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Take the wheels off, remove the six screws that hold the disc on each wheel, flip the discs over and screw in the 6 screws. Finally, reassemble the wheels to your bike. Enoy your new braking experience.

IMHO, you'd be better off replacing both the controller and the control panel with a KT set for about £70 to £80, which will give a much more pleasant riding experience. You would have to do a bit of wiring and soldering. You can't directly replace your control panel with an LCD one. You can...

ust like the Carrera bikes with Suntour electrics, it'll be good while it works. Just like all the other bikes with Transx stuff in them, you'll be in the hands of a local dealer to get anything fixed. That's if you have one and didn't buy the bike second hand.

That's completely irrelevant. For the last 6 months, the death rate has been only 80% of what it was averaged in the years 2015 to 2019. so rather than excess deaths, there have been around 200 fewer deaths per day than there were in those years or 36,000 fewer deaths during the last 6 months...

You've misunderstood something. I can guarantee that they don't say to not charge below 17 deg. It's either a typo or yoou didn't read it right. Can you show us exactly what the instruction says? To save a lot of words, you don't need to care about temperature. Just use the battery the same as...

Carry on if you know better.

How did it break? Did you hit something or did it break while pulling away in a high gear? That's important to answer your original question.

You've been reading the wrong stuff. That's how to manage lithium cells, not how to look after an ebike battery. Your battery is managed by a BMS. You can hope what you like. It won't change anything. We gave you good advice. Do something different if you want, then come back and tell us how...

My terminology: Forks = front, frame = rear.

It makes no difference. The halls are on a completely separate circuit.

Did you try a crank extractor?

You've already ruined it with a 1000w motor. A couple of holes won't make it any worse.

Yes, I know quite a lot about metallurgy. I'm a graduate chartered mechanical engineer. That was my first career. Where did you get your lack of knowledge from? We know - you read something on the internet.

Whichever is the cheapest or whichever is in stock. They're both pretty good.

If you don't want to pedal, a 48v kit would be better. The only legal one I know is the Woosh rear hub-motor kit. Another more expensive option is the 36v high torque version of the BBS01 that Brighton Bikes sells. I think the Woosh kit would be better.

You can't fit a 1000w motor in the forks of a Carrera Crossfire, so you can cross that one off. Putting a battery large enough to work a 1000w motor on a rack is very dodgy. Most ready-made racks position it too far back. You can get acceptable handling as long as you have most of the battery...

He has put the pedal sensor's magnet disk on the wrong way up. Take the pedal arm or chainwheel off (crank extractor tool required), slide the magnet disc off and flip it over

Your controller is using speed control rather than power control. Under speed control, you get full power in each level with a different max speed in each level, so going slowly up a hill, it'll make no difference which level you select. Which controller do you have? If it's a KT one, you can...

Don't run the battery to its cut-off point if you can avoid it. Always charge your bike to full before you ride it unless you're only going for a short ride. Advice above is from somebody that prefers to install his brakes backwards, so be careful.

They're not the symptoms of a defective motor. The most common cause for that is the motor not in ALL THE WAY to the MARKED LINE. In tight is not enough. After that, it's the pedal sensor knocked out of line. See here: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/pendleton-motor-feels-wrong.41823/...