Search results

Can you link to the type of Sim I would need that costs £20 a year please?

Just wondering if somebody has bought an eg £10 tracker off Amazon and put a £1 Lebara Sim in it or similar. So far since 2009 I've been lucky not to have a bike stolen because of where I leave it and the lock I have on it BUT it would be nice to have a cheap tracker installed. At one point you...

I agree with that one

Which I personally think is stupid and is creating cycling road rage warriors. Arm length I've never had a problem with.

This is where we differ, I wouldn't have a problem with that. The car was nowhere near within the lines and you were within your lines. If I had a cam I'd have about 10 like that every day, the ones that worry me are when they hit my mirror. I had a cam about 7 years ago, every evening I'd take...

Earlier this year because the road is so dangerous I mount onto the pavement and use the crossings. I was on Green and a motorist drove straight up to me on Red and started to slowly push on me, he then got out of the car screaming I shouldn't be pushing my bike across the crossings. A bloke got...

It's a Julet 9 pin connector so I need to buy an extension cable which I can cut in half, strip back and solder all the ends nicely for testing. I'm also willing to buy the tester in this video that somebody linked to in my other two threads - (or perhaps I don't really need one if I have...

Now I've got two working bikes I can give it a go. Mine are just K2/Julet connectors so need the other method. I have a spare controller so do you have instructions for the Y lead and testing please?

New front wheel motor came this morning and all working. Still upset that all I did was unplug and reconnect the old one and it failed!!

I have 2 identical batteries and two bikes with identical parts (apart from front wheel size) and I'm using the other bike alternating the batteries. My only explanation is when I uncoupled and then coupled one of the wires has moved in the motor side. When the new wheel comes I'll have the...

Update 1) Tried pushing cables together harder on both bikes, no chance. 2) This morning I built up the old 26" motor that went faulty about 4 years ago but is now working. Took it out for a run but it failed under load after 20 yards confirming that it is faulty even though it pretended to...

I have skillz but you've mentioned this before in my bi-yearly posts and it's a bit over my head. I can get into settings, used to do it to make the motor go faster (10 years ago). That's another thing, when the motor cable has come loose before (18 months ago) I got an error message on my...

Definitely not, I even took macro photos to make sure and two motors work on my MTB which the faulty one was off. I then plugged the faulty motor into my near identical second bike and it didn't work in that. I will try the faulty motor plug again but if I push any harder it's going to damage...

1) Absolutely, I even marked the old identical motor which works now. I have had that problem in the past. It also didn't work on my other bike - just the little thud like it wanted to start. 2) It's a K2 system like what Cyclotricity and Yose Power use (this is some parts for another build)...

My Suntour SP12 is excellent

This must be my third thread on front motors :) So took my front wheel off my 26" to get it into the car to drop off at a garage. Put the wheel back on and just a thud from the motor. Eventually got home with no motor which wasn't easy because I'm registered disabled and my bikes act like...

Where I live the Police have confiscated and crushed them.

My new parts have come, to be honest since I've got two eBikes I don't mind all the extra parts -

I did take the nut off the other side but didn't hit it with a mallet - I'll try later.

I've got it all unscrewed but I'll be buggered if I can get it completely off. The cover turns on this point but it won't pull off over it. Any idea what might be holding it?