Hi All I'm Simon, new to this site and in need of a bit of assistance, I have recently built up a 29er with new Xionda rear hub, 250 controller and KT-LCD3 ldc comp, everything has been fine and running smooth UNTIL when taking the battery off to charge the battery connector hit the frame and there was a flash and a small bang (and a black cat hanging from the ceiling) A few days later On the way to work the hub started "growling" and I lost power the comp flashed info 03 which appears to be a hall sensor problem, I check all connections breaking down most multi plugs to do so the bike then ran okay for a short while about 20 miles or so but now the problem is so bad I have had to stop riding it (knackered knees), when I disconnect all 3 thick wire to the hub then re-connect them for a short period of time the hub runs smoothly both on thumb throttle then pedel then the growling starts again since the hub does run smoothly at times is it more likely a controller issue? I am not electrically minded and don't have test equipment hence this post Regards Simon.
Duff Controller Or Halls
- Thread starter Horse15
- Start date
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Deleted member 4366
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The flash and bang is no problem. It's only the capacitor discharging. I can't believe that your present problem is related.
It's not good to give your motor full power if it stops. It's OK to run rough, but do not give it full throttle or PAS if it stops or you'll blow the controller.
You need to chech the motor wire where it comes out of the axle. Wiggle it to see if you can make the problem come and go. Next, check the connector near the motor. My bet is that you don't have it pushed in all the way to the guideline.
It's not good to give your motor full power if it stops. It's OK to run rough, but do not give it full throttle or PAS if it stops or you'll blow the controller.
You need to chech the motor wire where it comes out of the axle. Wiggle it to see if you can make the problem come and go. Next, check the connector near the motor. My bet is that you don't have it pushed in all the way to the guideline.
Hi d8veh,
have checked and reconnected all connections, have just tried wiggling the wire with the throttle just on But unfortunetly no difference, the hub runs smoothly for about 45 seconds then the rough running starts sounds like a slow hammer drill
Thanks d8veh, Just re- taken the wheel off and given the wires a look under a magnifying glass Just as the cable leaves the axle there is a tiny split in the outer cable Now how to fix ......
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Deleted member 4366
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Not easy to fix if the wire is broken. I will be posting something in the next couple of days because I have to do one.
I have a red and yellow wire that have been worn and I thought shorting against the axle as the wires were just showing a bit of metal and not touching each other ,for a temp fix I put a blob of silicone on them left it for a while, when I connected everything up I still have the problem.. Could I have already damaged a hall sensor ?
When I use the throttle or pedals it now starts normally then a knocking noise starts which turns into the original growling ...
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Deleted member 4366
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The sensors wouldn't be damaged by shorting like that. They wouldn't work then not work. Either the wire is cut or still shorting, or it's something else.
That's good to know
I will have to wait till the weekend and try and get into the hub, It has 4 notches on the gear side It looks like the wire will have to be removed to sort it out, I have no choice today have to use the bike without power...And its Raining.....
Have had to use the bike all week. I have hydraulic brakes but still use the old sprung loaded brake sensor levers as a sort of clutch lever... I have huge hands so I can easily use both levers at the same time with the "clutch" lever cutting power before brakes applied.. looks odd but works perfectly... I have had the power switched on throughout my 4 mile ride as I'm riding along with the bike growling I can pull on a "clutch" lever and cut the power whilst being able to continue my ride at a reasonable speed, doing this a few times the motor has been running as normal for a mile or so before going into growl mode I pull on the clutch again hold in for a short while release and more often than not I can get a few hundred yards of normal power, It seems strange that this is happening .. do you have any other ideas before I attempt to look inside the hub
This maybe to do with a split cable somewhere as mentioned. Fine when starting but as soon as the power/heat start to flow, it may make connection with something else and cause a short.
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Deleted member 4366
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Some people have had wires touching inside the motor that only happened when warm. It could also be a faulty MOSFET in the controller. It might be worth checking their solder joints.
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Deleted member 4366
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I recently took mine apart to repair the wires. The hall sensor legs looked very vulnerable. I posted details of how to do the repair here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67001
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67001
Hi excellent post.. one slight problem, I don't have any screws on my hub and seem to be destroying the tabs trying to drift it open its a xionda ytw-03
The four tabs suggests that a specific tool is required to open/turn the casing or something home-made.
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Deleted member 4366
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Is that a Xiongda motor? If so, which one?
Two things might help. Look around near the join to see if there's a very small grub screw holding it. Use a heatgun to warm up the hub to about 60 deg (hot to touch). Maybe drop two or three ice blocks on the side to shrink it a bit too.
Two things might help. Look around near the join to see if there's a very small grub screw holding it. Use a heatgun to warm up the hub to about 60 deg (hot to touch). Maybe drop two or three ice blocks on the side to shrink it a bit too.
Heated it up hammered off the cover, is also the internal outer drive that the three plastic drive wheels attach to hence being as tight as......It was.. dost the wire side now just tap out
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