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It appears normal to me, other wise no point in having the switch if it doesn't do anything. My batteries with no switch show the SOC voltage at the discharge all the time, the one with a switch don't. It is only when the switch is on do they show the SOC voltage, the switch on mine simply...

The Hall sensor must have failed as that and the wiring is all there is too them plus the magnet for the signal to work.

When I get around to my next battery build The BAK 1850cnp 25a cell at £2.15 has peaked my interest and according to Mooch on ECF it is a damn good alternative to the Sam 25R and performance wise is near perfect match. Also the Sinowatt 20a cell at £1.70 it again is a good alternative to the Sam...

The two piece PAS sensor are all I use, never yet had one fail on me. Yes they are all three wires so will work if wired up correctly.

I bought some cheap battery alarms for bikes on Aliexp, they were about £2 or £3 each and use a PP9. It bolts to the seat tube and is very visible and gives off a 120db alarm if the bike is tampered with, maybe enough to scare a toerag off but also if I'm in earshot I can be alerted. If the shop...

I would need to know that the same can't happen again, next time it could end up as a fire when shorted like that. I would take safety first over the warranty issue knowing that the fire risk has gone away. The wear is right thru the can to the inner can. Where the rubbing has occurred, I...

The key must be wired to switch and turns the BMS on/off, that's why you get a low reading when off and 28v for a 24v nominal battery when on. When charging one should have the key on so the BMS is switched on properly. I have BMS with push button switch and they do the same. If switch is off...

The inner part grips the BB axle so should rotate, however the outer body needs to remain stationary. One could try using a sealant carefully to stick it to the BB, however unless clean from grease grime may not work very well. A new one is likely best option.

One has to first read up the on the specs of the battery cell used then one can make a decision.

Chains are can be cut and offer mediocre security unless they are heavy duty with thicker then 16/18mm links. The Onguard are one of the better locks, they will resist a portable disc cutter for up to 2 mins. This might give some you some ideas of how secure D locks are as they are regarded as...

Approx. 30% more range. In low assist mode one could see over 60 miles, depending on your wh per mile usage. Only you will know your wh per mile use by dividing the battery wh by the miles ridden to lvc. The cell specs have a usable voltage range of 3.2v to 4.2v so taking a battery down to...

If going with the same battery and having opened the old one, I would open the new one and introduce an insulator between where the rubbing has occurred.

Often if the battery/controller are an integrated unit with controller locate at the base of the battery receiver, the trunk cable often is routed internally through the frame. The cable has a tight bend at the bottom as it exits the controller to enter the frame, it is here that one or more...

E010 is Comm's between controller and display so after changing everything the only other item is Bus/trunk cable connecting both items. Remove the cable and continuity check each wire for a broken wire. Without testing items it gets very expensive to change everything so in the end one is...

Via the contacts in the holder or at the connection where the White connector goes to. Whether they are 5v or 12v you have to test, auto stuff like that is usually 12v.

That white box thing isn't a digital multimeter, I have never seen one in the flesh or used one so no idea what it can test for. All I know is it can't tell one the status of a mosfet with a resistance reading.

Use a strip wire household wire lock to connect the nine wire colours to each other. The one simply uses the screw for the probes to contact. Use this link for testing process. HallSensorTesting.cdr (ebikes.ca)

Looks like a 501 5w type bulb to me, so look for a 501 bulb holder. What's the voltage supply ?

Show a pic of the motor/phase connection at the controller.

Did you carry out the test for motor hall failure as a failed hall will stop the motor working.