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Here is an example of a battery voltage chart. A 36 volt battery will be at 42 volts when it is fully charged, so it’s nothing to worry about. Post a photo of your controller showing the plugs and sockets that you have connected and someone may be able to advise you of what testing you need to...

The 5 volt regulator is inside the controller. It is unlikely you have damaged the motor by connecting the pas and throttle wires together. If you have a multimeter you can check the voltages on the pas and throttle connectors as Nealth suggested. You do have to be careful about cross...

Vinegar baths may take a day or two to work properly. Half an hour soaking isn’t long enough for the acetic acid to eat the rust. You could try something like this if you are impatient and want to speed up the process...

PAS inputs 5 volt pulses into the controller created by a set of magnets rotating around a magnetic sensor when you pedal. The faster you pedal the higher the frequency of the pulses. Throttle inputs 0 to 3.6 volts dc, created by twisting the throttle. The more you twist the higher the dc...

Looks a bit like a Z215 2 pin battery connector.

“Never leave your battery to charge unattended or whilst you sleep”. That’s easier said than done.

And I could have been mistaken about the thin wires being for the hall sensors. They could be wiring for the display. The more I see of these manufactured e-bikes, the more I’m convinced that a kit is the better option. They are much easier and cheaper to maintain when things go wrong if you...

I think I understand what we are looking at now. That connector must go to the battery not the motor and the thick Yellow and Green wires are battery supply and the thick Blue wire is unused. Sorry for misleading you.

I’m out of ideas now that you have shown the pins on the connector. There are indeed only pins for the yellow and green phases and I have no idea where the blue phase wire is supposed to go. It needs someone who has worked on this model to take it from here.

Can you take another photo of the connector block from the pin side? And also the mating connector on the bike showing the wiring if you can get to it. There must be another big blue wire somewhere. I can’t see too clearly, but on you last photo it looks like the blue wire has come away from a...

Is you bike faster than before? Worth checking your settings again using this video for reference:

They are probably monitoring this site as well as all of the others even though they don’t post.

They seem to be responding on Twitter, so maybe send them a tweet.

So the photograph shows: Thin red = +5v for hall sensors Thin black = GND for hall sensors Thin yellow = hall sensor for yellow phase Thin blue = hall sensor for blue phase Thin green = hall sensor for green phase Thin white = speed or temperature sensor, probably not needed Thick yellow =...

In that case the blue wire either became disconnected when you removed the controller or it fell off due to a dry joint. That could have been your original problem. The Blue wire needs to be resoldered and then connect it all back up to see if the motor runs.

In this photograph the thick blue phase wire is not connected, so the motor won’t run. The thin white wire is for the speed or temperature sensor which may not be needed.

Ooh, I think you will have trouble finding a replacement on eBay. It could be a DU B250 in a different case made specifically for OEMs like Decathlon. If it works OK in walking mode you could have a problem with the pedal assist sensor and the controller could be ok. Although your photograph...

Is it an Ananda controller?

You are not alone in experiencing these problems. I just found another older thread with exactly the same problem. The design of that bike makes it easy for water to get in and not so easy for it to get out, so no wonder your controller has drowned. Consider drilling a drainage hole in the...

Halfords are good enough for tools and sensibly priced.