Hi all,

 

First-time poster here. I’ve had my ebike just over 2 years and in that time I’ve covered nearly 4,500 km. I absolutely love riding it; it honestly feels like some of the best money I’ve ever spent.

 

My bike is an Eleglide M1 Plus (see here – it seems to have now been renamed the Mopride M1 Plus). It’s a Chinese import that’s very much at the budget end of the scale but it was all I could afford at the time and I’ve mostly been very happy with it.

 

I was all set to go out for a ride last weekend when I encountered a problem: as soon as I switched the bike on, the handlebar-mounted display came on but the charge level indicator showed zero despite the battery being fully charged. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and also the connection between the handlebar-mounted display and the battery, to no avail. I tested the battery’s output voltage using a multimeter and confirmed that the battery was indeed fully charged.

 

I rode the bike round the block, which confirmed that the rear hub motor still activated. However, the speedometer reading on the display remained at zero (as did the charge level indicator). I was able to cycle through the five available assist levels on the display but I have no idea whether this actually affected the power output by the motor.

 

I also have an app on my phone which connects to the handlebar-mounted display via Bluetooth. This has always worked without a hitch but now will not recognise or connect to the bike.

 

My initial assumption was that the handlebar-mounted unit has failed. No problem, I thought: a replacement unit only costs £27. Unfortunately the website shows it as being out of stock. I’ve been in touch with Eleglide by email and they’ve confirmed it’s out of stock, with an estimated restock time of two months. I wondered whether I might be able to source a compatible third-party model. (Eleglide said there are no such compatible models but I don’t know whether to believe them.) I did a bit of googling and quickly realised that’s not necessarily a straightforward question to answer.

 

It then occurred to me that it could conceivably be the controller that has failed rather than the handlebar-mounted unit. (My suspicion remains that it’s the handlebar-mounted unit because that’s the bit that’s Bluetooth-capable, and the Bluetooth connection with the app is no longer working.)

 

The controller is integrated into the battery cradle. The product page for the controller is here, and here’s a pic of it on my bike, together with a pic of the label:

 

 

The product page for the handlebar-mounted display is here, and here's a pic of it on my bike:

 

 

So, my first question is this: is there any reliable way to establish whether the problem lies with the controller or the handlebar-mounted display unit?

 

Very grateful in advance for any help.

 

 

Rob

Hi all,

 

First-time poster here. I’ve had my ebike just over 2 years and in that time I’ve covered nearly 4,500 km. I absolutely love riding it; it honestly feels like some of the best money I’ve ever spent.

 

My bike is an Eleglide M1 Plus (see here – it seems to have now been renamed the Mopride M1 Plus). It’s a Chinese import that’s very much at the budget end of the scale but it was all I could afford at the time and I’ve mostly been very happy with it.

 

I was all set to go out for a ride last weekend when I encountered a problem: as soon as I switched the bike on, the handlebar-mounted display came on but the charge level indicator showed zero despite the battery being fully charged. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and also the connection between the handlebar-mounted display and the battery, to no avail. I tested the battery’s output voltage using a multimeter and confirmed that the battery was indeed fully charged.

 

I rode the bike round the block, which confirmed that the rear hub motor still activated. However, the speedometer reading on the display remained at zero (as did the charge level indicator). I was able to cycle through the five available assist levels on the display but I have no idea whether this actually affected the power output by the motor.

 

I also have an app on my phone which connects to the handlebar-mounted display via Bluetooth. This has always worked without a hitch but now will not recognise or connect to the bike.

 

My initial assumption was that the handlebar-mounted unit has failed. No problem, I thought: a replacement unit only costs £27. Unfortunately the website shows it as being out of stock. I’ve been in touch with Eleglide by email and they’ve confirmed it’s out of stock, with an estimated restock time of two months. I wondered whether I might be able to source a compatible third-party model. (Eleglide said there are no such compatible models but I don’t know whether to believe them.) I did a bit of googling and quickly realised that’s not necessarily a straightforward question to answer.

