yet) been using mine for a couple of years with the standard battery, and a few weeks with the new battery. Can you post a link to the new controller? I might buy one as a backup!

 

There's limited space to do the splice and run cables in the standard housing (I ran a cable behind the controller and down through the hole in the base, but it's just about doable.

Strange, I haven't had any problems (yet) been using mine for a couple of years with the standard battery, and a few weeks with the new battery. Can you post a link to the new controller? I might buy one as a backup!

 

There's limited space to do the splice and run cables in the standard housing (I ran a cable behind the controller and down through the hole in the base, but it's just about doable.

Hi , the controller is called "EBike Thumb Throttle Speed Control For Electric Bike Bafang BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD UK " on ebay , is £8.99, not sure if will work but it did connect so don;t see why not , now I have to wait for my new controller and just read I could have got a 48v and would have been quicker ? seeing as I will prob have to buy a battery anyway(although I could wire the swytch battery somehow to the new controller ) may have been a better option to get a 48v controller, I will research now , thanks *edit, oh yeah is 48v also lol ooops is confusing , am getting there , slowly , lol

Strange, I haven't had any problems (yet) been using mine for a couple of years with the standard battery, and a few weeks with the new battery. Can you post a link to the new controller? I might buy one as a backup!

 

There's limited space to do the splice and run cables in the standard housing (I ran a cable behind the controller and down through the hole in the base, but it's just about doable.

I just connected back up and the strange thing is the motor turns with pas activated even with no display on , and won't switch on so now I'm not sure if is just the display ? the throttle does nothing , so not sure if is cos of issues with controller or is not compatible

I just connected back up and the strange thing is the motor turns with pas activated even with no display on , and won't switch on so now I'm not sure if is just the display ? the throttle does nothing , so not sure if is cos of issues with controller or is not compatible

Most LED and LCDs have nothing to do with the throttle, so if the throttle isn't working, you need to look elsewhere for the cause, though it could be that there's a common cause for both issues.

Hi

Most LED and LCDs have nothing to do with the throttle, so if the throttle isn't working, you need to look elsewhere for the cause, though it could be that there's a common cause for both issues.

, thanks yes I think the throttle will not work with swytch, to be fair I don't really need a throttle but thought be nice to add one and assumed most would work , I will return it , I just took the bike out for a ride and is working , but no display , not sure if the problem is with the display or the controller , I'm leaning towards controller , swytch have emailed me back about the issue although I didn't buy it from them , just the general basic checks , cables etc , have told them all looks good but no display, maybe they can point me in right direction , will prob just end up buying a complete controller kit that fits my wheel with a larger battery

Hi

 

, thanks yes I think the throttle will not work with swytch, to be fair I don't really need a throttle but thought be nice to add one and assumed most would work , I will return it , I just took the bike out for a ride and is working , but no display , not sure if the problem is with the display or the controller , I'm leaning towards controller , swytch have emailed me back about the issue although I didn't buy it from them , just the general basic checks , cables etc , have told them all looks good but no display, maybe they can point me in right direction , will prob just end up buying a complete controller kit that fits my wheel with a larger battery

The display works independently from the controller. All it needs is power, which it gets direct from the battery. Its power wires take a branch off the main battery wires inside the controller. It communicates with the controller regarding speed, power level and some other things.