Cyclamatic Power Plus Intermittent Motor Cutting Out

[Borwick]

This intermittent fault tends to happen in the wet. So, I imagine that the problem is one of damp connections. That it is intermittent makes me think there are no major component faults. The brake lever cut outs seem to be working properly.

The problem usually announces itself by the motor making a groaning sound and then cutting out. Switching off and jiggling the shrink-wrapped connector block near the motor and then switching back on generally cures it for a time.

Is the motor groaning sound a clue?

I am currently trying to separate the halves of the connector block. I have discovered the little locking lever but still separating seems to take a lot of effort. Copious WD40 and even pliers on each half do not work. I wonder if I am doing something wrong as the force seems too much for a plastic connector.

Many thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's several versions of the Cyclamatic motor connectors. We need to know what you have. Photos will help. I've never seen one near the motor with a locking lever. Have a look behind the chain-stay to see if there's a connector there. If there is, make sure that it's pushed together all the way to the line.

 

[Borwick]

There's several versions of the Cyclamatic motor connectors. We need to know what you have. Photos will help. I've never seen one near the motor with a locking lever. Have a look behind the chain-stay to see if there's a connector there. If there is, make sure that it's pushed together all the way to the line.

Hi,

Thank you for your reply. I have taken a photo but have bother uploading it. Perhaps if I gave a clearer description that would help?

The connector block I am concerned with is attached to the chainstay between the motor and the controller. It is attached by 4 lugs between which the cables are attached.

I think the block is fairly common as it is also fitted to 2 Cyclomatic folders, all about 5 years old.

The block is black and has a rectangular profile. It has rubber covers either end and is then covered in a shrink wrapped black plastic and cable ties.

The locking mechanism is a simple clip on the female end which runs through a small rectangular "tunnel" on the male end there is a small knub to which the clip attaches and so acts to prevent the connector separating.

No risk of that as it seems to be seized solid and I am afraid of breaking the connector block with too much force.

I was out on the bike this afternoon. The motor was off more than on and the groaning sound from the motor was more like a vibration - a mechanical sound as though internal cogs were not engaging properly.

Whatever the fault is, it seems to respond to the power being cut - but not by the on/off button on the handlebars.

If the motor is stopped then as likely as not it will not go again. Both break lever switches are operating correctly, both on and off.

Many thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's three thick wires and 5 thin ones to the motor. when the connection on any of the thin wires is compromised, you get that groaning from the motor. it feels like you gears or clutch are broken, but they're not. The connection can be compromised by damage to the motor cable or by a bad connection, You must not apply full power when the motor cuts or groans otherwise you'll pop mosfets in the controller and get the problem permanently.

 

[Borwick]

There's three thick wires and 5 thin ones to the motor. when the connection on any of the thin wires is compromised, you get that groaning from the motor. it feels like you gears or clutch are broken, but they're not. The connection can be compromised by damage to the motor cable or by a bad connection, You must not apply full power when the motor cuts or groans otherwise you'll pop mosfets in the controller and get the problem permanently.

Thank you for your advice. It has all gone dead now, save for 3 lights on the handlebars. I will need to have a real session on the stuck connector block and by the sound of it the controller as well. The connector block issue seems to be mentioned on other Cyclamatic posts and I may dispense with it and just use an ordinary household electrical block with screw down connectors and seal it all in a length of inner tube with cable ties.

Sadly, I think my Cyclamatic Power Plus is reaching the end of the road. It has been a lot of fun and indeed earlier in the year I rode it up the Duddon Valley in the Lake District. Some parts of the road are so steep that you have to concentrate not to do wheelies but the bike made it with just a bit of huffing and puffing. An older friend did it much more easily, however on his Trek Powerfly. Perhaps it was his lighter wallet which made the difference ...?

In the past, I have put on a better hill climbing rear sprocket and as the Cyclamatics have a poor front chain ring which distorts and throws the chain, I replaced it with a triple ring which also makes hill climbing much better. I change over when I need to with a roadside-found stick!

