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Mines rated at 36v 250w however a draw of 10a at 36v means in reality its around 360w.

Mine draws around 10a at 30kph. If I back my speed down to 20kph the current draw is near half, therfore doubling my range. That controller is supposed to current limit, however I've never been able to get it to work.

The green wires are only connected when setting the motor direction. In normal use, the green wires will be disconnected. Disconnect the green wires and set the controller to 3 and and reconnect the green wires. The motor will power up. If the motor turns the wrong way, disconnect the green...

I ended up with a 36v, 250w rear hub. This was commandeered from an EasyMotion commuter/city bike. Its quite small so doesn't really look electric, although the deep alloy wheels do give a bit away!

I have to say I get some weird looks each morning (530am) when I pass much newer bikes while my chain guard is clattering away! It's turned out to be a very practical, comfortable with a bit of speed in it and a bit more character than most other electrics.

Have to report the the "don't do it guys", I've had no problems, done a bit over 500km so far. My 18km round trip each day for work is around 18min each way, average speed 30kph.

I read that as he paid the insurance company out the £500

How's this..... My battery has in it an alarm, activated by movement. Its armed and disarmed by remote. Also inside is also a GPS tracker. The GPS tracker will run for months on the battery. As an added benefit, I've put a voltage cut out between the battery and GPS tracker, so when the battery...

Even with the white speedo sensor wire connected, I've been unable to get the speedo to work unless the controller is powering the motor. These controllers will work with or without hall sensors, although e7 will be displayed if the halls are not connected. Without halls the motor will be...

Up and running today, although currently its all just zip tied together, mostly to make sure it all works! Speed controller is running sensor-less at the moment so acceleration is a bit nosier than it will be when finished. GPS speedo attached to the bars for speed check, that's not staying...

I got an eZee Sprint ages ago as a non runner. Most of the wiring and elec had been ripped off so I replaced the speed controller and display with a Chinese one. Everything worked good as gold however I noticed if you pedaled backwards it DIDN'T trick the controller into powering up the motor, I...

Ive already ordered some, im dubious at best!

and it would cut out. a voltage display at the battery showed voltage to be fine, even though the display was showing it as low. the problem turned out to be the main power feed to the controller, it had a bad connection

so it works fine with pas? your screen should display PAS and THL if its set to run from throttle and pas.

I had this issue with a bad connection between the battery and the controller.

Somewhat true. Most people under 40 will have never seen a dynamo hub, or know what one is.

The bike originally had internal gears like the Pashley. I converted using a modern wheel set with hub motor, so its now a single speed. I still have my Dynamo but am now powering the original lights from the ebike battery. You have 3 options for conversion.... Rear hub drive, like mine...

1973/4 Raleigh Sport. New wheels, with rear hub motor fitted, all the electriclery is in the saddle bag. To complete I am waiting on wiring.

The rear caliper has an inline switch to keep me a bit safer

So as much as I wanted to keep the 3 speed rear hub, a set of unused, 2 year old wheels from an electric bike came up, so I bought them for $80nz (£40). Both were a near bolt on fit, with VERY minimal widening of the frame/fork (2-3mm each side, total 4-6mm). The motor is a rear drive, with...