Any tips for getting a replacement controller for a Juicy Classic?

[pnn]

I have a Juicy Classic which is great, but the controller (after 10 years of use) seems to have given up...
It's a Yuan Lang 36v YK325-2, which is now obsolete, driving a Bafang 250w motor.
Any ideas where I might get a replacement, or suggestions for an alternative?

Thanks, Paul

 

[saneagle]

I have a Juicy Classic which is great, but the controller (after 10 years of use) seems to have given up...
It's a Yuan Lang 36v YK325-2, which is now obsolete, driving a Bafang 250w motor.
Any ideas where I might get a replacement, or suggestions for an alternative?

Thanks, Paul

How did you come to the conclusion that the fault lies in the controller?

You can use any controller you want, which gives you a chance to make your bike much better.

 

[soundwave]

How did you come to the conclusion that the fault lies in the controller?

You can use any controller you want, which gives you a chance to make your bike much better.

Cascadia Rinehart PM150DX/DZ 150KW AC Motor Controller, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits

 

[pnn]

How did you come to the conclusion that the fault lies in the controller?

You can use any controller you want, which gives you a chance to make your bike much better.

Good question ... I don't have any suitable test equipment, so removed the display, controller and checked wiring for any abrasion. When I replaced everything there was a brief reconnection of power to the display, which then went back to showing power but not switching on the front light or any motor support. The wiring is fine (secured in place and no external damage) so I'm guessing that the controller has a duff capacitor or other component. The display is a simple sealed unit with push buttons for power setting and light switch, so not much to go wrong.

 

[pnn]

Cascadia Rinehart PM150DX/DZ 150KW AC Motor Controller, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits

An absolute bargain at only $9,360.00, but regrettably out of stock so I won't be ordering one.

 

[saneagle]

Good question ... I don't have any suitable test equipment, so removed the display, controller and checked wiring for any abrasion. When I replaced everything there was a brief reconnection of power to the display, which then went back to showing power but not switching on the front light or any motor support. The wiring is fine (secured in place and no external damage) so I'm guessing that the controller has a duff capacitor or other component. The display is a simple sealed unit with push buttons for power setting and light switch, so not much to go wrong.

You need to find out where the fault is by testing, otherwise it could become expensive and waste a lot of money. The testing is very easy if you have a meter. I can walk you through it if you want to have a go.

Controllers are normally pretty reliable. Most problems come from batteries and LCDs. Problems rarely come from nowhere. They typically have a cause, so think back about the circumstances at the time you experienced the failure. What happened.

It would help if you described your symptoms in detail from the start.

 

[pnn]

You need to find out where the fault is by testing, otherwise it could become expensive and waste a lot of money. The testing is very easy if you have a meter. I can walk you through it if you want to have a go.

Controllers are normally pretty reliable. Most problems come from batteries and LCDs. Problems rarely come from nowhere. They typically have a cause, so think back about the circumstances at the time you experienced the failure. What happened.

It would help if you described your symptoms in detail from the start.

Appreciate your offer - thank you.
The symptoms are that the display (a unit that shows power selection and battery charge level only - no LCD) shows a maximum power selection (3 red lights) and will not switch the motor on or the light. The motor has no pedal assist, and the battery shows a full charge (probably accurate as it is regularly recharged). The display is a sealed unit with no signs of damage, the wiring is in good condition with no abrasion and the connectors are all firmly seated.
When I removed the controller to check the wiring connections and replaced it, there was briefly (2 or 3 seconds) power to the motor, but this then reverted back to the failed state. I suspect a capacitor fault, but have no way of testing it.
All suggestions gratefully received!

 

[pnn]

Appreciate your offer - thank you.
The symptoms are that the display (a unit that shows power selection and battery charge level only - no LCD) shows a maximum power selection (3 red lights) and will not switch the motor on or the light. The motor has no pedal assist, and the battery shows a full charge (probably accurate as it is regularly recharged). The display is a sealed unit with no signs of damage, the wiring is in good condition with no abrasion and the connectors are all firmly seated.
When I removed the controller to check the wiring connections and replaced it, there was briefly (2 or 3 seconds) power to the motor, but this then reverted back to the failed state. I suspect a capacitor fault, but have no way of testing it.
All suggestions gratefully received!