However, the bike is over 5 years old and well used and so I wonder how much longer the battery will go on. The lock switch has broken, and is bypassed, the down tube has a crack and the motor groans hopelessly as I have described!

You write with affection for Cyclamatics. I have the MTB and 2 folders, all returns bought from Sport HQ on eBay and they are so affordable that they do democratise eBiking.

I bought a scarcely used Carrera Crossfire 2, I think, (with mechanically operated disk brakes) and very much like it. So, I am thinking of adding a motor. I would like to keep the triple chain ring so I will probably go for a rear hub motor. I like the idea of a crank motor but I guess that it is then not possible to keep the front triple chain ring. I wonder if anyone has experience of using a triple chainring with a hub motor, perhaps without the front mech and changing manually?

Are there any obvious conversion kits for such a hybrid bike which needs to climb severely steep hilly roads?

For me, matching the motor power with my own is critical and it seems odd to me that eBikes do not generally seem to take advantage of the gearing made available by multiple chainrings. The current Halfords offering which seems to have cutting out problems too and retails at £1200 oddly only has a single chain ring unlike the un-motorised version of the same bike.

Many thanks for your advice.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If you're going to add a kit, a slowish-wound 36v motor at 48v will give you teally good climbing power. I use a 201 rpm 36v Q128 at 48v. If you don't want to go over 20 mph, the 201 rpm 48v version would be even better.

You get them from BMSbattery, where you can get a 48v 09 Dolphin battery that includes a 20A controller, LCD, throttle and PAS. Add a torque arm, and you can get the whole kit for about £600, which will blitz your mate's Powerfly in any hill-climbing test.

 

[topographer]

Cracked frame? Eek! I'd be too scared to get on it.

You write with affection for Cyclamatics. I have the MTB and 2 folders, all returns bought from Sport HQ on eBay and they are so affordable that they do democratise eBiking.

Yep, they address non-consumption.

 

[Borwick]

Cracked frame? Eek! I'd be too scared to get on it.


Yep, they address non-consumption.

I have 2 Cyclamatics that have cracked on the down tube where the diameter changes. There must be a lot of leverage at that point especially if the seat post is drawn up high. They are made secure again with bolts. It is a problem with the design caused by accommodating the battery in its own cage beneath the seat.

 

[Borwick]

If you're going to add a kit, a slowish-wound 36v motor at 48v will give you teally good climbing power. I use a 201 rpm 36v Q128 at 48v. If you don't want to go over 20 mph, the 201 rpm 48v version would be even better.

You get them from BMSbattery, where you can get a 48v 09 Dolphin battery that includes a 20A controller, LCD, throttle and PAS. Add a torque arm, and you can get the whole kit for about £600, which will blitz your mate's Powerfly in any hill-climbing test.

If you're going to add a kit, a slowish-wound 36v motor at 48v will give you teally good climbing power. I use a 201 rpm 36v Q128 at 48v. If you don't want to go over 20 mph, the 201 rpm 48v version would be even better.

You get them from BMSbattery, where you can get a 48v 09 Dolphin battery that includes a 20A controller, LCD, throttle and PAS. Add a torque arm, and you can get the whole kit for about £600, which will blitz your mate's Powerfly in any hill-climbing test.

Thank you for your helpful reply. The 48v set up sounds the most interesting. Would the resulting bike be UK road legal? I don't fancy the prospect of being done for riding a moped without MOT, tax or insurance and probably a host of construction and use regulations as well as not wearing the right motorbike helmet! That would be enough points to see anyone off the road!

I found the BMSbattery website but I had difficulty identifying the kit I needed. Perhaps I am being dim but could I trouble you please to help me identify the components you are discussing there so I can order them.

The motor would need to fit the Carrera Crossfire. The distance between the rear stays is 140mm and the wheel takes a 700x42C (44 622) tyre.

From your other posts you clearly enjoy this set up operating at 48v.

I have read that crank motors are well suited to hill climbing - do you see any great difference to the performance of a hub motor. I especially like the idea of keeping the front mech on my current Carrera and also fitting a granny gear cassette at the back which I imagine will give a far better result for me than even a great crank motor but with higher gears.

