tools supplied?
- Thread starter Simo
- Start date
If you are having hub gears, you will need a proper 15mm combination spanner to remove the back wheel to fix a puncture.
An old-style bike spanner with several open ends will not give the leverage required for the job - the hub axle nuts need to be relatively tight.
A few months ago, I came across a stranded push cyclist with the same problem.
You could buy a basic set of spanners, but if you are only going to use the 15mm one, it's available separately from the likes of Halfords for about £6.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/tools-tool-kits/halfords-professional-combination-spanner-15mm
The same spanner will likely do the pedals, but a 'proper' pedal spanner is thinner because there isn't a lot of space between the pedal nut and the crank.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/380932368918?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
An old-style bike spanner with several open ends will not give the leverage required for the job - the hub axle nuts need to be relatively tight.
A few months ago, I came across a stranded push cyclist with the same problem.
You could buy a basic set of spanners, but if you are only going to use the 15mm one, it's available separately from the likes of Halfords for about £6.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/tools-tool-kits/halfords-professional-combination-spanner-15mm
The same spanner will likely do the pedals, but a 'proper' pedal spanner is thinner because there isn't a lot of space between the pedal nut and the crank.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/380932368918?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
The Pro Connect 9 has derailleur gears, so quick release, so no worries there.
Bear in mind when fitting the pedals, the one under your left leg has a left hand thread - it does up anti-clockwise as you look from the side of the bike.
The threads are also relatively fine, so it's easy to start one cross threaded in the excitement of building your new bike.
A dab of grease on the thread is wise.
It makes the pedals easier to nip up tight, and you might want to change them one day.
Bear in mind when fitting the pedals, the one under your left leg has a left hand thread - it does up anti-clockwise as you look from the side of the bike.
The threads are also relatively fine, so it's easy to start one cross threaded in the excitement of building your new bike.
A dab of grease on the thread is wise.
It makes the pedals easier to nip up tight, and you might want to change them one day.
A cheap dedicated pedal spanner is probably your best bet, in case the combination is too thick.
You will note the pedal spanners are quite long - lots of leverage.
That's an indication that you do need to do up the pedals quite tight.
However, the left hand thread is a safety device.
Any fixing will tend to turn in the direction it is being rotated.
The left hand pedal spins anti-clockwise when you are using the bike.
Thus it will tend to tighten in use, rather than undo.
The right hand pedal spins clockwise when you are using the bike.
Thus it will tend to tighten in use, rather than undo.
Some vehicles have left hand threads on the nearside wheels for the same reason.
You will note the pedal spanners are quite long - lots of leverage.
That's an indication that you do need to do up the pedals quite tight.
However, the left hand thread is a safety device.
Any fixing will tend to turn in the direction it is being rotated.
The left hand pedal spins anti-clockwise when you are using the bike.
Thus it will tend to tighten in use, rather than undo.
The right hand pedal spins clockwise when you are using the bike.
Thus it will tend to tighten in use, rather than undo.
Some vehicles have left hand threads on the nearside wheels for the same reason.
