Recent content by Moto

When I upgraded to a conventional battery on the bike above I screwed a 5mm thick plastic mounting plate to the frame in the triangle and then mounted the batery holder on to that at a slight angle so it could slide in and out. Aesthetically it did not look good but I had plenty of clearance...

I did find the bottle battery vibrated a lot and found a good solution having it rest against a mudguard as per pic below. I don't ride particularly rough trails but with an electric motor fitted it is easy to travel at quite a brisk pace and hence any bumps hit harder. I do feel that seat post...

I fitted a BBS01 to an older Specialized FSR and it is brilliant, in my mind! Done nearly 2000 miles in the last year. Main problem was the battery as my shock is in a different position and the standar battery wouldn't fit. I used a bottle battery at first stuck on the seat post, which worked...

Just for interest, I have found that as my fitness increased the need for lower gears has gone and I quite often want a higher gear! Well, downhill anyway. One thing of note with the BBS01 is that it's power curve peaks at quite a low rpm, or at least quite a bit lower than my normal cadence...

Ah, yes my mistake. At that price, and made from softer aluminium I think I will look at other options ;)

Well.... actually the standard ring has quite a pronounced dish inwards to help the chain-line, so I can only assume a Bling ring would just move it out as its flat?

Interesting idea. I had a quick look at an old cassette and its easy enough to do, will have to look at the teeth spacing as I think only have 11t so would be a relatively big jump, I can see having a 13t top gear on the lock ring would be good.

I have fitted a BBS01 to an old Specialized Stumpjumper FSR and it's working well! I want to lower the gearing for off-road, but there doesn't seem to be a simple way to purchase a smaller chainring in the UK - I see 44t on eBay, but that is only 2 teeth down so not much help. The chain line...

OK... thanks for the reply. I think I am now perhaps more confused whether to go crank or hub.... Hub for road, crank for off-road I guess, just need to find a good compromise?

OK, so a 1000W direct drive is not really what I need, understood. Thank you for the very detailed and helpful reply Woosh. So I am curious why you suggest hub drive rather than crank, for my hilly stuff? I would prefer a hub for simplicity and the freedom to retain my front gears, but do need...

So, from the lack of further replies am I going to have to actually talk to a few suppliers rather than confuse myself with 10 wildly different opinions from a handful of prominent poster on the internet ?? ! ;) :cool:

Ah a voice of reason has spoken. Let me back-track - much that I would like 1000W of raw power, as I will be riding on public bridleways, and realistically some road, my aim is for a bike that still looks like a bicycle at this stage. I would like to buy a kit, from a UK seller, as I don't...

Thanks all for the replies, lots of things to consider then! I must admit that a hub drive was not in my head originally, but has me pondering.... Some of my hills are real nasty, see pic, but that's the exception. This bridleway out of Swanage I can only make it perhaps one 1 out of 5...

I've been reading the forum for a while now, and considering my next move. I ride pretty much only off-road and am looking to convert one of my bikes, either a Specialized Rockhopper or GT Avalanche, from around 2008, both 17.5" frames. They are both very good bikes and to me makes sense to...

Thanks! Here's my well-used GT, which *might* be the basis for a conversion....