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Yes indeed a presta has the stepped stem/valve nut which will fit a schrader hole.

lcd4 has a voltage readout , you just have to toggle the on/off button quickly for the three screen data changes. The only data missing over the lcd3 are the watts reading and air temp reading. I reverted back to lcd3 as I found it better to use, my lcd4 was a little erratic and the voltage...

Canbus /bafang good luck on that one. If the display wires have shorted then most likely something has shorted in the controller as well. It needs a service engineer to sort it out but doubt there ar emany for bafang Can.

If you want to service it properly then start with the front and rear wheel hubs , remove the nuts ,cones , loose bearings etc. Give everything a good clean then regrease and replace the old bearings with new, re-tighten/ adjust the cones/ bearing end play and refit wheels. Old bearings...

There are six assistance modes as indicated below.

My tsdz2 not woosh supplied had the following settings torque assist. Eco 40%. Tour 80% Sport 120% Turbo 180% Power assist mode. Eco 60% Tour 120% Sport 200% Turbo 300% I changed mine though to Hybrid mode which is a combo of the Power assist and Torque modes. Also I tweaked the % levels...

I use to use shrader but now use presta as I prefer them, typically presta are used I find more often in 700c or 650b rims. I always have a few schrader to presta adapters and carry one with me when out so it matters not the pump used.

The tsdz2 is quite good as it has four PAS modes and if you count Hybrid mode then five pedal assist modes.

If using a W/P solution with the moulded julet leads then fault finding becomes very awkward and difficult.

Sadly with most oem brands they let them selves down badly with after service and the replacement of display or controller should a fault occur. Our better specialist companies such as Wisper, Woosh, Volt and a few others are good in this dep't but mostly most let the public down badly with...

The description of the sensor is one and the same PAS sensor/pedal cadence sensor. Wiring colours aren't critical , what is is the sequence order of wiring . All three wire sesnors have a 5v , Gnd and signal wire so when you get your new controller and display we can help you to easily match...

My active balancer has arrived but as yet I have decided not to fit it yet as the HG2's are staying pretty well balanced with the non balance 'Be Much Smarter' brand BMS. Having charged /discharged the battery a couple more times the balance is realtively good 10 cells at 4.07v , #3 at 4.08v...

Even with the suntour hesc hub a transition to a kt set up should be fairly simple and pain free. Most often any issue is either down to a bad wire connection or a setting issue with the PAS. A P1 setting may give poor riding operation , this can be fine tuned better once the motor is working...

Hub motors rarely go wrong , only plastic gears and halls can go wrong. With the halls there are only three Green, Blue , Yellow, the Red & Black are simply the 5v supply & Gnd supply for them and the spd sensor. 3mm gap from PAS sensor to magnet is far to great, for a decent signal it needs...

Does the controller utilise learn wires ? One can try swapping a pair of phase wires to see if C/W roataion returns, other wise one will have to go thru the 36 possible permutations if the motor is a sensored one. Often three combos will work, just means a bit of time to see which is best.

When testing use low PAS and not throttle, throttle will usually deliver max current so one could end up damaging the controller if the wheel is not operating.

Afaicr P1 87 doesn't work with the HESC hub , it has to be a lot higher. A couple of forum members have successfully gone down the hesc to Kt route , if they are current maybe they can chip in with a P1 that worked. I would try 160 or 200 to see if it helps.

Is that UK deleivered price or as I expect there is 20% on top as well so bringing it to about £270//£275.

Quite alot of us operate within the law with 250w kit bikes so have no need to worry.

#10 the missing group is the thick B+ Red wire. The 29e is a pretty damn good cell though not a high power one but still a very good one especially in 5 or 6p format. It's depends on the BMS some won't allow switching even at 3v let alone the 2.5v d8ve has mentioned. If all voltages are...