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Mine's only a 45Nm rear hub bike ! It's OK on hills - plenty of 15%, 20% and 25% hills on this route through the North York moors It took under half the estimated time for a non assisted bike (1h 17m vs 2h 36m ) - nearly 1500 ft of climbing

Yes - the power from the motor is going through the drive line - gears and chain so it has a different feel to hub, you need to concentrate a bit to keep in the right gear. I think it would be fine to go with a bigger chain wheel (obviously you'll need a longer chain as well) but my experience...

If you are doing a decent distance and using paths I would choose a 20 inch wheel - Wisper 806 or Woosh rambletta

I think @saneagle s point it pertinent - a lot of the "features" of very expensive analog bikes are, at best, irrelevant on an electric bike, or at worst, detrimental - as long as it has disc brakes, space for the battery and a conventional bottom bracket. My "road" electric bike looks very...

No it's not. The motor should not assist over 15.5 mph (or 17mph if you include the 10% leeway) but you can cycle as fast as you like non assisted

+1 - when I got the Woosh BBTS kit, it has a single chainring (I went for 48t, there was another option 44t, I think). I have 8 gears - think that is plenty on an electric bike (I can still get up 25% hills).

I will try and take a look later, I found this article from an embalmer https://sciencebasedmedicine.org/a-clot-too-far-an-embalmer-dissects-antivax-misinformation-about-blood-clots-in-died-suddenly/ There was 2 things that I learnt "White fibrin clots: Blood clots that lack red blood cells...

There is a BBS01ET that is 48v - Woosh have them

I'm embarrassed to admit I have this one Someone here suggested it It's a Zoom, I haven't adjusted it and I'm 105 kg, and it is quite subtle but moves up and down over bumps and seems well damped (not too springy or bouncy) If I was lighter I think it would be too stiff, I think you can...

https://www.fastcompany.com/90994141/why-2023-was-the-year-of-the-e-bike-and-not-the-self-driving-car

Quite often there is an option in the "advanced" or hidden menu to set the max assist speed, sometimes hold down the + and - buttons together

Topbikekit have some, yosepower does 1 (controller speed based), loads on eBay, avoid the dinner plate 1000w+ direct drives one

He found a very good source for a battery for my sisters bike https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/bosch-powerpack-frame-classic.45264/post-679865

Yes, I think rather than the relatively heavy oil filled front suspension forks (that I have on my Vulcan), that rigid forks / bigger tyres / suspension seat post might be a better option for comfort, certainly on road

I try and avoid the press fit bottom brackets on more "top end" bikes and stick with the BSA threaded bracket 1) if you are fitting a bottom bracket torque sensor or want to keep this as an option for later (or buying mid drive) 2) for a cadence sensor, the LHS pas sensor fits onto the square...

My Carrera Vulcan is 26 inch wheels, roughly 15 years old and originally had manual disc brakes. I'm not sure the xcm oil filled front suspension is really necessary on roads, but it's fine. I've only ever thought of the 26 inch wheels as an advantage, for the same speed the hub motor is...

No - I think having the hydraulic disc brakes is very important (it's an easy job to upgrade from manual disc brakes). I'd stick with your original idea, but maybe consider a rear hub. I had a carrera vulcan with manual disc brakes, but upgraded to hydraulic - well worth it.

Am I correct in thinking the cadence sensor version has speed based pas levels (and an 18 amp max current controller) and the bottom bracket torque sensor version has power based pas levels (and a 15 amp max current controller)

Just one other point - I was getting 60 miles range with reasonably heavy use of an XF08c motor with 36v 20Ah battery - so I think 36V 15Ah will do quite a bit more than your 15-20 miles max, but my experience, since getting an electric bike, is I can and want to do much longer journeys than I...

Looks good. Hydraulic disc brakes are what you want on an electric bike - you can get hydraulic brake sensors , but these are only essential if you are using a throttle. I think I would be tempted to do rear hub conversion but I think front would be fine If you wanted to spend a bit more and...