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Saneagle above is concerned that perhaps your tools 'pushing end' is sized and shaped such that it pushes into and not onto the axle end. if so perhaps blutack and a small coin could provide a surface to push against?

Also - a smear of jbweld between the matting faces might reduce the shear strain on the screws

Cost?? Not an engineer, but it strikes me by the time the 2nd part of a 2 part arm comes into play the bike frame and or the first part will have already failed. I would go with your design and SS or extra strong machine screws to fix.

The folk over on endless sphere (link in 1st reply) will know..

An old toothbrush may help clean out the threads of the tool and crank arm to perhaps enable a better fit when oiled?? Its the crankarm arm not so much the spindle you want to heat up to expand.. If you can get the tool to fit? fit it in place to protect the spindle/axle and use a heat gun to...

tp4056 is good to charge a single cell or group of parallel cells only. 10x could charge a 10s battery quickly with a suitable 10a power supply behind them ;) but would be a pita to wire up.. even if you can probably buy 10x for the price of 1 x amazon option on ebay/china

Pretty sure one of my chargers behaves in a similar fashion if turned on prior to plugging into the battery. But as soon as its plugged into the battery a second or so later it changes to red and charging ensues. and so far my rough hours needed and a suitable time set on the segment timer i...

GB News aka Sunday Spurt TV Up next 'Labour building trans camps on the moon'

Hi, start your own thread and include pictures, sounds like your forks are being compressed onto a too narrow wheel hub and perhaps a couple of spacer washers each side or on the disc side only may help? but tbh im out of my depth and this issue is deserving of its own thread and replies.

check both brake levers are fully closed, if cables are loose and the levers are not tight against the base the brake cut off feature may have cut off the motor. and if a 2 piece pas sensor with a magnet disk check all magnets are in place, and its rotating within a few mm of the sensor.

That pic would indicate the bike has enough power to work, but only a meter reading will indicate its real health state.. so meanwhile dble check connections,, the julet waterproof connectors often found on e bikes are notorious for needing axtra oomph to fully close and open up.. and the have...

a multimeter volt reading of the battery voltage will indicate its health when fully charged your battery should read close to 42v (if a '36v' battery). the led indicator is just that and not accurate. if 41v or less fully charged - return it.. or at least try charging again.. Photos are...

II certainly require more than 300w of assistance climbing hills,, To employ a 36v motor you would also require a controller able to handle a 36v supply you would fry a 24v controller before the motor suffered any ill effects.. afaik excess heat would be your major concern 'overvolting'...

Hi Looks like your controller is enclosed within the battery holder base? 3 main aspects to an ebike motor, battery, and controller/display. If replacing the controller you generally need to replace the display too as they are often paired with custom firmware. Im not aware of replacement...

The led indicators on a battery are just that they give you a rough idea of the battery level, a meter reading of the output voltage will reveal much more about the battery and its health. if its charged upto close to 42v thats a very healthy sign, charging upto 39-40v less so.. Is there an...

Sugru is a mouldable rubber fix it product you could perhaps use to form replacement custom plugs on suitable gauge wires for a diy solution??

+1 to the above, check the battery voltage after a full charge.. and double/tripple check connections and plugs. if not already in your tool kit a basic multimeter to check voltage levels and continuity is a worthwhile addition to your toolkit. also clean and check battery connection terminals...

Yikes, at first glance it looks like a pneumatic switch pumping air through the broken prongs.. An epoxy putty product, 2 part putty in a 'sausage roll' lob off an end with a knife and kneed the 2 parts together for a mouldable putty/clay may allow you to form a workable fix, melt a cm or so...

Perhaps post a pic or 2? In my minds eye your chances of finding a standard microswitch perhaps embedded within a dayglo yellow fitting are high.. With pics of the switch/void im sure a few workable suggestions could be forthcoming? Im game for a punt at your expense of time n effort ;)

DOH! bet it looks good tho..