Many thanks.

 

[Borwick]

There's three thick wires and 5 thin ones to the motor. when the connection on any of the thin wires is compromised, you get that groaning from the motor. it feels like you gears or clutch are broken, but they're not. The connection can be compromised by damage to the motor cable or by a bad connection, You must not apply full power when the motor cuts or groans otherwise you'll pop mosfets in the controller and get the problem permanently.

The Cyclamatic has been in the back of the garage since I bought a Crossfire. I have just dusted it off and given it a charge and everything is quite dry. The encouraging discovery is that it works! However, only intermittently. The groaning sound has gone but the motor only comes on erratically when the bike is jolted.

It sounds to me like a bad connection somewhere and I was thinking of simply replacing the dubious block connector with an ordinary household connector block and shrink wrapping it to keep out damp.

Do you think this is a sensible course or would you expect a faulty connection to be elsewhere? The handlebar 3 lights stay on throughout.

Many thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Look at the motor connector behind the chain-stay. Most likely, it isn't fully in.

 

[Borwick]

Thanks, yes, that is where I thought the problem would be. It is fully connected in fact I have had to break the locking clip off to try and get into it. I have not managed to separate the parts yet, even with 2 sets of pliers - which may indicate that something has gone wrong ...

Have you experienced any problems with these connector blocks? I have had bother with them on 2 bikes now. That is why my crude solution was to simply replace it with an 8 pin connector block with screw connectors, say 3 amp household variety. However, do you see a neater solution?

I noted that in earlier posts you said that there were a number of these connector blocks. Is there a more modern, more reliable one available? My Cyclomatic mountain bike is about 7 years old and the connector block is rectangular in profile.

Where would supply a replacement?

Many thanks for your help.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Can you take a photo of what you have?

 

[Borwick]

Sure, here is the connector block partially disassembled but the halves sticking together. Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need to get that connect apart to check for corrosion, especially if it's stuck.

 

[mw1]

Sure, here is the connector block partially disassembled but the halves sticking together. Thanks.View attachment 24286 View attachment 24286

Hi
Personally I detest those OE connector blocks! The neatest & most reliable solution IMO is to cut all the wires, then solder them back together according to colour / thickness, with some appropriate shrink tube for each wire, and a larger diameter over the whole lot once satisfied that all the wiring is present & correct.
Old Cyclamatics never die, they just get modded... They have a good, reliable motor ( maybe not the gruntiest, I grant you ), & age shouldn't be an issue if you keep on top of the basics.

Mark

 

[Giuseppe]

Hi first time ost I have had my cyclomatic folder over 12 months, but been have the power cutting off everything switch off the lights on the handlebars went out all I did was turn the key on and off then on again all was well but did it again after a mile. I called THE SORTSHQ asked for their advice when I said that my model had a throttle was told it was a early (A) I thought I had a CX1, without any hesitation told the battery on the way out 24v 10ah I ordered 24v 12ah 8cm x 9cm x 37cm, I have ordered one off ebay cost nearly as much as the bike what do members think could it be a simple but expensive and can you confirm the model it looks exactly the same as the CX1/2.

 

[Nealh]

I got lost after SportsHQ.
You need to clarify what you are saying/asking !!!

Does it mean, I bought a new battery and it still doesn't work.

 

[anon4]

Hi first time ost I have had my cyclomatic folder over 12 months, but been have the power cutting off everything switch off the lights on the handlebars went out all I did was turn the key on and off then on again all was well but did it again after a mile. I called THE SORTSHQ asked for their advice when I said that my model had a throttle was told it was a early (A) I thought I had a CX1, without any hesitation told the battery on the way out 24v 10ah I ordered 24v 12ah 8cm x 9cm x 37cm, I have ordered one off ebay cost nearly as much as the bike what do members think could it be a simple but expensive and can you confirm the model it looks exactly the same as the CX1/2.

The cx1 is a 36v bike so a 24v battery won't work, as far as I know the only 24v model was the original power plus. In my experience power cuts can also be the fuse in the battery so check that out and all main controller connections, good luck!