 

It then occurred to me that it could conceivably be the controller that has failed rather than the handlebar-mounted unit. (My suspicion remains that it’s the handlebar-mounted unit because that’s the bit that’s Bluetooth-capable, and the Bluetooth connection with the app is no longer working.)

 

The controller is integrated into the battery cradle. The product page for the controller is here, and here’s a pic of it on my bike, together with a pic of the label:

 

[ATTACH type=full" width="287px" alt="64368]64368[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type=full" width="387px" alt="64369]64369[/ATTACH]

 

The product page for the handlebar-mounted display is here, and here's a pic of it on my bike:

 

[ATTACH type=full" width="300px" alt="64370]64370[/ATTACH]

 

So, my first question is this: is there any reliable way to establish whether the problem lies with the controller or the handlebar-mounted display unit?

 

Very grateful in advance for any help.

 

 

Rob

This is the situation for most Chinese bikes. I'd need to see your wiring to confirm that it's the same for yours:

 

The LCD works independently from the controller, though when you operate the switch to switch on the LCD, the LCD then switches on the power to the controller. In other words, the LCD is the switch for the controller. Once the controller is switched on, the two devices share information, so the selections you make on the LCD are sent to the controller and the controller sends info about current, voltage and speed to the LCD.

 

If the controller is fully functional, the bike will still work without the LCD connected as long as you bridge the red and the blue wires in the connector. In that mode, you get level 1 pedal assist and normal throttle operation (if you have one).

 

Bearing in mind the above, it looks like the LCD is not receiving info from the controller, which indicates that either the Rx wire has been pulled off the LCDs PCB, or it's broken in the cable, or you have water in the LCD interfering with that function. If the LCD has screws to dismantle it, it would be worth looking inside it.

 

The LCD will be a standard catalogue item, not specific to Eleglide. Look on the back of it to see if there are any intentification marks.

Even if one found the same display , it will unlikely be compatible as the firmware/software/programming will be different.

A broken wire also may be the fault, it isn't uncommon for one to break or become detached inside the display.

 

If the controller failed then the hub wouldn't work.

The Bt App fault will be with the display as this is where commands are sent t to and from the controller.

There are far better informed experts around here than me (I'm a user not an expert) but if it was mine, I would examine and wiggle every connector in the wiring harness and make certain that they are fully plugged in and look like they have good connection. If there is a line on any of the plugs - especially the motor connector, make sure that it is plugged in right up to the line, if there is one. I have seen a lot of weird faults of all kinds in postings here from new users which were solved by that one action - making sure the motor plug is fully home and right up to the line.

 

From what you say this is likely a communications fault, so maybe a dirty plug or one where a bit of water has got in, might be the first line of investigation. We have likely all seen electrical issues in our lives that just required a socket or connector to be wiggled and pushed snugly home to clear up the symptoms.

 

None of that is highly technical or beyond any user, so try the suggestion and let us know what happened. Report anything you notice that is incompatible with good electrical contact such as water ingress, corrosion of contacts etc.

 

EDIT: This post crossed with saneagles and Neil's. I wouldn't have posted if theirs had been here when I started typing. The suggestions are simple to carry out and are probably worth a try though.

 

Reading the OP's post though it looks like communications to the display are compromised.

Edited September 16, 2025Sep 16 by Tony1951

An incidental tug on the display cable may cause a wire to become detached.

A twist of the bars and a tight cable another scenario.

An incidental tug on the display cable may cause a wire to become detached.

A twist of the bars and a tight cable another scenario.

 

Yes -

 

Also possible cable damage from over tight zip ties, breaking the inner cable or the outer plastic shielding and letting water inside.

Thanks for taking the time to reply, I appreciate it.

 

If the controller is fully functional, the bike will still work without the LCD connected as long as you bridge the red and the blue wires in the connector. In that mode, you get level 1 pedal assist and normal throttle operation (if you have one).

 

This may indeed be the case, since if I ride the bike the motor does indeed activate. (The bike did come with an optional throttle but I didn't install it.)

