Hello everyone. I am after a new ebike around £1000 mark.

 

I have narrowed it down to four and wondered what your opinions of them are? I have no preference as to whether it is a walk through frame or traditional style of bike. All I ask it that it can carry panniers and do at least 50 miles per charge.

 

1. Engwe P275 se. £799

2. Fiido C11 pro. £999

3. RCB G5. £749

4. Cyrusher Voyage. £1099

 

Thoughts and thanks.

I would avoid the RCB with its NFC security device. Big trouble if that breaks.

 

Fiido are online only, but reports on here have been favourable so don't rule it out.

 

Nothing to distinguish any of them really. But a reliable 50 mile range on 500Wh or so of battery? I don't think so! You'll get 50 miles on flat terrain, no wind, low assist. But if you want more help or in adverse conditions expect 30 miles or so.

 

Look for a bigger battery, or a second battery available at a sensible price.

What type of riding? On-road or off? How hilly is it where you want to ride? How heavy and fit are you? Do you want the bike to give lots of help or just a little extra assist?

What type of riding? On-road or off? How hilly is it where you want to ride? How heavy and fit are you? Do you want the bike to give lots of help or just a little extra assist?

 

Mainly roads, country lanes, cycle paths and canal towpaths.

I would avoid the RCB with its NFC security device. Big trouble if that breaks.

 

Fiido are online only, but reports on here have been favourable so don't rule it out.

 

Nothing to distinguish any of them really. But a reliable 50 mile range on 500Wh or so of battery? I don't think so! You'll get 50 miles on flat terrain, no wind, low assist. But if you want more help or in adverse conditions expect 30 miles or so.

 

Look for a bigger battery, or a second battery available at a sensible price.

 

Good shout about the NFC. I never thought of that.

 

I am getting to try out an Engwe P275 se this evening as my wife is letting me use hers for work.

When so many bikes are so similar, that might be a case of 'better the devil you know '!

When so many bikes are so similar, that might be a case of 'better the devil you know '!

I rode my wife's new Engwe P275 se into work for 8 miles tonight and was very impressed. First thoughts are how powerful and responsive it is. I would put it on a par with my Bosch powered Haibike, but whether it stands the test of time like that has is another story I guess.

 

I will ride it some more tomorrow but at the £800 price point it definitely appears very good.

Edited February 1Feb 1 by Dupont

If you have an afternoon to spare and are competent changing a rear wheel tyre? have you considered scouring ebay, facebook etc for a fully spec'd bargain 2nd use bike upto £500 to match your personal taste and then fitting a conversion kit.. I would endorse a yose-power kit though if you have any special requirements perhaps try woosh who can provide uk based sales info/advice and support..

For a 50 mile range your probably looking at a 2 battery solution?

If you have an afternoon to spare and are competent changing a rear wheel tyre? have you considered scouring ebay, facebook etc for a fully spec'd bargain 2nd use bike upto £500 to match your personal taste and then fitting a conversion kit.. I would endorse a yose-power kit though if you have any special requirements perhaps try woosh who can provide uk based sales info/advice and support..

For a 50 mile range your probably looking at a 2 battery solution?

That would be my choice too, but the 48v bikes mentioned will be more powerful. My woosh kit with 36v 20 Ah battery and 36v 18a controller will easily do 50 miles range and is plenty powerful for me

Mainly roads, country lanes, cycle paths and canal towpaths.

We need to know your weight and what type of hills. Electric bikes don't have or give range. How much range YOU will get depends on your weight, the hills and how hard you pedal. If you hardly want to pedal, those bikes will do about 20 miles of mixed terrain with a 90kg rider. If you pedal hard like on a normal bike, you might be able to stretch it to 50 miles.

We need to know your weight and what type of hills. Electric bikes don't have or give range. How much range YOU will get depends on your weight, the hills and how hard you pedal. If you hardly want to pedal, those bikes will do about 20 miles of mixed terrain with a 90kg rider. If you pedal hard like on a normal bike, you might be able to stretch it to 50 miles.

