Cyclamatic cutting out

[mpe]

Hello,
I have posted this question before and got the reply that it "has to be" the battery or battery conection.

Now with a new battery and 100% sure of a ggood connection the problem is still there.

It goes fine for a few minutes then all the lights go out and it stops.

Allowing it to "cool down" for a few minutes I can ride it again, but it cuts out sooner.

Does anyone have any ideas before the summer is over? Many thanks, Alan

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you check the bullet connectors for the battery in the controller compartment?
Did you measure your battery voltage after the bike cut out?

 

[mpe]

Yes, sorry, that was suggested by the other forum member, I did unplug the bullet connector, cleaned it, sprayed with switch cleaner and re-connected.

I did not check the battery with a meter, but pressed the test button and that showed all three lights, GREEN, GREEN & RED

 

[Deleted member 4366]

What do you mean by "bullet connector"? There's two. Did you unscrew the side-plate from the controller's compartment, pull out the controller, disconnect the bullets, crimp them down a bit and reconnect them?

 

[mpe]

Had the side off and the controller out, did not "crimp" just cleaned. I will give them a squeeze. Thanks for the advice. Bit of a pain getting it back in !!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The lights on the throttle take a battery feed from the controller. If the battery voltage to the controller gets interrupted for whatever reason, the battery indicator LEDs will go down or off. If they stay steady while your motor cuts out, the problem is between the controller and the motor, otherwise it's between the controller and the battery. Can you tell us which of the two it is?

 

[mpe]

All the lights on the throttle go off

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's a problem between the controller and battery then. Typical causes:
1. Loose bullet connectors at the controller;
2. Bad contact between the battery terminals and the receiver pins;
3. Bad solder joint on the Key switch;
4. Knackered battery;
5. Loose wire in the battery;
6. Short circuit between the battery wires.

If you tried a battery that works OK in another bike, but not in yours only 1, 2 and 6 apply, so the fault should be easy to find.

 

[mpe]

That's great. I re-check all those points. Looks like I did not check something as well as I should have done (following previous advice).
Battery works on another bike, and I have bought a spare battery.
No chance the controller is faulty then?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The controller can't make the battery lights go out, but the battety lights can switch the controller off. Something is interrupting the battery voltage to the controller.

The only exception would be some sort of short circuit in the controller that sends the current so high that the over-current detection in the BMS in the battery trips out. That's possible, but very unlikely. You should check yhe obvious things first.