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Well, a carbon frame won't conduct, heavy steel isn't really used for e-bikes, and Aluminium isn't a great conductor - although aluminium is used for cheapness for very high voltage, very long run underground cabling for domestic/infrastructure power distribution etc. (but we're talking...

Unvented chargers do get hot - especially when running flat-out at just 2Ah for an extended period of time charging a bigger 13Ah battery. Changing the capacitors does (subjectively) keep the charger somewhat cooler: Sticking bigger rubber feet on it to keep it off a flat surface and allow air...

This is NOT the same error as experienced by some who get erratic cut-outs. E00 is a "controller communication error" where the remedy is to remove the battery for 5 minutes, (probably best to wipe clean the display and battery contacts), then power on again. If that doesn't work, replace the...

I only have two small 374w/10.4Ah batteries, so if I plan a longer 40-50 mile ride, I tend to park-up and start at the mid-point of a trail. It means I can do the ride in two halves comfortably, and the weight of a spare battery, food, dry clothes etc. can be left in the van for half-time...

It would take a virtual short to trigger an overcurrent event to shut-down the battery as quickly as it has often been reported: Phylion say 50A for 96ms.

When you press the battery button, the LEDs should indicate (certain) fault(s) instead of showing the SOC (battery state of charge) - if there is a battery fault. With this battery, an over-temperature event is shown by LED 5 lit solidly, and LED 1 flashing for 5 seconds (That seems to be shown...

Without side-tracking this thread too much: My pair of household helpers... the oldest dates back to 2005 (when German stuff was actually made in Germany), and still running on its original BMZ batteries. They have been excellent... My newer Bosch "professional" power-tool batteries on the...

Long speculation based on what evidence we appear to have thus far (I'll apologise now!)... Even though the battery BMS is “smart” (in a Bosch/Yamaha handshaking way) - Phylion say tracking usage, state of health, low/over-temp, over/under-voltage, bad cell, time recording etc, none of those...

That makes sense to me. The question for me is why does this Suntour controller request >19A constant, 23A/2seconds surge for a poxy 250w motor? No other e-bike using this same Phylion battery seems to have this problem.

It's in the battery dock (end cap), potted in resin. My thoughts too. NewtSoup's discussion with the Suntour guy suggests that the 3 battery comms pins aren't even connected/being used, so that means only the 36-volt rails are - which is how most e-bike makers appear to use Phylion packs, and...

I really hope so too. It would be nice to know where this Crossfire-e "cut-out" problem really does stem from, and that it CAN, at last, be fixed. Fingers crossed! On a positive note... if the Suntour system really isn't using those battery centre pins after all, it means you could source spare...

That does make some sense... but I'm not totally convinced. My e-bike uses the same Phylion battery... but with the "standard" BMS. From what I understand from Phylion, your Crossfire-e uses the "smart" BMS (perhaps that's what gives the usage cycles etc, whereas mine doesn't). Nevertheless...

My e-bike uses the same Phylion battery, but with a different (standard) BMS board and only the 36v power rails connected (the two outer pins). That board is very nicely/tidily made, and isn't too hard to take out/examine Your battery differs in that the three centre pins of the battery ARE also...

When others have reported this problem with this e-bike, the sudden power loss is most often attributed to either the battery jiggling around and losing connection, or the riders foot possibly catching the motor feed wire and/or vibration disturbing it - hence why tying both down seems a popular...

Logic suggests the issue is between your battery and the charger: It may even be that there's nothing wrong with either other than the LED battery display being a little off... but without measuring/checking actual voltages with a multimeter, you'll never know. Replacing the controller may be...

I use either of these two Bestek inverters. Both work. Both cost about £40 on Amazon. A 2-amp 42-volt e-bike charger consumes roughly 80-watts of mains power. The first is rated at a constant 400w (about 1000w peak) when connected direct to a vehicle battery, or 150w when connected via an...

And I'd argue that's what leads to disappointment... it sets a very high level of expectation that today just isn't being delivered. The recurring theme with all these "German product" issues on this forum at least, and to quote a recent post, is (I paid through the nose because) "I presumed I...

And still people buy Kalkhoff e-bikes, despite all the known issues, believing the "German-made" superiority hype.

Nobody in England has a clue how the French think - or could replicate how the French drive... but the J D Survey is taken (at least here in the UK) as a factual measured survey of British buyers of these cars... and the Dacia still proves more dependable than a BMW! (my own hideously unreliable...

Absolutely agreed. So if we look at cars then... In the J D Power Survey 2017 of the UK's 25 most dependable cars... Kia (1st), Skoda (3rd) Hyundai (5th) all proved more dependable than Mercedes (15th), Audi (24th), and the most appalling reliability of all cars sold in Britain was German made...