I am 90kg and don't mind doing a lot of pedalling. I am happy using minimum assist on the flat but do want to use the juice on hills. I live in Staffordshire so the terrain is varied.

Camino MTB electric bicycle from Woosh £999. Range about 50 miles.

 

 

https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?camino

I was seriously impressed riding the Engwe P275 SE. A very nice ride!

 

It is now even cheaper at £749. The torque sensor on it is a game changer.

I like torque sensor too, but it also has its disadvantages. On steep hills, when you need more assist, you will need to pedal much harder because the motor output power is proportional to your pedalling input. Heavy riders would need a throttle.

I was seriously impressed riding the Engwe P275 SE. A very nice ride!

 

It is now even cheaper at £749. The torque sensor on it is a game changer.

That looks a nice bike, and a good price but a 36v 13 ah battery is not going to give you 50 miles range, especially 90 kg rider and some hills, I think I would want 36v 17 ah, maybe 20Ah for a bit of contingency (headwind, cold conditions)

 

The 100 km (62 miles) quoted will be for a light rider, on the flat at a slower speed in ideal conditions (eg warm and not windy)

That looks a nice bike, and a good price but a 36v 13 ah battery is not going to give you 50 miles range, especially 90 kg rider and some hills, I think I would want 36v 17 ah, maybe 20Ah for a bit of contingency (headwind, cold conditions)

 

The 100 km (62 miles) quoted will be for a light rider, on the flat at a slower speed in ideal conditions (eg warm and not windy)

 

35 miles is my absolute max these days no matter whatever the weather or terrain. I am usually ready for a pint by then.

35 miles is my absolute max these days no matter whatever the weather or terrain. I am usually ready for a pint by then.

That should be fine then :-)

One other important decision point is who's going to fix it when it goes wrong and how much will it cost. We get many people coming on this forum telling us that something is wrong with their bike and they think they need to replace some part that they can't get from anywhere. In some cases, they get a similar looking replacement part that still doesn’t work because it has hidden differences.

 

With that in mind, you should choose the one that has the most standard electrical parts (motor, battery, LCD and wiring). Things to avoid are torque sensors, any unusual battery arrangements and any system that uses CANbus comms.

The torque sensor on it is a game changer.

How? What are you comparing it with? What do you see as the advantages and disadvantages?

One other important decision point is who's going to fix it when it goes wrong and how much will it cost. We get many people coming on this forum telling us that something is wrong with their bike and they think they need to replace some part that they can't get from anywhere. In some cases, they get a similar looking replacement part that still doesn’t work because it has hidden differences.

 

With that in mind, you should choose the one that has the most standard electrical parts (motor, battery, LCD and wiring). Things to avoid are torque sensors, any unusual battery arrangements and any system that uses CANbus comms.

Why do torque sensors need to be avoided?

How? What are you comparing it with? What do you see as the advantages and disadvantages?

My Haibike is Bosch and has a cadence sensor. The Engwe with a torque sensors definitely picks up a lot quicker. It is instant power as soon as you need it.

My Haibike is Bosch and has a cadence sensor. The Engwe with a torque sensors definitely picks up a lot quicker. It is instant power as soon as you need it.

No, your Haibike has a Bosch mid-drive motor which has a highly sophisticated, proportional torque sensor, not a cadence sensor.

 

Depending on which motor, and I'm guessing a Haibike will be a PerformanceLine at least, it has pretty good maximum torque and a fairly high, I'm going to guess 300%, assistance factor in the highest Turbo setting: i.e. you do only 1/4 of the work, which is why it feels so easy.

 

The Engwe torque sensor may be a much simpler thing: essentially just an on/off switch, not an accurate measurer of your pedal input, and its benefit over a simple cadence sensor is that the motor can start immediately there is pressure on the pedals, it doesn't have to wait for a pulse from the cadence sensor or wheel magnet.

 

The Bosch and other big name mid-drive torque sensors were developed to give the delicacy of control needed to get a mountain bike through complex off-road terrain, and they do it very well. Hub motor commuter bikes don't need that, although they may well make an effort to be proportional - you may be able to tell from how it rides.

