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All solder connections look good, nice neat BMS with a mystery button. Any ideas?

So pack out and on the bench, its screwed and glued together. Great. Heatgun and blades used to pry it apart.

Nearly there, lots of swearing and chipped paint. You'll notice the straps are now broken.

Then the bike was turned over for the nail biting pack removal. The pack is glued into the frame and has two straps on it for removal (yeah right). The glue is actually foam tape, i found out later.

So rather than hijack http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/battery-care.19875/ I thought I'd start a new thread regarding the removal and test of the frame battery that lives in the downtube. It's very picture heavy so stick with me! First job was to pull the "Switch Pack" i.e. the relay...

I'd thought that as well but my dashboard meter is wired straight off the battery output and it shows the sag. I'd thought I may have disturbed something when I'd had the rear wheel off recently but thinking about it that would have cut power to the motor without showing the sag on the meter...

As soon as I'm back on the flat the voltage is back up to 42v. More testing and maybe some photo's today.

Just had a thought, would this work? Charge to pack to full, remove it and measure all the cell voltages. Then connect my 3 * 50w 12v bulbs (in series) and measure the cells again. Whichever has the biggest drop under load is the duff one. Would that be a sensible way (plus means I'm not...

The whole pack bounces back up to full after the sag though so might be tricky to catch. Is there a way of replicating it with the pack on the bench as its a swine to pull out every time?

There's some great tear down pictures here http://grifftek.com/grifftek/Other_Fun_Projects_and_Hobbies/a2b_internal_A_battery_pack/ A guy on ES has done me a quote for recelling the pack for £300 inc shipping ifs its dead.

Not sure how I'd find out which cell pack is sagging under load though. Any ideas (remembering its in the frame!)?

Found this out today, mines been stored for about a month with an 80% charge on it in my sub zero garage. Charged it, rode it for 5 minutes up a hill, battery dropped to the red. Currently contemplating a big build as my battery is inside the frame (A2B metro). Leaving it on a long charge to let...

or maybe one of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180971553497?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I used to get a lot of stick from two lycra boys on my commute but now when then say "thats cheating" I usually reply "It's cheaper than EPO" or just mention Lance Armstrong. That tends to shut them up a bit.

Or maybe....

Both.

I'm using ultrasonic detection for the time being as it's not affected by the light like laser detection can be. Plus it can have a wide pick up zone. LED wise, depending on whether I use an LED matrix (so messages could scroll across) or just bright leds I was thinking static (solid) LED at...

This is the one i want a go on!

So I've been doing my experiments with the rear lighting system I'm designing, and would like some feed back. The rear light will detect distance to the vehicle behind you, and as it decreases the flashing speed and intensity will increase. Also the unit will beep with its tone and speed...

I'm running straight off the main 36v battery, 3 lots of 12v led wired in series (not parallel) runs off 36v fine.