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Wiring diagram is shown in post #52 exactly as you want it if you want to make the module removable, otherwise ignore the connectors.

I'd start by doing the MOSFET test: Disconnect the motor cable and battery from the controller. Measure the resistance (200k scale) between the red battery connection and each of the three phase wire connections, then repeat with the black battery wire. Each set of 3 readings should be the same...

Pin 1 has a direct connection to the battery positive wire going into the controller, so it can't really have missing voltage unless the cable has been chopped.

The truth about our energy supply? Is she talking sense? Does she know what she's talking about? This video was made before the Spanish blackout!

LCD1 should be avoided - limited settings LCD3 is standard and does it all LCD4 is small and discrete, but the buttons are too small for gloved hands LCD5 is cheap and convenient LCD8 does it all, but is expensive There are other ones (LCD6?) that I haven't tried.

What about DIY ebikes then?

All those points apply to the Conservative and Labour Governments.

You can get a 24v/36v dual voltage one from Topbikekit.

You can run it at 24v to get 2/3 maximum speed, but then the power goes down by 2/3 too.

Motors don't have a power, so there's no way a COC can certify it. The power depends on the controller and battery.

nother problem I thought of is that the 750w max output power wouldn't be easy for the police or anybody else to check. They'd need a dynamometer. When I said it would be easy to meaure in ny previous post, I meant in a lab if there were any dispute about it, not at the roadside. You can imagine...

You don't need to assume anything. Dumb batteries have only two power wires connected to the output connector. Very occasionally, they'll double them up to 4 pins with each pair having the same thick wires, black and red. Any battery with comms will have extra wires fitted to the connector, and...

I think that Bosch guy made a lot of sense with what he said. 750w maximum power output would be easy to measure. It's roughly 22A at 48v, which should be enough to get a 100kg rider up the steepest hills they're likely to encounter without getting a heart attack. I don't know where that leaves...

No you don't. I figured it out for you today. You're pressing the button too long. It only switches off with a short press. You need a long press to switch on, but a short one to switch off. If you press it too long to switch off, nothing happens.

I've told you guys before, several times. When people make a complicated and convoluted technical explanation for what caused some problem, that sounds sort of feasible, it's nearly always a distraction from the true cause, which is nearly always something simple and direct. This is a...

Last time I looked inside a nuclear reactor, there was a load of very hot plasma in there, which burnt my face. I think you're thinking of steam engines that have flywheels.

You guys!! You just can't deal with it, can you?

That would be caused by either a faulty switch or water has go inside.

Building burn't by EVs spontaneously igniting in the underground carpark: https://world.thaipbs.or.th/detail/57379

It's not a fatbike motor. It's an ordinary ebike one with an extra 15mm stuck on the side for the band-brake. It's the same motor as the one used on a Cyclamatic Power Plus and many similar bikes.