 

To your earlier question why do torque sensor ls need to be avoided, the answer is they don't. As you have seen, the controllability is so much better, so you can enjoy a nicer ride until it breaks. And maybe it won't!

 

If it does, you can do the same any other cheap bike, just replace the minimum of components with generic parts (controller and LCD) and downgrade to cadence sensor. Motor and battery would not need swapping.

 

Most bikes will last well if cared for and used regularly. Especially kept clean and dry.

No, your Haibike has a Bosch mid-drive motor which has a highly sophisticated, proportional torque sensor, not a cadence sensor.

 

Depending on which motor, and I'm guessing a Haibike will be a PerformanceLine at least, it has pretty good maximum torque and a fairly high, I'm going to guess 300%, assistance factor in the highest Turbo setting: i.e. you do only 1/4 of the work, which is why it feels so easy.

 

The Engwe torque sensor may be a much simpler thing: essentially just an on/off switch, not an accurate measurer of your pedal input, and its benefit over a simple cadence sensor is that the motor can start immediately there is pressure on the pedals, it doesn't have to wait for a pulse from the cadence sensor or wheel magnet.

 

The Bosch and other big name mid-drive torque sensors were developed to give the delicacy of control needed to get a mountain bike through complex off-road terrain, and they do it very well. Hub motor commuter bikes don't need that, although they may well make an effort to be proportional - you may be able to tell from how it rides.

 

To your earlier question why do torque sensor ls need to be avoided, the answer is they don't. As you have seen, the controllability is so much better, so you can enjoy a nicer ride until it breaks. And maybe it won't!

 

If it does, you can do the same any other cheap bike, just replace the minimum of components with generic parts (controller and LCD) and downgrade to cadence sensor. Motor and battery would not need swapping.

 

Most bikes will last well if cared for and used regularly. Especially kept clean and dry.

My Bosch has an Active Line Plus motor.

 

It is very powerful but I don't think it it kicks in with the power as quickly as the Engwe. It is 6 years old though with 1800 miles on it and not been serviced as I could never find anyone to do it. I finally found somewhere to do it so it is getting a software update as well and a new chain, chainring and cassette. Hopefully that improves it somewhat as I do like the bike. It has been bombproof with very few issues.

My Bosch has an Active Line Plus motor.

 

It is very powerful but I don't think it it kicks in with the power as quickly as the Engwe. It is 6 years old though with 1800 miles on it and not been serviced as I could never find anyone to do it. I finally found somewhere to do it so it is getting a software update as well and a new chain, chainring and cassette. Hopefully that improves it somewhat as I do like the bike. It has been bombproof with very few issues.

The starting off gear affects the power feeding in on the Bosch: the motor has to get into its efficient range just like the human's legs, so being in say the middle of the cassette from rest will feel a bit delayed compared to the lowest gear or two.

 

1800 miles is nothing, again with the proviso of if looked after. Expect at least 10 times that. I got 21,000 miles from my first Shimano motor, including four long Scottish winters of muddy, wet commuting in all weathers.

 

The pickup on the Engwe does sound like its version of torque sensor is essentially an on/off switch, which is all it needs and potentially very simple and so reliable.

The starting off gear affects the power feeding in on the Bosch: the motor has to get into its efficient range just like the human's legs, so being in say the middle of the cassette from rest will feel a bit delayed compared to the lowest gear or two.

 

1800 miles is nothing, again with the proviso of if looked after. Expect at least 10 times that. I got 21,000 miles from my first Shimano motor, including four long Scottish winters of muddy, wet commuting in all weathers.

 

The pickup on the Engwe does sound like its version of torque sensor is essentially an on/off switch, which is all it needs and potentially very simple and so reliable.

Yeah, considering the lack of a service it has been flawless until recently when the chain started coming off and jamming between the motor casing and the chain ring.

 

I just fancied a cheaper runaround ebike as well as the Bosch Haibike.