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Completely off ebike topic but I believe there are some electronic 'old timer' geniuses on this forum who may be able to help my dad. He listens to 'wireless' (radio to us) on LW (or AM I think) and is getting a constant intermittent buzz buzz buzz sound regardless of where in the house I move...

I've put spd clipless pedals on mine and the benefits are being able to pedal upwards too for more power and the cycling does feel more solid but as d8veh says there is the falling off bit which I have a few times and still have a sore shoulder from one fall so maybe not good for cycle paths or...

Can't make it but hope to see lots of photo's next week.

I will add a voltmeter to the bottle battery and keep an eye on it, thanks.

It seems I got my calculations wrong. My 6aH booster lipo only gave about 17 miles before alarming just before I got home so the 6aH capacity is no good BUT more importantly does not match the "supposed 6.5aH" capacity of my bottle battery which my wattmeter suggested it gave before cutting...

I will be using a lipo safety bag, similar to these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lipo-Safe-Charging-Bag-Safety-Fireproof-Charging-Sack-/151300990888?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item233a3de7a8...

I also got one of these cell checkers as well. It's not essential but I have found it really handy to double check cell voltages and give overall capacity left. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43590__Turnigy_dlux_Auto_Checker_2_6S_LiPo_Battery_Checker_and_Balancer_UK_Warehouse_.html

I got the BC168 recommended by d8veh and it's easy to use and good in that it displays individual cell voltages which I found helpful being a beginner to lipo's. I doubt you will get charged import duty on it either. You will also need a power supply for it, you could use a 12v laptop charger...

Thanks d8veh, that will make it easier.

I'm planning a future lipo battery of 44v possibly 8aH and am wondering if anyone experienced could tell me whether it is better to go with 2x 6s 8aH batteries in series or 4x 6s 4aH in parallel and series Both ideas are similar weights but I am thinking by using the 4x packs will put less...

I don't think you will cut 3mm aluminium with those snips. Maybe a junior hacksaw may be better.

While inspecting the teeth, I found this tiny slither of steel causing the problem. Next is to find out where it's come from. It turn out after removing the brake disk I had screwed the fixing screws all the way back in the housing and they had been catching on the rivets on the clutch part...

A piece of steel with a large cst size hole and 3 small holes around it with studs welded in to match the 3 holes around the cst shaft. Placed in vice and using the wheel rim to turn the motor housing.

Part way through rebuilding this motor into a 26" rim something didn't feel quite right with it's rotation, kind of as if a nut has tightened inside on the spindle or something. Time to make a special tool and open it up to take a look. Nothing looks out of order but a clean and some new grease...

Got any spec's on the new motor, or is it not released yet? I can't find it at any of the usual suppliers for info.

I never knew that,thanks. Think I will go and adjust my back pressure to just below max and front pressure to just above min to see how it goes.

Will a 250w controller @16a happily run a 500w CST motor ? with either 44v lipo or 36v 10aH bottle battery ?

Any chance of a link to some reasonable flux and solder, the stuff I got to practice with doesn't flow very well and just seems to crackle and pop and dries dull and any flux just seems to be for plumbing.

I have PAS on low to simply help get the bike moving from a standstill and when moving I do the work pedalling but keep the throttle just a smidge over my speed so I'm not out of breath. This makes pedalling really easier, gives me more (pedalling)speed and cancels out headwinds.

Looks a really nice bike d8veh. Wow is that 20aH's worth nearly 6kg? How is it all strapped down?