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I've never seen them on an ebike controller. The charge socket is normally either directly on the battery or the wires go directly to the battery connector without worrying the controller. Where is your charge socket and where do the wires go?

About 145mm is fairly normal for a cassette motor. It's probably closer to 142mm. Some are a bit narrower, but that won't give you any problems when installing, nor riding.

They're standard, but there are several standard types with weird names, like integrated, semi-integrated or external, and your steerer tube can be threaded or threadless. I would guess that your steerer is not threaded, as you're cutting it. threadless headsets are also called Ahead. Finally...

I've done a few with a hacksaw. Level-off with a file.

Just to create some balance, these stands are great for normal bikes, but can be a pain in the backside for electric ones. They can hold the bike OK if it has a centre of mass in line with the clamping position, but bikes that are front-heavy or rear heavy can't be held horozontal. The clamps...

You replace your existing motor cotroller. In principle, they all controllers have the same main functions, use the same sensors and have the same wires. in practices, you have to do a bit of wiring and soldering to use a replacement controller. We can give more specific advice if you show us...

It's almost impossible to damage the motor in normal use. It should be good for 30,000 miles. Motors make loud gear-type noises at low speed and high power when you have a crappy controller. What you're feeling/hearing is the commutation pulses, which you can discern at low speed. Once the...

Your is from Shengyi, but all those sort of motors are similar, if not exact clones. http://www.syimotor.com/productDe_20.html They're very easy to open - just remove the nuts from the axle, then the 6 screws in the side-plate and pull the side-plate off. From there, you'll see what's wrong if...

It will be an issue. Thinking is OK for how one would like the world to be, but OP has to deal with facts.

The main problem is the width. You'd have to stretch your frame a bit to get it in, then the rim will be off-set to one side, so you need to dish the wheel. If it's not already dished at all, you have a chance, but if it is already dished, the additional dish would be too much to get a decent...

Repair is not difficult, regardless of the cause. The first thing you need to check is whether there are connectors at the controller end of the motor cable. Follow the cable until you come to the controller. You'll probably have to unscrew something to get at it. Take some phptos of what you...

The controller's 5v regulator can supply 100 mA. the hall,sensors, throttle, speed sensor and PAS take about 50 mA, which doesn't leave enough to cgarge your phone. You should use a proper 36v USB module. something like this...

Let us know how you get on.

Have you tried vertical on the back wheel and at least one hand on the handlebars where you can control it with the brake?

You forgot to answer the question!

It could do. It wouldn't be caused by the low voltage, but whatever is causing it, like a bad connection, might show itself more at low voltage. The same could apply to a dodgy mosfet.

There's nothing to wear out in a throttle. It works by magnetism.

You most likely can't run that controller at 36v. On this forum, most of us are in UK.

There's a fair chance that the noise is not caused in the motor even though the motor is noisy, so don't be in a hurry to replace the motor. The motor controller sends timed pulses of energy to the motor. If the timing is off, you can get anyhing from rough running to an extreme rasping noise...

That's not what I mean. Were you riding the bike when it happened? Did you crash it? Did the cat creep into your garage and chew the cable when it was sat there overnight? Do you have a vicious neighbour that came in with a 100v battery and zapped it out of spite? How and when did you first...