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Going the full exposure route: I've removed end nut and bearings but not sure how to remove the clutch/gear assembly. I've found similar videos that talk about removing a snap ring, but mine does seem to have one (see photo), nor to I own snap ring pliers! So what is next step? I'm just...

I know from earlier testing that it is the green wire hall sensor that is faulty (close-up photo below). I'd much rather attempt replacement in situ without all the gear mechanism removal if possible. So how to approach it? Is there a best technique or tool? Just yanking on the three black...

Next Step? Covering successfully removed using your suggested method. How to expose the hall sensors? The face where the cable enters seems to be delicately mounded/attached, so does that mean removing all the gear mechanism and knocking the central spindle out from the other side? Looks...

Picture tells a thousand words. Is this what you mean? Chris

If I'm picturing this correct. Are you saying lay the flange/lip lid flat suspended between 2 blocks and then ensuring the cable is safely out the way in the groove, hit that same end down to open? Chris

My prizing off suggestion must have crossed paths with your "couple of blocks and tap" in the ether. Noted.

P.S. Can I simply prize the top cover off with a heavy duty screwdriver, or is a more cautious approach needed. Is there perhaps more prior dismantling required?

What do I do now? I've decided to bite the bullet and replace the hall sensor. With basic tools I've surprised myself how far I've got dismantling the old rear hub motor (see photos); but don't know how to expose the hall sensors? I can't find a model number on my Befang 36v 250 rear hub motor...

KT 880 with 5 pin block (not round) connector.

Thanks very much for your controller compatibility notes. I realise that it is not a good match after all. So this leaves with two options: attempting a Hall sensor replacement or buying the exact match KT controller for £49 (see link below). Thanks forum advisors for reaching the best...

Link below is for cheap Dual Mode Sensor/Sensorless that is very similar to existing one. Existing is 36v 250w "Rated current 7A", while link below is same except for "Limit Current 15A" - not sure if this matters? Being dual mode does anything need to be switched within controller or do I...

Have soldering iron. Looking at videos, will I also need to purchase a "Freewheel tool" to remove the gear cassette?

Agreed. The helpful video posted on Pedelecs 1/3/19 includes an extractor tool and heat gun, neither of which I own and would be reluctant to buy for perhaps a one time use. So can I attempt the job with just my rudimentary tools? Thanks. Chris

Done your testing turning wheel backwards: Black & Red = 5v. Black & Yellow fluctuate between 0 & 5v. Also Black & Blue the same. But Black & Green remains 5v the whole time. It would appear this is the faulty Hall Sensor? I viewed a Pedelecs entry 1st March by "Eagle" that has instructions...

If there is a simple way to test hall sensors then I’ll have a go – point me to instructions/video. I have to declare that my soldering of small circuit boards isn’t great as I discovered when trying to replace controller mosfets. I had to give up and instead bought an inexpensive replacement...

My old bike has no pedal assist, just throttle twist grip feeding a Bafang 36v 250w rear hub motor via a KT controller. Applying throttle will faintly twitch the motor on each twist, but ceases after a few repetitive twists. The clunk of death happened when attempting a long steep hill on...

I did attempt to fix the old bike and bought an inexpensive new controller, but the same problem persists - a twitching hub motor when throttle on. I did initially hear a mechanical clunk within the hub motor when it stopped working; so fault would appear to point to there. My old electric...

I’m planning to upgrade my faulty old electric bike with a new Woosh Santana CD. Annoyingly, I recently bought a new battery for my old bike and wonder if via an adaptor cable I can utilise it as a backup for the new bike? Is this idea feasible? Thanks. Chris

Thank you vfr400 for your prompt and helpful reply. Turning throttle still initiated twitch from motor hub wheel. I then opened/inspected the cables near the controller and the larger ones had certainly melted (see photo). I separated them and noted they still held a connection. I then opened...

My old (adapted over the years) electric bike has a Bafang 36v 250w rear hub motor. With the old style twist throttle on full I pedaled up a long very steep hill. (Coming from flat Norfolk I was naively unused to Peak District Hills!). Nearing the top I heard a clunk from the rear hub motor and...