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I can remember about 8 or 10 years ago, there were various websites running scams like that. You can see that the web address isn't Costco, so something is clearly wrong.

We can get a good idea about what's right and wrong with the battery if you give us the results of two measurements. You need to measure the voltage on the battery's output terminals - typically, the two outer slots; and you need to measure the battery's voltage on its jack socket, which is not...

What type of charger jack does it have? There are two types: standard 5.5mm jack; or 5-pin jack.

If you can tell us how it started, it might give us a clue as to where to look. If I were to guess, I'd say that you have a shorted MOSFET or damaged motor cable. Is the motor cable connector in all the way to the line? 1mm short can cause that problem.

Are they set to 48v instead of 36v?

Can you find out who is the policeman in charge of testing ebikes, and get their details, then I'll write to them to explain why that test is invalid? All three of those bikes seized have dinner-plate direct drive motors in them. Whatever test the police did would result in those bikes getting...

That's the integrated type. We were expecting the open external type because That's what you said in post #3. The type you have can slip on the shaft either when they get worn or when they're not installed properly so the inner rubs on something. Look at the position of the writing in relation...

OK, I get it. That's the over-shoot speed that you get with the wheel in the air. That's not the way to test it. All ebikes will do that, especially if you only have one magnet on the wheel for the speed sensor. It takes the controller some time to calculate the speed from the single magnet...

Have you set the wheel size correctly? How fast is the bike actually going when it says 45km/hr? Which LCD do you have?

I would have thought that an LCD showing 45km/hr is asking for problems. How fast did it actually go? You don't need a programming cable to set the speed limit. You can do it directly in the LCD. Download a manual for your LCD to find out how.

I did mention magnets falling out above, but according to what he wrote himself, there are 5 missing, which would be the cause of the problem. The problem can be temporarily solved by pressing out anothe one to leave 6 and place them in every other hole to get an even pattern. They must be kept...

Can you explain point 2 again in a simple way for thicko? I can't make any sense from it. My C5 is on 10, and it never changes.

what exactly? have you set your throttle as a power over-ride with P4=1 and C4=3?

I think there's a forum for that stuff somewhere - and possibly a cure.

To me, the standard firmware seems to be pretty good. What do you want to improve?

About 50% of the base plate connectors have the outer pairs of pins paired up, but it's rare to see that inside the batteries, so a bit of a futile effort.

For towing a trailer, a bike with small wheels would be better because a hub-motor gets more torque with them and the motor runs faster and more efficiently. With big wheels, it would probably run too slowly which would overheat it. A bike with big wheels would need a crank-motor, but nearly...

OK, I think I managed to decode your post. You have a Phylion charger, not a Python; and it has a three-pin pentagon (PEN) jack. You're not talking about the 3-pin mains plug. That's not one of the first ones, which had the multi-pin jack. The pinouts are pin 1 positive, pin 2 negative, pin 3...

That might be normal; however, you'retalking in code that I don't understand. Carrera chargers for the HESC system don't give any voltage for charging until successful comms have been established. If your bike has the Bafang motor with standard 9 pin motor connector, it has a standard Chinese...

That's a good point. I remember testing an old Ezee battery. It always showed 42v when charged and a nice evenely balanced cell set, but every time I tried to draw any current, the voltage totally collapsed.