Diagnosing a fault - motor or controller?
- Thread starter pteron
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The wire is part of the motor, so the only spare part you can get from Oxygen is the complete motor and wheel, which will be expensive.
You can get the cable from BMSBattery, but you'll have to open the motor to attach it, which might not be easy depending which one you've got.
Assuming that one of the wires is broken inside the insulation where it enters the axle, you have a few options:
1. Buy a bare motor and lace it into the wheel - about £100
2. Try a sensorless controller like the S06PW from BMSBattery - about £50 including LCD and speed sensor. It's more likely a hall wire broken because they're thinner. Phase wires are quite strong.
3. Open the motor to see if it can easily be fixed. You need a free-wheel removal tool, and then you need to make something to turn the side-plate. I got one open by inserting an inverted cap screw into one of the dimples, and then tapped it round with a hammer and screwdriver. Once you get the motor open, you can test to see which wire has the fault. The cables that Shemozzle has are suitable, but it's quite fiddly to solder them on to the motor windings.
4. Replace the whole motor and wheel with a different one. The fitting of all wheels is standard, so you can choose any 250w one you want.
You can get the cable from BMSBattery, but you'll have to open the motor to attach it, which might not be easy depending which one you've got.
Assuming that one of the wires is broken inside the insulation where it enters the axle, you have a few options:
1. Buy a bare motor and lace it into the wheel - about £100
2. Try a sensorless controller like the S06PW from BMSBattery - about £50 including LCD and speed sensor. It's more likely a hall wire broken because they're thinner. Phase wires are quite strong.
3. Open the motor to see if it can easily be fixed. You need a free-wheel removal tool, and then you need to make something to turn the side-plate. I got one open by inserting an inverted cap screw into one of the dimples, and then tapped it round with a hammer and screwdriver. Once you get the motor open, you can test to see which wire has the fault. The cables that Shemozzle has are suitable, but it's quite fiddly to solder them on to the motor windings.
4. Replace the whole motor and wheel with a different one. The fitting of all wheels is standard, so you can choose any 250w one you want.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
This will give you some idea of what's involved with replacing the wires. The nitty gritty starts on page 3. Alex had no previous experience of motors, soldering etc, but he managed to repair his - mind you, he nearly gave up a couple of times. Kudos to him for persevering and giving such a good write-up. AFAIK, it's still running, perhaps he'll confirm where it is now:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/broke-my-motor-lead-new-motor-and-wheel-build-or-is-it-replaceable.14000/page-3
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/broke-my-motor-lead-new-motor-and-wheel-build-or-is-it-replaceable.14000/page-3