Hi I have a carrera e-bike newer version and have fitted a kt controller with lcd3 and throttle abilities. The battery cuts out and needs resetting when use throttle as if it’s lvc or bms doing it, does anyone have any ideas? Seems to shut off when goes below 30v is it normal for throttling to drop 6v?
Carrera vengeance kt controller and lcd3
- Thread starter Jackr8516
- Start date
6v is possible but sounds excessive, it depends on the cells used.
Not forgetting using athrottle one wil be pulling max amps so maybe it is asimple fact that the cells can't handle the sudden 100% current demand via throttle.
Not forgetting using athrottle one wil be pulling max amps so maybe it is asimple fact that the cells can't handle the sudden 100% current demand via throttle.
thanks for reply, battery I’m using is the standard one from carrera vengeance I believe it’s 36v11ah unsure on cells used.
If I plug the bike into charger it reads 40v consistently and I can throttle max with no cut off, does this point to the battery being too small for controller?
Battery need to read 41.5v - 42v, 40v is too low so there is an issue with cell balance during charging or the charger outputting an incorrect voltage.
What voltage readout does the charge give.
What voltage readout does the charge give.
On a full charge it reads 36.2v, battery is only about 2 months old but did come from Halfords..
it has black and red wire coming out then a 2 pin connector blue and Green thin wires, this isn’t attached to anything as I can’t find any information on what it does, any ideas?
The original carrera controller is a sealed unit it had the correct cables for it, I’m using a kt 36/48 so weave controller with lcd3 now
You're still not making it clear. Are you saying that before the conversions, those two wires were connected to the controller, and now thy're just floating in space?
Yes there is no space for them on the new controller and I can’t find any info on what their purpose is
They're communication cables and may be something to do with your problem; however, we can see what's going on without worrying about them just yet.
First thing is the charging. The results of the charging are shown on the LCD. Press the power button twice to show the voltage at the bottom of the LCD. After fully charging the battery, what voltage is shown?
Next thing is discharging. When you use the throttle, how many watts does it show at the top left of the LCD before the bike cuts out?
Those two pieces of information should give us a clue to what's going on.
I can’t see watts on the screen top left is battery icon. Is a W on the right of screen assuming this is watts? It just stays at 0 however, when full charged the bolts read 36.1 and I can keep the bike on at about quarter throttle watching the voltage it cuts out when hits 30v
The watts is how much power you're using. It should stay at zero until you operate the throttle, then it should go up in accordance with how much power comes out of the battery. You must watch it when you open the throttle.
Hi, I’ve tried a few times now and when battery ain’t connected to charger no matter how slow I put the throttle on still reads 0 when dies. When it’s plugged in at full throttle reaches about 150 unsure on if this helps sorry?
The only things I need to know are the volts after charging and the watts from the throttle, so we have 36. 1v and 150w, right? The watts is important, so be clear about it.
You charge the battery off the bike, so it can't be anything to do with the charger. That must mean that some battery function must be switched off by not having something from the controller because of the lack of comms.
We had a few examples of guys with these bikes where the battery voltage would stay low even after replacing batteries and chargers. Maybe this confirms that the controller might have some influence on it. On the other hand, other guys have done this conversion without problems, though there are different battery versions because some have two extra wires, like yours, and some have three.
I don't know what to suggest now. Your 150w rules out a false motor connection sequence. If it were my bike, I'd be stripping down the battery to figure out why you only have 36v instead of 42. It's like your battery is half switched off. The charger and battery don't know anything about the changes you made, so it must still be charging to 42v. That's what I'd want to check first. Unfortunately, without the comms enabled, you can't measure anything from outside the battery.
Where do you live?
You charge the battery off the bike, so it can't be anything to do with the charger. That must mean that some battery function must be switched off by not having something from the controller because of the lack of comms.
We had a few examples of guys with these bikes where the battery voltage would stay low even after replacing batteries and chargers. Maybe this confirms that the controller might have some influence on it. On the other hand, other guys have done this conversion without problems, though there are different battery versions because some have two extra wires, like yours, and some have three.
I don't know what to suggest now. Your 150w rules out a false motor connection sequence. If it were my bike, I'd be stripping down the battery to figure out why you only have 36v instead of 42. It's like your battery is half switched off. The charger and battery don't know anything about the changes you made, so it must still be charging to 42v. That's what I'd want to check first. Unfortunately, without the comms enabled, you can't measure anything from outside the battery.
Where do you live?
Hi yes volts n watts correct, the battery can be charged on and off the bike however I usually charge it off the bike, what would I be looking for if I split the battery? Just obvious damage or?
I live in Somerset near burnham on sea. Thanks for help
The idea of opening it is only to check the cell-pack voltage. At the moment, you can only measure what comes out of the connector, which is controlled by the BMS. If your battery is indeed only charging to 36v, that would mean that your controller is probably working correctly and the fault is in the battery or its charging; however I would bet on the cell-pack voltage being close to 42v.