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I would say that it's defaulting to 24v operation rather than 36v. There are two things you can try: First, disconnect the battery from the controller and short out the two wires on the controller side to discharge the capacitor, then reconnect everything and see if it works. Second, reset the...

A lot. My mate was 120kg and had a hub-motor running up to 30 amps. he didn't have any problem with his spokes after I rebuilt his crappy chinese wheel with 14g spokes rather than the original 13g. Mild steel has a tbreaking strain of about 100kg for a 2mm wire, which is 14g. So a wheel should...

Anecdotally, stronger wheels break more spokes than lighter ones. About 10 years ago, there were a lot of poorly built Chinese motor wheels and others with very suspect spokes. When they found all the spokes were breaking, they tried to fix it with thicker spokes (12g), but that made it even...

The voltage should be the same because the thin red wire going to the LCD is a spur directly from the thick red wire. It's completely independent of the controller, as is the LCD. OK, so you've eliminated inrush as being the cause, but you need to measure the voltage of the battery wire when...

You have to understand how internet searches work. Clever people know how to manipulate the algorithms to bring their stuff to the top of the searches. There's a whole paid structure behind it. Some companies put more money into marketing than they do into the development of the bike or their...

Q128c from BMSBattery. A Bafang SWX02C is also good,, but the Q128c climbs a bit better due to its higher internal reduction ratio. My motor has been completely reliable over 6 years and 6000 miles even though it's spent a lot of time encrusted in salt, like it is now.

Those tests wouldn't be relevant. There will be 5 times the force on it when fitted to an ebike, so strength and robustness become important issues, but the main consideration is cost, especially the rear cassette. People on this forum claim to have worn out their rear cassettes in just a few...

It's only strange if you don't know the history. Recently we have had a load of newly joined members with a thread more or less identical to yours mentioning the same bikes, which are all pretty unusual, not the sort of thing you'd find in your local ebike shop. I would be interested to know how...

The main battery is probably switching off as soon as it's connected to the controller because the inrush current into the capacitor is tripping it. You can confirm that with a voltmeter on the connection between the battery and the controller. Disconnect the battery wires from the controller...

We like it when the stories have a happy ending!

I don't think so, but that's not at all clear what you mean. Draw a picture. From the switch, one wire would go to the battery positive and the other to the ignition wire so that you can switch the power on and off to the ignition wire. You don't need a switch if you have a switch on your...

Have a look at the battery contacts in the folding mechanism. Sometimes the prongs get bent, so they don't make good contact. You could also check that the contact surfaces are clean. If that doesn't solve it, remove the panel in the fold on the rear side, behind which the controller sits with...

At any voltage, torque is proportional to current - more or less, so if you want more torque, you get a system that can supply and handle the current. 15 amps at 36v is enough for most people, especially if you have the 15.5mph limit. 20 amps is better for heavy people that have moderate hills...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-Multimeter-Tester-Voltmeter-Ammeter-AC-DC-OHM-Current-Circuit-Buzzer/383769479521?hash=item595a718961%3Ag%3AdYYAAOSwQd9fi2f%7E&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=1000 What were the circumstances when it stopped working? Was it OK when you took it into Halfords?

Not bad for £5000 compared with alternatives. I'd like to see it do well, but it's a bit niche, and I can see prices climbing when it goes on sale through dealers.

The KT controller will be much better than the crappy one that came with the motor as long as you fit a pedal sensor.

You can replace cables with continuous ones and re-route them around the motor. If there are brake hoses there, you have to disconnect from the caliper to reroute them. That's not the biggest obstacle. When you look for a donor bike, all the things that make a non-electric bike good aren't so...

It's very rare for controllers to give problems unless you misconnect something. Show some photos of what you've done. If you've connected the ignition wire correctly, you should be able to measure 5V between the red and black throttle, PAS or hall wires.

It's a very easy bike to convert, but you need to check the space for the battery in the frame triangle, which is the best place to fit it.. You can get a a rear motor kit (recommended) from Yosepower on Ebay or from Woosh. If none of the standard common batteries fit, you can get her small...

Both versions look pretty good value. As said, the only problem is when it will be delivered. These sort of things can go on forever. The last thing I ordered from a crowd funding scheme was supposed to be delivered in 3 months, but actually took 18 months. The Swytch kit had delays at start...