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Is it a Lishui controller? If it is and if it accepts a throttle, the circuit board will have the following three pins that you connect to the throttle. You may find the wiring is already soldered in and you just need to plug in your throttle. SP5V = Throttle +5v SPGND = Throttle 0v SP =...

If you whack a kit on your mtb it will be up and running within a couple of hours. Then you are not tied down to manufacturer specific parts when things need replacing. And you can easily unlock extra potential later if needs or wants arise. Or you can just pick and choose a suitable motor...

Plenty of people have trouble with hydraulic brake sensors using magnets and reed switches. You can now buy cheap and cheerful hydraulic levers with built in sensors, but I don’t want to replace my Clarke levers with these things...

I’m amazed that nothing fell off today.

It’s muddy out there today

Either post here or start a new thread with plenty of photos including the controller and connectors. Then someone will advise you what to do.

I left mine disconnected. Mine work ok on tarmac but as soon as I go off road they keep making the motor cut in and out every time I hit even the slightest of bumps. I think the reed switches keep contacting every time I hit a bump.

I dread to think how much your multishift cost. I like your hand guards, they look like Nukeproof. Do you mind telling where you got them? Edit: it’s ok I just found them on chain reaction. And you are lucky nothing fell off. I just lost 3 front brake rotor screws on my mtb and just popped...

Have you disconnected both of them? They are an absolute pain in the arse.

Spin tech is far more than branding. It is how the motor, controller, battery and display are all integrated.

The problem with modifying manufactured bikes like yours is that everything is nicely integrated, so when you try to modify them with 3rd party components you have to sacrifice all of the nice aesthetics when you start bolting on different batteries and controllers with their associated wiring...

There are a couple for sale on Ali Express with that connector, but I couldn’t find any on Amazon or eBay. If you don’t want to risk a purchase through Ali Express you will probably have to end up cutting and soldering. It’s worth doing some diagnostics first to make sure the display is...

You won’t be able to create enough torque to spin out the wheel with normal peddle power unless you are a Tour de France cyclist.

You need a round file to make the drop out diameter 14mm. The width is fine at 10mm, so you don’t want to mess with that or the motor will try and twist out when you apply torque. Once you start filing you are committed to using a 14mm axle in that frame.

Yes It looked like 14mm which is why it doesn’t fit well, so you will definitely have to gently fettle the frame to get it seated better if you are going to run at or above 2KW. Post some photos of where you intend to fit the torque arms and someone more knowledgeable than me will advise from...

Is it a 12mm x 10mm or 14mm x 10mm axle on your motor?

That’s a torque washer. Torque arms are different and at 2Kw it is highly advisable to put a torque arm on both sides. These are torque arms, There are several types. One piece torque arms are better, but you will have to make them yourself to fit. Two piece torque arms like these are readily...

This fella explains it very well.

Putting legalities to one side. You can fit a bigger controller with a matched display. But it depends if the motor can take the extra power without overheating. A KT48 controller will give you 1000 to 1500 watts with a considerable reduction in range. If the motor temperature gets too high...

A new switch unit for your display is around £20...