ku123 without display?

shinyuri1275

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 31, 2017
5
0
42
brighton
Hi everyone,

First post on these forums but long time lurker!

Anyways, I was wondering if any of you could help me out. I have a KU123 controller and was wondering if I could make it so only the throttle was connected to the controller and make the thing work. I have no display and don't really like them as it takes up space on the handlebars. I don't need a switch to turn it on/off as I would just disconnect the battery pack as soon as I finish the ride - my commute is fairly long so I like to charge every time I get off the bike.

Sorry I don't have a pic of it right now but I do know its not one of the older ones which didn't need a display.

Any help would be much appreciated!
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
You have to join the red to the blue and join the two data wires, whatever colour they are - not red, blue or black. that only leaves two wires. You won't be able to access any settings, so you might still get all sorts of problems.
 

shinyuri1275

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 31, 2017
5
0
42
brighton
Thanks for the reply.

So looking at the controller, I have the 3 speed switch and the electric switch connections. The 3 speed has blue white and black. The electric switch has pink and red. Are these the connections you are referring to? The other connections don't seem to be related to the display function.

So from what you said I should connect the red with the blue and the white to the pink?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Sorry, I got mixed up with the S12S because you mentioned the display. The KU123 doesn't have a display. All you need for it to work is the battery, motor and throttle. Note that the ignition wire needs to be connected to a battery positive to power the controller. That means join the pink to the red. The three-speed switch only works with the hall sensors connected, not in sensorless mode. With nothing connected to it, you get normal mode. Join black to one of the other two to get a 10% speed boost. Join it to the other of the other two to get restricted mode. It gets the speed boost by altering the timing, so don't leave it like that for normal riding or hill-climbing.
 

shinyuri1275

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 31, 2017
5
0
42
brighton
Thanks, will try it out. It's being connected to a non hall sensor motor so I guess the 3 speed won't do anything then.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
IIRC, the restricted mode still works, but not the boost.
 

shinyuri1275

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 31, 2017
5
0
42
brighton
Alright, connected it all up and blipped the throttle, the wheel span about 5 degrees and didn't do anything else! When I touched the throttle again I could hear a click from inside the hub motor. I already have the controller and all gubbins associated with the motor (bought the ku123 after for more power) and so connected that all up to see if it all worked ok and it was fine.

Maybe the ku123 was running on sensored mode and couldn't change to sensor less?

Was it something to do with the throttle not being compatible?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
You have to leave the hall sensor connector disconnected to run sensorless. It doesn't automatically switch over if there's a problem with one. Instead, it spends all its time trying to fifure out the sequence.
 

shinyuri1275

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 31, 2017
5
0
42
brighton
Was a bit tied up at work but finally got back to the controller.

So I connected the pink and red wires, the throttle, the 3 phase wires to the motor and of course the battery. No halls connected up. Same issue though, it will spin for a couple of degrees and stop when I blip the throttle. It seems like if everything is connected properly, the controller isn't going into sensorless mode.

I have also tried switching the 3 wires to the motor and it will then turn a little more and stop.

Is there any way to turn off sensored mode manually?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Check that all your motor phases are OK. Set your meter to volts A/C. With the motor disconnected, stick your probes up any pair and spin the wheel backwards. You should see some voltage generated. Repeat for each pair, so three tests. Test at the controller connection so that you're testing through the entire motor cable.
 

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