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I don't do any work in the spring, summer,autumn apart from covering delivery drivers holidays for a friend who has a small automotive parts business when I am in the UK. In the winter I am a Ski Instructor. (Used to be an engineer but gave that up 3 years ago)

I'll wager there are hundreds if not thousands of sub 50 mile ebikes in the UK.

A little ride this morning! Wasn't all good though on one of the downhills sections I came across a crowd on a bend, went round the bend and there was a helicopter parked on the road. Just before the helicopter in front of a line of cars was a Bosch powered Haibike without rider. A German woman...

You obviously don't ride where I do! With my standard gearing climbing mountains is very hard going and means I need to use a higher assist level and I can spin out on the flat causing lots of wear on thehigher gears. With my double chainring conversion it has improved the bike no end. Now I can...

http://www.schwalbe.com/gb/offroad-reader/smart-sam.html although not ebike ready that is only important for s pedelecs

It all depends why you want the light in the first place. I was commuting and often took a 20 miles detour on the way home so a good reliable light was essential. A Hope 1 is also a very different beast to a Hope 4, OK for commuting on road but that is about all.

I have played with cheap lights too and still use a converted Tesco Cree 5w torch powered by 3 AA rechargeable batteries as a high power head torch to give me the ability to look where the handlebars aren't pointing. It is no substitute for the Hope!

I've probably spent less than quite a few people who go through 2-3 lights per winter with multiple failures never really knowing if the light will fail / fall apart evert ride.

Pleased I bought a Hope 4 many years ago, still going strong, gives enough light for riding 20+ mph on bridleways etc. Seems better than messing about with all this Chinese fake rubbish to me.

Don't think I am ready for a thumb throttle just yet ;)

You have just spoilt my evening, I have a spare mech hanger in my mtb bag but don't have one for my Haibike! I am still more comfortable on the mtb (a lot lighter and better forks) on ready rough terrain than on the Haibike but the gap is narrowing I'm hoping I cannot get away with it until I...

I have an old topeak hexus which has a variety of Allen keys, flat and pozi screwdrivers, tyre levers and most importantly as Eddie says a chain tool. I was caught once miles from anywhere with a rear mech ripped off by a stray tree branch and without the ability to shorten the chain and...

If the rebound damping is set too high the fork will pump up and reduce its travel over a series of bumps. This is what will throw you over the bars when you hit something big and only have 30mm of travel left. If the rebound damping is too soft the wheel will bounce about at higher speeds...

I know when I was 14 I could get to well over 30mph on a slight down grade and a lot more when it was steeper. 80 mile rides on a bike made of old gas pipes (BSA Tour of Britain for those that can remember them) was a weekly occurance during the summer.

They will move the weight back again.

Totally agree on the road suspension forks make little difference but cycle tracks are an unknown variable, one man's rough track may be a billiard table to another. I do know there is a huge difference in forks including air forks, the Suntours on my Haibike are not in the same league as the...

Can you fit the battery on the front rack? If you move the bars forward you may be able to do as Fordulike says and move the saddle forwards. I don't know how much input you provide when climbing but be careful not to upset your riding position as this could have a negative impact on your input.

The more weight you can get on to the driving wheel the better. Do you know the actual angle and length of the steep part? You could set the bike up at the same angle with the front wheel on bathroom scales and measure the difference various mods make, then stick the scale under the rear wheel...

25-26 mph on a level road is not working me hard but as always this varies from person to person. I am quite happy and actually prefer riding and unpowered mtb but where I am living for large parts of the year is incredibly hilly. I usually average 10% climbing.

I don't know if it is something to do with the Bosch primary 2.5:1 reduction gearing, I don't really see how Yamaha with a 1:1 primary and possibly a1:1 secondary could detect this reliably enough to prevent customer complaints.