Clicks and Judders

[watkin5]

I've been enjoying riding my Wisper 905 Eco to work for over a month. Overall I very pleased with it, especially now it's got Ogg mudguards.

I've got 2 niggles that I appreciate some advice on.

1) The front brake judders, which makes me nervous, especially in the wet. I checked all the screws are tight and that the brake blocks are positioned correctly.

2) I hear a clicking noise when I peddle hard. I guess it's coming from the cranks or bottom bracket. Is this normal on a Wisper 905?

I've not yet gone 200 miles so I object to paying £35 for a service, especially on a bike that cost £1000.

 

[Straylight]

Hi there, I know this part of the forum is to get answers from Wisper themselves, but thought I'd throw my two peneth in anyway

I changed the brake blocks for Avid cartridge type ones as this is what I use on my non-elec Marin, and have found them to be much smoother and more effective than the Wisper originals. They also seem to require a lot less force on the levers to slow the bike down, I guess this might be why your brakes are juddering with a combination of non-sticky rubber and so a lot of braking force to try and make them work, i.e. the brakes still aren't gripping properly, and so are letting the rim through with varying friction.

As for your clicking from the pedals, make sure it's not the chain rattling in the chainguard (if you have one). As this was badly positioned on mine - but it's fairly simple to adjust. If, however, you're convinced it's the bottom bracket, then get it fixed as a warranty repair, and don't pay a service charge, as with a bike so young it's unlikely to be wear and tear. Believe me, I've experienced one of those old type ball racers & spindle brackets falling apart on me, and it's not the most comforting feeling, to say the least. Better to get it seen to before you get into real trouble. To be honest, I don't quite understand why the Wisper doesn't use a sealed cartridge BB - the one on my Marin is still going strong after 10 years, with no maintenance whatsoever.

 

[watkin5]

Hi there, I know this part of the forum is to get answers from Wisper themselves, but thought I'd throw my two peneth in anyway

I'm new to cycling and appreciate all the advice I can get. Thank you.

I changed the brake blocks for Avid cartridge type ones as this is what I use on my non-elec Marin, and have found them to be much smoother and more effective...

Are these Avid Rim Wrangler II the ones?

As for your clicking from the pedals, make sure it's not the chain rattling in the chainguard (if you have one). As this was badly positioned on mine - but it's fairly simple to adjust. If, however, you're convinced it's the bottom bracket, then get it fixed as a warranty repair, and don't pay a service charge, as with a bike so young it's unlikely to be wear and tear.

When I spoke to the shop they said it sounds like a service issue, and I really don't want to waste a morning driving into Oxford to argue about it. They may well be right, I won't really know for sure unless I "get into real trouble". I only hear the clicks when I peddle hard, (3rd gear, ~8% uphill, ~12 mph), and the clicks get more pronounced as I peddle harder. There's no chainguard on my 905 Eco. Pity.

 

[torrent99]

To be honest, I don't quite understand why the Wisper doesn't use a sealed cartridge BB - the one on my Marin is still going strong after 10 years, with no maintenance whatsoever.

Well get your tape measure out and you'll see....it's HUGE! Non-standard doesn't come close Take care of that BB coz its Wisper specific.

(it needs to be this big to accomodate the very wide axle of the motor)

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Brakes and bearings

Hi Watkin5

Sorry to hear that you are having problems.

Of course you should not have to pay anything to have these niggles sorted out. Who was your supplier?

If you need some instant technical support email Norman our service manager at service@wisperbikes.com.

Please do not worry we will sort it out for you at no cost.

All the best David

 

[Straylight]

Well get your tape measure out and you'll see....it's HUGE! Non-standard doesn't come close Take care of that BB coz its Wisper specific.

(it needs to be this big to accomodate the very wide axle of the motor)

Good point

Watkin,
Yes, my blocks are rimwrangler 2s, I've found the work best when set at a slight angle to the rim, in that the rear of the block is slightly nearer the inside edge. This seems to cause the rear of the block to come into contact first, and allows for more 'progressive' braking. I'll probably mean they'll wear out quicker though , I guess it's a good job I live in the sticks & don't have to brake very often.