 

Bearing in mind the above, it looks like the LCD is not receiving info from the controller, which indicates that either the Rx wire has been pulled off the LCDs PCB, or it's broken in the cable, or you have water in the LCD interfering with that function. If the LCD has screws to dismantle it, it would be worth looking inside it.

 

The LCD will be a standard catalogue item, not specific to Eleglide. Look on the back of it to see if there are any intentification marks.

 

From memory there are neither screws nor distinguishing marks on the LCD. I'll confirm this once I've had chance to have another look tomorrow morning.

A lot of displays are glued , one can use a hair dryer or similar and a thin blade to pry the top off.

Many thanks for replying, I appreciate it.

 

A broken wire also may be the fault, it isn't uncommon for one to break or become detached inside the display.

 

If the controller failed then the hub wouldn't work.

The Bt App fault will be with the display as this is where commands are sent t to and from the controller.

 

If I'm understanding correctly, either the display is cooked or a connection between the controller and the display is broken, right?

 

Even if one found the same display , it will unlikely be compatible as the firmware/software/programming will be different.

 

If that's the case, if it is the display that's at fault, my only option would be to wait until the manufacturer gets them back in stock

If that's the case, if it is the display that's at fault, my only option would be to wait until the manufacturer gets them back in stock

It's better to not order anything until after you've discovered the fault.

Thanks for replying, I appreciate it.

 

There are far better informed experts around here than me (I'm a user not an expert) but if it was mine, I would examine and wiggle every connector in the wiring harness and make certain that they are fully plugged in and look like they have good connection. If there is a line on any of the plugs - especially the motor connector, make sure that it is plugged in right up to the line, if there is one. I have seen a lot of weird faults of all kinds in postings here from new users which were solved by that one action - making sure the motor plug is fully home and right up to the line.

 

From what you say this is likely a communications fault, so maybe a dirty plug or one where a bit of water has got in, might be the first line of investigation. We have likely all seen electrical issues in our lives that just required a socket or connector to be wiggled and pushed snugly home to clear up the symptoms.

 

I already did that with the connector between the hub motor and the controller and the one between the LCD display and the controller. Are you suggesting I should also do it with all the other connectors (brakes, front light, etc.)?

A lot of displays are glued , one can use a hair dryer or similar and a thin blade to pry the top off.

 

Thanks. I'll report back in the morning when I've removed the display from the bike and had a closer look.

General question for anyone: my forum preferences seem to suggest that I should receive an email notification whenever someone replies to something I've posted, yet I haven't received any email notifications at all. (I've checked that they haven't gone to spam.) Is there a known issue with the email notification system?

General question for anyone: my forum preferences seem to suggest that I should receive an email notification whenever someone replies to something I've posted, yet I haven't received any email notifications at all. (I've checked that they haven't gone to spam.) Is there a known issue with the email notification system?

 

Click on your name , Top Right.

Scroll down to settings LHS.

Click on Preferences and check the email box and content options.

 

If I'm understanding correctly, either the display is cooked or a connection between the controller and the display is broken, right?

 

 

Could be a faulty connection in the display, possibly comms affecting BT signal ?

Thanks for replying, I appreciate it.

 

 

 

I already did that with the connector between the hub motor and the controller and the one between the LCD display and the controller. Are you suggesting I should also do it with all the other connectors (brakes, front light, etc.)?

 

If it were mine, I would be especially interested in the connection between the controller and the display unit. Maybe water has got into it.... Who knows?

 

I also think other comments here about breaks in the wires that go to the display are possible causes, even likely ones. These are simply trouble shooting possibilities to maybe iron out why your display doesn't work while the rest of the bikes seems to.

 

Good luck.

If it were mine, I would be especially interested in the connection between the controller and the display unit. Maybe water has got into it.... Who knows?

 

I also think other comments here about breaks in the wires that go to the display are possible causes, even likely ones. These are simply trouble shooting possibilities to maybe iron out why your display doesn't work while the rest of the bikes seems to.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks, I'll try to have a proper look in the morning. As to breaks in the wires, should I just be looking for obvious, visible holes or splits?

