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its a throttle found in many scooter kits the display is a volt meter to give battery state indication readings and the lil red battery will indicate low battery voltage,

my first fit was upside down, spotted in the pic i 'proudly' posted here thankfully. Not a big deal in the instructions iirc though i may not have looked at them :)

the Pas sensors with the hall sensor anchored to a metal ring is intended to sit on the chain ring side of the crank and is expected to be held in place with the bottom bracket retaining thing.. if you want a left side sensor lift the one pictured or buy a similar left side sensor. dont get...

Ha, "SAT NAV" I was suffering word blindness above ' 'Sat Nav' eluded my recall completely! aargghhhh!

hope you write a conversion/fix thread, are you going to fit an in the battery sled kt controller, or in tube option, or or are you going with the standard silver box?? That sure sounds familiar @Cadence as soon as i had put in the order for my kit i was looking at getting the restrictions...

Wot no cycle proficiency day in Primary schools anymore?? Next you will be telling me there is no milk before nap time and housing associations with ex tory Councillors on the board have built houses on the playing fields.. oh- right..

Can op take a snap of the motor etching and if present the lil sticker as per the regs?

Did you try the '350w display' with the 15a controller? like op may have? Yose-Power may compound the issue by selling 2x brands of 15a controller, with the cassette kits its a JYT brand controller supplied, this may be the one with problems?? Its the type i have and after reading about issues...

A mobile phone with a gps enabled directions/map app should give you a real time speed.

You can buy a backlight thats 'smart' and can detect slowing down due to braking and shine a bit brighter to emulate a brake light.. ;) Other than bleeding edge sports enhancements and an eventual trickle down I think that about sums it up ;)

Not knowing the 2014 Freggo bike and too lazy to google, probably not a lot, possibly better hydraulic brakes, perhaps a bit of a nominal upgrade in the gearing, up to date colour scheme/design? but if the 10yr old battery is getting tiered, your best bet is probably just to get a new battery ;)

If you can change settings beyond speed metric and wheel size its not a 'restricted' 250w kit display but a 350w/18a kit display. there may be a compatibility issue down to the f/w implementation? I seem to recall reading reports of failure attempting to use a 350w kit displays sold as an...

In order to travel south, south east out of town from here i need to take bendy 2 lane b unlit country roads with tall hedges and national speed limit, Not really an option on my 'city bike' and at night simply a frightening prospect, a comparable speed to other road users is a must for safety...

I would recommend this local bike shop, last time i dropped in he was fitting a switch kit for a client and rides with a dinner plate front wheel..

IF for example your wishlist is for a 17a sine wave controller to hide inside a hailong battery slide with Julet connections an 9 mosfets and a ktlcd5 and cables to connect to your brake sensors and pas etc so 1 to4 or 1 to5, email that to tobikekit and see if they can provide it, thier...

The 'trick is to feed new wires in 1 at a time, the biggest plugs first as plugs present the biggest problem, then use tape to form a conical shape over the plug and around the feed cord to help guide, gaffer tape is the best but a pita to remove.. and ensure the knot in the loop is always far...

or tie a cord to one end of the wires you pull out to pull the new wires in with, use a long enough length so you can tie the ends together as a loop and cable tie new wires to it as needed, only cutting and removing when done. the loop also ensures it stays in place, without it you will stand...

So Op's Motor could be 500w, OP- your aftermarket display should have enough bells and whistles to display watt expenditure under load? so how many watts does your motor consume when pushed under load, iirc a 'legit 250w' motor can consume 7,800w+ with a sufficient controller and battery if...

I never realised it was quite that blatant!! but if rated at 500w in one market they are defacto 250w safe too. so its not wrong.. just highlights the problem using power rating as a limiting metric.

Clarity please, is it a 250w 'mislabeled' motor flying under the regs with a hobbled f/w in the off the shelf display that you have over-ridden with a aftermarket display? or something else?