BTW, are you using SPD pedals or the ones that came with the bike? I only ask because I've got an old set of SPDs that sound eerily familiar to what you're describing. Also, is there any wobble in the bracket at all? What I mean is, is there any movement in it other than the way it's supposed to move? If so, then it definately requires attention.

 

[watkin5]

Of course you should not have to pay anything to have these niggles sorted out. Who was your supplier?

Thanks David,
I got the bike through a Cycle2Work scheme. Douglas Lawson put me in touch with Eddie at TETS, as Halfords were having trouble.
I had 3 abysmal Carrera Sparcs from Halfords before I traded up to a Wisper. The main reason I insisted on Wisper was the support I'd seen here.

BTW, are you using SPD pedals or the ones that came with the bike? I only ask because I've got an old set of SPDs that sound eerily familiar to what you're describing.

I'm using the pedals that came with the bike. SPD pedals would be cheating.

Also, is there any wobble in the bracket at all? What I mean is, is there any movement in it other than the way it's supposed to move? If so, then it definately requires attention.

There is a slight but definite wobble. I guess I better be off and email Norman. Thanks Straylight, I appreciate the advice.

 

[Mussels]

Well get your tape measure out and you'll see....it's HUGE! Non-standard doesn't come close Take care of that BB coz its Wisper specific.

(it needs to be this big to accomodate the very wide axle of the motor)

Coincidentally Trek have started offering an extra wide bottom bracket on their premium bikes as it makes a lower Q factor possible, I don't really understand it but the 905 BB is the same size so it can't all be bad. The cup and cone style BB spindle the Wisper has is a consumable part, if Wisper ever stop producing them then it might be a considerable problem.

There is a slight but definite wobble. I guess I better be off and email Norman. Thanks Straylight, I appreciate the advice.

It is not a hard thing to check and service yourself, I bought a lockring spanner and used an adjustable spanner for the cup adjustment. If you are fairly good with mechanical things it may be much simpler to remove the parts yourself and send Norman pictures to see what has gone wrong. It may be a service issue but it shouldn't need servicing afer 1 month, mine went 5000 miles before it needed adjusting.

It may still not be a BB issue, try dropping the chain off and spinning the cranks to see if you notice grinding or play in the bearings. Then try and wobble it by hand and take note if it's the whole assembly or just one crank that is wobbling.

 

[watkin5]

It may still not be a BB issue, try dropping the chain off and spinning the cranks to see if you notice grinding or play in the bearings. Then try and wobble it by hand and take note if it's the whole assembly or just one crank that is wobbling.

There's no grinding coming from the bearings, the cranks rotate nice and smoothly. The wobble is more pronounced on the chain side, it feels like the pivot point for the wobble it on the left side of the bottom bracket.

I'd prefer to fix it myself, as long as I had a good guide, and wasn't going to invalidate my guarantee.

 

[Mussels]

There's no grinding coming from the bearings, the cranks rotate nice and smoothly. The wobble more pronounced on the chain side, it feels like the pivot point for the wobble it on the left side of the bracket bracket.

I'd prefer to fix it myself, as long as I had a good guide, and wasn't going to invalidate my guarantee.

That does sound like the way mine felt when it started wearing, speak to Norman and see what he recommends.
P.S. if you work in the city you can borrow my tools if you need to.

 

[watkin5]

That does sound like the way mine felt when it started wearing, speak to Norman and see what he recommends.
P.S. if you work in the city you can borrow my tools if you need to.

Thanks for the offer and advice Mussels.
I've a few relatives in the city, but I'm small town only now a days. I've just got an email from Norman, I'll post a reply when we get it fixed.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Waranty

Hi Watkin5

Re our warranty, we do have to be careful that people do not start to take the bike apart, particularly the electronics as they can often do more damage than good, hence the clause.

However we always take a view and in your case any work you did on this particular problem would certainly not void your warranty.

Best regards David

 

[watkin5]

My 905 Eco is back in good health, and I'm now the proud owner of a HCW-5 lockring spanner and a 36/40mm headstock spanner.

The judder from the front brake dissappeared after I tighened the headstock.
With Norman's advice, tighening the bottom bracket was straight forward.

Regards, Rob

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Judders and Clicks

Excellent news.

Enjoy!

Best regards David