Oh well, no advice forthcoming, so does anybody know of a good engineer near Norwich who could work on this for me? My amateur engineering is not up to the task

 

[saneagle]

Appreciate your offer - thank you.
The symptoms are that the display (a unit that shows power selection and battery charge level only - no LCD) shows a maximum power selection (3 red lights) and will not switch the motor on or the light. The motor has no pedal assist, and the battery shows a full charge (probably accurate as it is regularly recharged). The display is a sealed unit with no signs of damage, the wiring is in good condition with no abrasion and the connectors are all firmly seated.
When I removed the controller to check the wiring connections and replaced it, there was briefly (2 or 3 seconds) power to the motor, but this then reverted back to the failed state. I suspect a capacitor fault, but have no way of testing it.
All suggestions gratefully received!

If your motor worked for a short while, there's probably nothing wrong with the controller, and to put your mind at rest, capacitors in the controller simply don't fail.

Your LED control panel is giving an error code. You can ring Juicy to find out what it means. They should have the manual for it. The error indicated doesn't always relate directly to the cause, so tell us what it is if you want guidance on how to find the cause.

One of the error codes is the brake switch in the on state at startup. The bike will work without brake switches connected, so disconnect the brakes from the controller to eliminate that as a cause.

Another code means non-zero throttle signal at startup, so disconnected it it to eliminate it as a cause.

Likewise, to eliminate or confirm the motor or its wiring as the cause, disconnect the motor connectors together.

After that, you need a meter to test. As I said before, the tests are very easy. Anybody can do them. Let me know when you have a meter and please show a photo of which connectors you have at the controller end.

 

[pnn]

If your motor worked for a short while, there's probably nothing wrong with the controller, and to put your mind at rest, capacitors in the controller simply don't fail.

Your LED control panel is giving an error code. You can ring Juicy to find out what it means. They should have the manual for it. The error indicated doesn't always relate directly to the cause, so tell us what it is if you want guidance on how to find the cause.

One of the error codes is the brake switch in the on state at startup. The bike will work without brake switches connected, so disconnect the brakes from the controller to eliminate that as a cause.

Another code means non-zero throttle signal at startup, so disconnected it it to eliminate it as a cause.

Likewise, to eliminate or confirm the motor or its wiring as the cause, disconnect the motor connectors together.

After that, you need a meter to test. As I said before, the tests are very easy. Anybody can do them. Let me know when you have a meter and please show a photo of which connectors you have at the controller end.

Thanks saneagle - I don't have an LCD panel, just a small power on, power rate selector and light switch unit. Any other way to test or do you think that I just need to upgrade to an LCD panel as a first step? Probably should do this anyway.

 

[saneagle]

Thanks saneagle - I don't have an LCD panel, just a small power on, power rate selector and light switch unit. Any other way to test or do you think that I just need to upgrade to an LCD panel as a first step? Probably should do this anyway.

I didn't mention an LCD! You have an LED control panel.

 

[pnn]

I didn't mention an LCD! You have an LED control panel.

Sorry, missed that. So the 3 red lights on the power display is an error code. Thanks, will check with Juicy

 

[pnn]

The cable disconnection tests made no difference, and I'm awaiting a reply from Juicy on the possible error code..... Here's a photo of the controller connections (the thick black cable is a 10-pin connector to the handlebar harness).

 

[saneagle]

The cable disconnection tests made no difference, and I'm awaiting a reply from Juicy on the possible error code..... Here's a photo of the controller connections (the thick black cable is a 10-pin connector to the handlebar harness).

Just to be clear, did you disconnect the throttle and both brake cables at the handlebar connectors?

If you did, I'm going to guess that the code means comms error, where the control panel can't communicate with the controller, which can have many causes.

What happened at the time the failure started? There's always a reason. Electronics doesn't fail for nothing on its own in the garage while you're asleep.

You haven't mentioned the battery. Is it in good health? If so, how do you know?

 

[pnn]

Thanks for the ongoing help! Yes, handlebar throttle and brake cables were disconnected. Battery is in good health (recharged and the charge level indicator is showing "full"). The fault occurred when I was about to take the bike out for a ride, switched on and noted no power to the motor and all power indicator lights on the LED illuminated .... maybe a power surge at switch on? No sign of physical damage or wear on the wiring harness or any components.

 

[saneagle]

Thanks for the ongoing help! Yes, handlebar throttle and brake cables were disconnected. Battery is in good health (recharged and the charge level indicator is showing "full"). The fault occurred when I was about to take the bike out for a ride, switched on and noted no power to the motor and all power indicator lights on the LED illuminated .... maybe a power surge at switch on? No sign of physical damage or wear on the wiring harness or any components.

Did you check the connector to the LCD? Sometimes they get corrosion in there. What are Juicy saying? Did you call them?

 

[pnn]

All connectors are in good condition. Still awaiting a response from Juicy. I'll update as soon as I hear from them.