Click on your name , Top Right.

Scroll down to settings LHS.

Click on Preferences and check the email box and content options.

 

Yes, done that: everything appears to be checked as it should be. I did get one single email notification about an hour ago, alerting me to one of the replies here. But no others.

Thanks, I'll try to have a proper look in the morning. As to breaks in the wires, should I just be looking for obvious, visible holes or splits?

 

Wires sometimes break in an obvious way and sometimes not so clear. One way to avoid it is to make sure they don't get pinched too tightly where they are secured with zip ties and that the routing of cables allows enough slack so they don't get pulled hard when the handlebars are turned to full lock.

 

I'd kind of hoped there was a loose plug or an obvious water ingress problem, but in some ways you are looking for a needle in a haystack - though not that big a haystack really.

 

I say again - there are people here with vast experience of mending broken e-bikes, and that is not who I am. I only came in because your question seemed not to have had an answer. By the time I had finished typing, two others with much more experience had posted. I'd take notice of what they say.

Yes, done that: everything appears to be checked as it should be. I did get one single email notification about an hour ago, alerting me to one of the replies here. But no others.

Check your spam folder.

The more complicated the comm's the harder it is to fault find.

In over tens years I have used generic uart comm's systems and yet have not had a comm's issue.

We know CANbus is simply a dealer issue unless one has the necessary to deal with it.

Bt and phone Apps simply adds another layer of issues to over come.

 

The most common results over the years with comm's has simply led to in quite a few cases either wire break in the display that needs resoldering to a pad.

Water ingress in the display causing shorting out.

Occasionally the main trunk cable becomes damaged, smaller thin wires inside the outer sheathing can be compromised by either over tightening of said cable with cable ties or a severe bend in the cable somewhere (usually with internally routed cables exiting from the BB area.

Check your spam folder.

 

Done that: empty. I assume it must be a forum glitch.

Wires sometimes break in an obvious way and sometimes not so clear. One way to avoid it is to make sure they don't get pinched too tightly where they are secured with zip ties and that the routing of cables allows enough slack so they don't get pulled hard when the handlebars are turned to full lock.

 

I'd kind of hoped there was a loose plug or an obvious water ingress problem, but in some ways you are looking for a needle in a haystack - though not that big a haystack really.

 

Just been having a look and not found any obvious needles in this particular haystack. (Will post separate update below.)

 

I say again - there are people here with vast experience of mending broken e-bikes, and that is not who I am. I only came in because your question seemed not to have had an answer. By the time I had finished typing, two others with much more experience had posted. I'd take notice of what they say.

 

Everyone here knows far more than I do, so I'm doing my best to take all advice on board

Following everyone's advice, I've unplugged and inspected all the connectors I can find on the bike (controller to LCD, brakes and hub motor). Everything looks to be in order: no sign of obvious damage to pins or water ingress, and all connectors are pushed together as snugly as they will go. I also can't see any sign of external damage to cables.

 

I took the LCD off to see if I could find any identifying information. Here's what I found on the rear:

 

 

Googling the company and model name draws a blank. There are no screws anywhere on the body of the LCD so I'm assuming it's glued together. Not sure I like the idea of trying to prize it apart – I'd be worried about doing irreparable damage to it in the process.

 

Another thing I noticed when powering on the bike this morning: when I first power it on at the LCD, the battery charge indicator shows full for a split second, then immediately shows empty.

 

Also, the PAS level, which normally indicates zero on startup, reads "F". I have no idea what this means: I haven't found any reference to it in the manual (error codes are E followed by a two -digit number) or online.

 

Not sure how to proceed from here. The company has now told me they hope to have the LCD back in stock next week.

I would be tempted to check the continuity of the cable from the display to the controller. I suspect there will be a plug at both ends.

 

Unplug both ends. One end will have male connector and the other end will be female. Put one probe of the multimeter on one of the pins on the male end and stick a needle/safety pin or similar in the corresponding pin of the female end. Check for continuity of each core. If all is fine then you have discounted the cable as being faulty.