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Yosepower do a 250w front kit. I am familiar with the older 28/700c (2019) kt/lcd3 version. It had a low 210 rpm front motor and was designed for 25km/15mph. ( The 350w rear was advertised as 280rpm and 32km/20 mph) Anyhow, it seems to be a very reliable if slow motor. Its fitted to strong steel...

I got this for a number of reasons. It was going cheap, I already had a suitable donor bike, I had plenty of 36v battery power (that I can transfer quickly) and I wanted something legal that could be easily be put into the back of a car. I though it might be a suitable and legal replacement for...

Hi. I was able to dismantle the freewheel cluster and re-arrange the cogs. I now only use the 14,16,19,24 & 34 (at 4.8mm c/c spacing) moved to the outside to reduce chain crossover. I have 44/34 on the front. (36v Tsdz2) I also re-spaced the axle with washers (and a little re-dishing to...

I have a similar setup with a yosepower 350w with pedal assist sensor on rear and a mxus 250w with throttle only on front. It has worked great for the last 3 years and over 20,000km, and has got me comfortably up steep hills that would not of been possible otherwise. The only technical problem...

We talking about very low levels of energy here, even in the worst case. The kinetic energy (momentum) in the wheel will be about 50 joules and in Carbon's bike, it depletes over 19 seconds. The energy loss in this example is about 2.5 joules/sec or 2.5 watts. However this loss takes place over...

I am only familiar with the mxus and bafang, but with them, the clutch is between the planetary gear triangular body/carrier and the axle. During motor freewheeling (unpowered) , the motor pinion is stationary, the whole triangular planetary gear body which is normally locked to the axle now...

P.S. I note that the mxus has straight cut gears whereas the the akm has helical gears. The straight gears (although noisier) can be more efficient in that they dont generate sideways thrust. Google 'helical vs straight gears'. But the power loss is probably very little anyway.

I dont have a camera phone. I am the kind of guy that keeps things running for years. My phone is over 10 years old and that hub has over 26 thousand km clocked up.

No. Thats with about 18mph max speed and v brakes unhooked. I also have a yose 250 front that looks almost identical to xf07. That runs for over 60 seconds. I would imagine that these might be different to akm in that they have a simpler single stage type gear reduction of 1 to 4.14.

Front wheel mxus xf07 700c 38c, schwalbe energiser tyre, runs for 85 seconds.

Ah....But you need to compare 'like with like' as regards the weight/size of the tyre and rim. A hub fitted with a large and heavy 29"tyre will have a greater 'flywheel effect' than a smaller lightweigh 16" wheel on a Brampton, so should spin for longer.

This guy in video above makes it look easy. I find that the tube needs to be fully deflated ( and sometimes valve removed) for it to work. I tend to use levers to remove tyre as I tend to leave the wheel on the bike. I never use leavers to put back on the tyre.

If you can reduce the dish/offset a little, it makes the wheel stronger. This involves using washers/re-spacing axle to move the wheel over more towards the drive side and then re dishing the wheel back with a spoke key. It can be tricky and easier to do with v brakes. The less gears, the...

I think the above link is used only by endless sphere. There is a wiki page. I think is still has a lot of work to do. https://www.pedelecforum.de/wiki/doku.php?id=elektrotechnik:open_source_firmware_fuer_lishui_-controller

You may be interested, the German Forum has a long thread on an OSF project on the Lishiu controller. (Its readable in English on my win 7 with Google Chrome using normal translate). I dont know how useful it is or how well its devoloped...

I am using an electrical 16 amp mcb for years to turn off the battery on a front wheel kit with no display. It has given no problems except they are a little large. These switches can typically momentarily carry 10,000 amps (rated breaking capacity). e.g. typical spec below. They also act as an...

Putting lighter spokes on the NDS is also an option that I have tried and works well. The original 13g stainless steel spokes were too rigid for the lighter tension on the non drive side. I fitted cheap galvanized 14g on the nds side only which were far more flexible and bedded in nicely at the...

Those break cut off switches are a legal requirement (I think) on all many new shop-sold bikes but some people think that they are not necessary, especially on a bike with no throttle. You could probably get one of the brake levers going as I doubt if both levers would go faulty at the same...

There are switches built into the left and right hand brake levers. If the levers are not sitting properly/ not in normal position, those warning lights combination flash. The switches/wiring can also stick/go faulty. The good news is that the bike can work without them. First, visually check...

I think the safest and quickest option would be to bin the battery. Here why. I would be worried that the 4.1v group has serious problems. When you attempted to charge the pack, the BMS appeared to have done its job by shutting down the charging and not allowing that group to go any higher. Had...