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I'm glad you OK. Accidents are what happen to other people until it happens to you. Life has all sorts of surprises. The closer you live to the edge, the more you get see of the.

unfortunately, there is some sort of comms between the battery and controller, so upgrading would be complicated. Another project could be to reverse engineer the comms code and send it from the arduino. Somebody did that for the Yamaha system.

Clean the contacts on the LCD. If that doesn't do it, have a close look at the motor connector under the left side chainstay. it often gives problems. See if you can tie it with the two sides pushing together rather than tight pulling apart.

That kit probably won't give you what you're hoping for. They lack torque for hill-climbing, drain your battery very quickly, are very heavy, and aren't comfortable to pedal without power. Get one with a geared hub-motor.

You should look at robotics forums, where they do that sort of thing.

The simple answer is no. There is no switched wire for the lights in there. The LCD communicates with the motor controller using two of those wires. If the controller has the connector for lights, the software and the switching transistor, the controller will power the lights connector when the...

The problem with rim brakes like yours is that they're inconsistent and often deteriorate rapidly. When they're new, they're often grabby, and they'll send you over the handlebars if you squeeze too hard. A week later, all they do is make noise rather than stopping you. High spec blocks help a...

If your bike still works, it happened some time in the past. It is quite a common problem. It's partly due to the crappy connectors and low temperature pvc shrouds and partly due to going slow for too long up hills. Don't waste you time and money with new connectors. Just solder the wires...

It's very simple. Always a rear hub-motor unless there's some reason you can't. There are safety issues with a front motor, the noise is worse, they upset both your handling and suspension and you lose traction on steep hills when you need it most, and on any slippery surfaces. It's not...

Whirring or grinding/rasping noise? Whirring is because the motor is spinning backwards (self learning sorts that), because the gears are stripped (needs a new clutch assy) or because the clutch is stuck (needs a new clutch).

Let's make it easy. Bafang crank motors often blow the controllers and strip the nylon gear because they get too hot. Hub-motors just soldier on. I'm working back from that position.

Your bike will be much better with an S06S controller and any of the KT LCDs. Don't forget to set it to "Torque simulation" mode (current control) to get the soft start you want.

You can't fit disc brakes to that bike. it has no fixing points for the calipers. The motor should fit into the bottom bracket. it's the diameter and length that matters, not the threads. The motor doesn't use the threads. it has its own thread and clamping nuts. Some Raleighs have weird...

You won't find a throttle on a Bosch bike. The Wisper Wayfarer looks like a good match for your requirements. I'd go for the hub-motor version if you want reliability. At 44 v, it's more powerful than your average hub-motored 250w ebike...

The hub-motor is spinning relative to the air, so it's like fan-assisted cooling, and it has a much bigger surface area to lose the heat from. The surface area of an exposed on one side crank motor is 2piRL + piRR. For a hub motor it's 2piRL + 2piRR. A BBS01 is about 4" dia and 4" long, and a...

You can tell if a bike hasn't been used much by the marks on the pedals and cranks. A high mileage bike has a lot of paint/lacquer worn of the pedal arms. How clean the chain is, also is a good indicator, and so is the wear on the tyres, but note that some crappy tyres last for ever, but when...

It has standard Chinese electrics, so you can use any battery you want when the original one expires. I'd chuck that monstrosity and get a downtube battery , which would give much better handling. It's not a bad bike apart from the crappy rim brakes. if the motor has the 6 screws for a disc, I'd...

Consider a road bike crankset, which are normally the lightest.

Who's going to fix it when it goes wrong? If you don't know about these things, buy from a local ebike shop or from an online retailer that has a proper system for doing repairs by mail order after the warranty has run out. Not many have that.

Nobody in the Tour de France uses a suspension seat-post and they're in the saddle all day. You can save quite a bit of weight by changing the crank-set and bottom bracket to a hollowtech type, then the rear cassette. Plenty of used ones on Ebay.